BigAl

:(:(:(

She is looking awesome! So excited to see her progress.

Holy ************!

Also, didn't know she would do 75. Impressive.

Wow, glad you were able to get stopped safely. Never heard of that valve. Scary it just melted. Glad to hear everything else ran ok, she always felt solid. Really exited to see your progress on her.

Wow, that is a seriously clean wagon. Very nice!

I may end up going that way if cost gets too out of hand. I just scheduled it one more visit with a Subaru specialist so I can be sure that is the problem before I pull the trigger. Thanks for the advice.

CO isn't terribly concerned with how everything looks under the hood as long as it runs clean. So not too worried about that piece of it.

Well my poor little 85 hatch seems to be getting sicker by the day. In my most recent attempt at emissions it failed on CO by over double the limit. It has had a full tune up and a new cat installed, so being short on ideas I took it to a shop with a 5 gas analyzer to give me some ideas. They spent close to 2 hours playing with A/F mixture and couldn't get it anywhere near a passing number. Their conclusion was the carb is in need of a full rebuild or I am having problems with the air injection and they wanted a ridiculous amount of money to look any farther. I admittedly suck with carbs, but am trying to learn. So my question is.. Is it worth getting a rebuild kit for the factory carb or should I go with the Weber? How difficult is the Weber to install / tune / work on versus the stock single barrel? Also, this car is in CO, so it would need to be jetted for high altitude. Would the Weber need to be re-jetted and if so, how difficult is it to find and swap the jets? Lastly, which Weber (model #) do I need for an EA82? I really don't want to sell her, but if I cant get this figured out in a way that makes some sort of financial sense I may have to go that way. Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks in advance for any help guys.

That is ridiculous. :-\ Did it come with all those dents or were some of them from beating the UPS driver with it ?

Looks fantastic.

Subscribed. Love these old wagons.

Well she saw a few highway runs before the temp tags expired, but no good long runs. Engine seems to be in good shape, despite the rich condition, so I will give it a switch to premium and see how it does. Thanks

Correction to my original information as well. It is the CO that is reading too high, not the HC. On a side note, it occurs to me there is still some 44K in this tank of gas. Would the 44K burning off excess carbon add anything to the CO readings ?

After looking at the graph, it looks like the high CO readings are across the board as far as speed is concerned. Also, any advice on changing the PCV valve? I have never seen something so hopelessly buried under hoses and hardlines. After 20 minutes all I have accomplished is a slice in my palm and removing the attached hose. I don't seem to have a tool to get at it. Thanks again

So over the last couple months have been playing with my new hatch to try and get her through emissions. I am getting close but something is eluding me. The car is an 85 GL hatch 5 speed 4WD (EA81). Done so far: * General Tune Up (plugs, wires, corrected timing, oil change, air filter) * Ensured proper float level on carb and adjusted idle speed * Replaced catalytic converter She is so damn close to passing, and the only thing I am over on is CO. The reading is 29.0 out of 20.0 allowed. This makes sense as high CO output is an indication of unburned fuel, which would also explain the intermittent after fires i get in between shifts Strangely though, the service manual states that after fires are mainly caused by vacuum leaks and NOT by incorrect air / fuel mixtures. So I spent about an hour and a half hunting down vacuum lines and reconnecting a few orphans that had come loose or fallen off. My question is, could those 2 small disconnected vacuum lines have been my problem or do I need to be looking at adjusting my air / fuel setting on the carb? Thanks in advance

Been following this project for awhile now but never got around to posting. Absoultely amazing work. Making me want to go home and start playing with the hatch again

Just found this thread and all I can say is .. WOW Thanks for the fantastic pictures and updates. I'm hooked

Motor is a hydraulic lifter EA81 with 211k. Not sure if any rebuild or refresh work has ever been done on it. Watched carefully on the drive home and it looks like I am right on with what GD is saying. Sitting right at 25 PSI at idle when hot and resting at 70 PSI during cruising speeds (55-60mph). Guess I was just being paranoid. I will still get a mechanical to check it out just in case. Thanks again guys

Thanks GD I actually did things backwards and searched after making the post, seems the high readings and faulty sensors are all to common on these engines. Looks like I need to hook up a mechanical and verify what I am seeing. Any idea on what a 'Safe' range should be when its up to temp?

I realize this is an old thread, but glad I found it. I just ran into this on my 84.5 Hatch. Didnt start reading high until after my oil change, I was really freaking out, the factory guage would be pegged at 75for a good 10 minutes, but she runs like a champ and no nasty sounds. Used a good filter and Mobil1 10w-30 right at the perfect level. Glad to know this isn't abnormal. I know it's a few years late... .but thanks guys

The car is an 84.5 EA81 hatch, it came equipped with a factory oil pressure guage. So does it sound like I have a clog in the pickup or in my oil channels?

So finally got around to doing an oil change on the hatchback and am seeing some weird symptoms. Before the oil change, the oil pressure sat around 50-60 PSI at cold idle and dropped near 30 at warm idle. When up to temp it would run 60-70 at highway speeds (2800-3500 RPM). After the oil change, it sits well over 70 PSI at cold idle, and even after allowing the engine to warm for 6-7 minutes, it does not drop. If I try to drive it like this, I can not take it above 1200 RPM or the pressure spikes past the top of the gauge (75 PSI+). After a few minutes of gentle driving, the oil pressure will drop down near 50 at idle, and will sit right at 70-75 PSI under highway load, but it will not return to its original levels. I have triple checked the oil level and it is perfectly at the full mark, not over, not under. I used a NAPA Gold oil filter and Mobil 1 10w-30. According to the manual, 10w-30 is a recommended viscosity, so I don't think the oil is to thick. Also, I figured that even if I had used an incorrect viscosity, the pressure would come down after allowing the engine to warm, so I dont think that is my problem. Any ideas? Is this engine really that sensitive to synthetics? Any help would be appreciated, continuing to drive it at these high pressure levels is making me uneasy. Thanks in advance guys (and gals) Al

Very nice! Car is lookin good.

Congrats!!