jackbombay

Hmm, so open up the dizzy and look for anything blatantly wrong?

So I have a couple fault codes, 11 and 13, which are no referance pulse and no position pulse, the car still runs ok though. From reading around it seems like those codes are usually accompanied by poor running. Can the crank angle sensor go bad enough to throw a code, but not bad enough to notably affect how well the engine runs? The Check Engine light came on a few days ago so I have not filled up since it came on to know how the MPGs are.

DOJ= Double Offset Joint DOJs drive the rear wheels.

Normally I can't see where an loyale would ever have rotor warping issues, but this pass really is brutal, 3 miles of %10 grade on both sides. I'll start with making sure the rears are working well along with new brembo rotors. New cylinders for the back should be pretty cheap so I'll swap them out while I'm in there along with a full bleed/flush.

http://www.car-part.com is an online catalog of junk yards and you can find just about anything there, I'm not yet sure which bits and pieces you need for the rear disc swap, but I'd be surprised if you couldn't find them at car-part.com

That must be why the rear pads last so long I'll look into the rear disc swap, a search certainly brings up plenty of threads on the topic! Is it illegal if the chute blocks the tail lights? I'll go with some brembos.

The brakes are in good shape with the exception of the warped rotors, they were turned a few months back and they warped again pretty soon, which I was pretty much expecting. I've never been a fan of turning because of the resulting variable metal thickness, but it was cheap. Yea, its a 90 HP economy car, but the pass in question ruins car for a living. With a full tank of gas and a few people in the car 2nd gear will redline downhill if you don't use the brakes, and there is 3 miles of hill on both sides of the pass. I realize that theres no chance that nobody else here is in the same situation, but though maybe some of the turbo guys had tried the slotted rotors, or was hoping to find out if people typically have good luck with the brembos, which is what I'll probably go with at this point...

You talk s#!t about my driving based on, my post count? And I'm supposed to be grateful for your s#!t talking because why?

Cute, especially coming from a flatlander.

I did search for "front AND disc" and "front AND rotor" and did not find that, but it doesn't look like he ended up selling them. I don't necessarily want slotted unless it prevents warping better. I'm not sure what is on the car now, but probably not brembos. Have you guys typically had god luck with brembos?

I found Brembo rotors at tire rack for $74, http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Loyale&autoYear=1991&autoModClar=4wd and I found some drilled slotted rotors for $99 with a lifetime warranty, I assume that covers warping, http://stores.brakeplanet.com/Items/nl037773?&caSKU=nl037773&caTitle=91-94%20SUBARU%20LOYALE%20F%20Slotted%20%26%20Drilled%20Brake%20Rotors I live near a HUGE, STEEP pass that has a habit of warping rotors. Does anyone have experience with slotted/grooved/drilled rotors? Were they more resistant to warping? I've had good luck with ATE power rotors in the past, but they are not made for my 91 loyale :-/ Thoughts?

Replacement throttle body is in. Car runs smoother, and notably more power at low RPM and or low throttle settings, also it had an odd hesitation before that is gone. I also cleaned the MAF off with brake cleaner. And I cleared the codes, I'll check in a few days to see if either/both of them come back. Thanks for the help guys!

The retension was free...

I had a T-belt skip when it was 18k miles old, it had not been retensioned at 10k as is recommended. The local subaru mechanic retensions them at 10k, fwiw he's be wrenching on subarus for 25+ years now.

This spring I plan on a big service, brake fluid flush, belts, trans oil, rear end oil, coolant flush, and air/fuel filters, glue the door seals back on too LOL

I've never cleaned the MAF, Ill do that, cheap and quick. Fuel and air filters are almost at 30k miles, I typically change air/fuel filters cap and rotor and spark plugs at 40k mile intervals.

Cool, thanks for the link

No Its a Borg Warner . I drove 4 miles and the light was just on steady, but when I got home (after 4 more miles of driving) the light was blinking randomly. It is ~30* F here the car wasn't quite fully warmed up after the first 4 miles of driving. I also hooked up my voltmeter to the O2 sensor, the voltage fluctuated as typical between .1 and .9 I drove about 1/4 mile before the voltage started behving like that/as it should. Thats good, I'll erase the codes (just plug the green connectors together while the engine is running?) and see if the O2 code comes back. Hmm, pretty cheap, but as the current one seems ok I'll swap the injector/throttle body first and see how it does. Thanks for the info on the light/Os sensor!

The local soob mechanic is going to loan me a complete throttle body with injector so I can swap it out with my likely bad one and see what happens. HE didn't have the gasket in stock so I will have to wait till tomorrow to swap it. He said the SPFI injectors rarely go bad so leaving the used one on if it fixes the problem would be fine.

Coolant temps? Or EGT?

Yea. I don't think the difference is that big though, at highway speeds you are running a couple of pounds of boost or so? So the air isn't all that hot coming out of the turbo compressor. An IC could lower the exhaust temp by 50, maybe 100 degrees at cruising speed, hard to say for sure. Some before and after exhaust temp reading would be interesting, but a pyrometer isn't all that cheap. Driggs, 50 miles east of rexburg , I hadn't noticed you were in Id as well!

Thanks for taking a look for the 6/66 code! All 6 blinks are the same length :-/ I did find a thread about the "test mode connector" , went and plugged it together (the clearish plastic connector under the hood against the corner of the firewall on the drivers side) and I got 2 codes, 32 and 14, according tot he manual I downloaded, that is, "Abnormal O2 sensor signal" and "Abnormal fuel injector output". Now I have some more stuff to search about.

I'm not particularly familiar with the older soob turbos engines, but I don't consider an intercooler to be an "engine life extender". ICs are almost always used to lower IAT temps so more boost can be run without running into detonation issues. If you aren't looking for more power I'd skip the hassle and expense of an IC.

It blinks 6 times, pauses then 6 more, pauses then six more, etc... The manual I downloaded only has trouble codes for the O2 light blinking