derburger

I was reading the codes wrong, the code I was getting was "22" Pressure or vacuum switches, or 21, seized mass airflow meter flap. The car did make a 200 mile highway trip fine, it had some stuttering under acceleration, it previously idled at 1200 RPM and needed a little gas on startup to stay running. I cleaned the idle air control and replaced the PCV valve with a subaru replacement. When it was running, it got harder to start as the temps dropped... cranked and cranked before finally firing. Where should I try to spray (a small amount of) carb cleaner, to see if the engine is getting spark? I should also try to clean the MAF flaps before having to drain the gas tank. Any tips? Again, could be anything. What would be the best way to drain the gas from the tank? From near the fuel pump under the car, or from the fuel filter hose in the engine bay? How about how to wire the pump to run so I can drain the bad gas? Thanks! The car's MAF

Please bear with me, since the car I'm well versed in is a 30 year old MB diesel... Ok, I'll check the rotor to see if it spins well. I'll remove the timing belt covers and look for 22 mm on the crank bolt? Where is this green test connector? On my XT there are green connectors in the trunk that when connected flash ECU codes, at least I think that's what they do, they make a blinky light. Is the "test mode" connector in the wire bundle near the wiper motor in the engine bay? I cleaned all grounds I could see in the engine bay... The engine ground, the one on a manifold bolt, both grounds on the shock towers. I'll try to find the other ones you mentioned. So what would be the procedure be to set the base timing? I haven't found specifics searching and I don't think my chilton manual is that great. I would remove the distributor from the bolts on the bottom of it (with the key in START and green plugs connected?) and look for marks to line up under it? If that makes any sense.

I'm having trouble starting my 1986 XT GL-10 (EA82T, MPFI) and I'm running out of options. Backstory: I bought the car, it had been sitting for a while as a project car. It ran and drove fine, but I now think there's bad gas in the tank. It did make a 200 mile trip to school, but is now sitting in the lot and won't restart. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, charged battery, and I still have no start. I found that the ECU was held on by 2 bolts, which it's supposed to be held on (and grounded?) by three. I found a nut to put on the assembly, and now the ECU is held on by all three bolts. Is this how the ECU is grounded? I've checked and cleaned all grounds, cleaned the coolant temp sensor, etc. The car just cranks, it has caught a few times but dies shortly thereafter. Now for the no start symptoms: 1. I have spark from the ignition coil, and spark from the wires. Is it possible to put on the disty cap wrong, or did I put the wires on wrong? I can take a picture of the wires. 2. When I cranked the car to try to start it, the motor caught a few times, but when It caught I stopped cranking and the motor died. 3. The gauge still shows over 1/2 tank of gas left. When I changed the fuel filter, the fuel that came out clear, then it looked like vegetable juice. I went to the gas station and got 2 gallons of gas in a can and put that in the tank, changed filter. Lines are pressurized, but still no start. So I'm dealing with old or rusty gas. I can't drain the tank in the school parking lot, I would need to get it started and drive home to drain the tank. At home I have all the lift/specialty tools I need, but I only brought basic hand tools to school... 4. The fuel pump works, pressurizes the lines, etc. Fuel is going to the injectors. 5. Maybe the rotor I have in the car is too short to make contact with the cap? Rockauto shows 2 sizes of rotors, one with a shorter neck, one with a longer neck. Is there a difference between the two? The rotor I pulled from the car looked the same as the one I put in. It has a shorter neck than this one. Are there two different rotors and I bought the wrong one? 6. Ground issue? I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay. I found that the ECU was held on by 2 bolts instead of 3. Maybe the ECU isn't grounded well? 7. Am I flooding the engine with gas with all the cranking, and that's why it won't start? 8. The ECU gives code 12, which is "starter switch off" I don't know where to go from here. I've owned diesel MB's but no gas cars. Maybe the spark going to the wires is weak, maybe I put the wires on wrong, the 3/4th full tank is clogged, massive vacuum leak, rotor is bad, I don't know. I'll try spraying carb cleaner in the intake to see if it's getting spark. What should I try next?

Hello, I'm new to the Subaru world. I bought a 1986 Subaru XT GL-10 for use as a daily driver, so my other car (MBZ 300cd) can be a garage queen. This subaru is much cheaper to run and insure, and I really like it so far. About the car: It's the wedgey XT, with a 82A MPFI Turbo, pushbutton 4wd, Digi-Dash, 5 speed manual trans, 13' aftermarket Enkei wheels, stock cassette stereo with upgraded speakers. It was a project car that came from California, very little corrosion(I slapped some POR 15 on to stop what is there) It has an ameteur repaint in a non-factory color, it doesn't have a clear coat but it looks decent. It runs and drives nice, I took it on a 200 mile trip to school with no problems. The car has 95k miles with a 50k used engine installed at a shop(A P.O blew up the engine, cracked head probably). A screw on the dist. cap was loose, so the rotor chewed up the cap, which made the car run rough. I've done an oil change, seafoam, replace PCV valve, next is plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter when parts arrive today. Will do thermostat change, replace hoses and coolant flush in a few days too. Everything works including A/C. So I drove the car to school, tried to start the car in negative degrees and killed the battery . It still had the chewed up rotor and cap on, with a tuneup and fresh battery it should start up later today, I cleaned the idle air control valve, all grounds, coolant temp sensor, etc, it's not firing any codes so it was probably the distributor and cold weather that made it hard to start. Also, the car came with a trunkload and backseat full of parts, 3 alternators, ecu's MAF's, intake, spare interior parts, catalytic converter, fuel injectors, anything you could think of. The P.O had another XT that someone smacked into a telephone pole, and he pulled whatever he could from it. Anyways, I bought the car for $750, pretty decent price, needed tires and some work of course. Here are some pictures to enjoy! Chewy rotor, see plastic covering up the contacts