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BigAl

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Everything posted by BigAl

  1. I actually haven't checked that yet, I will get a voltmeter on it this week next time I am at the shop. Thanks for the help.
  2. Ok, got the codes pulled, thanks again for the help. Got 2 codes off of it. 24 - Idle Air Control Valve 34 - EGR Solenoid The EGR solenoid is only $50 online, and I can have my shop get them cheaper, not a big deal. But the average going price online for the IACV is $300 Cheapest I have found was eBay at $150. Anyone know of a good way to test or rebuild this guy or maybe a cheaper place to get them? I only paid $300 for the whole car, I am gonna have a hard time throwing down the same for a friggin valve. Thanks again guys. Alex
  3. Wow, that is exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
  4. Well my little $300 GL 4x4 project beater is almost road worthy, but I need to get the CEL taken care of before she will pass emissions. The list of work I have done is extensive, but the basics on the engine work are air filter, oil change, plugs, fuel filter, PCV, plug wires, 44K fuel treatment, coolant flush, temp sensor and drive belts. So she runs pretty damn good now aside from the low idle (400-500 RPM) and the god awful TOD, but I still have the CEL keeping me from getting through emissions. My local Suby gurus (Super Rupair in Boulder,CO) told me that I could check this by connecting the "d-check" connectors under the dash, driving until the CEL comes on, then pull over and check for a blinking light under the dash on the drivers side. Only problem is, they didnt have a list for what any of the blinking sequences mean. So now my question is, does this sound accurate, and does anyone have a list of what these blinks mean? Thanks in advance.
  5. I actually ran Seafoam in the oil before the oil change and it certainly cleared out alot of crap. I haven't run it in the intake or the fuel though, but only becuase I currently have BG 44K in the tank.
  6. Ahh ok, I figured that might be the case. Well I will probably do the full timing belt service in a little while anyways, so I will just live with a little noise for now and just tackle the lifters while I am in there. Any thoughts or opinions either way on the Restore? My biggest fear is it plugging things up, but some people swear by it. Any experience with this stuff ?
  7. Ahh, that makes perfect sense. I actually had a similar issue with my old turbo Leggy. Those little 'adjusters' were surprisingly easy to get to, I just bled the stuck/ sticky ones in some fresh oil and it quited her right down. I can't believe I didn't think of that. Thank you !!
  8. Well I have never had an official intro thread as my Suby was, like many I'm sure, bought as a project and I have just been in the process of rebuilding. Having bought her ('88 GL, SPFI, D/R, 5 spd) for $300 she needed some love. The motor has had a full tune up (PCV, plugs, wires, oil and filter, fuel filter, etc..) and as expected at 214K she has the 'Tick Of Death'. I have had a few Suby's over the years and understand what the TOD should sound like, but even after her full tune this tick is pretty violent. After my mechanic and I scoped the car, we found it is coming from the drivers bank, front cylinder (sorry not sure about the numbering). It is to the point where I am convinced I have a valve bent or if luck holds out, just stuck. I am sourcing a 'new' EA82 in preperation already, but thought I would throw this question out there. My mechanic, who has been in the game 30 years, and is one of maybe four people I trust anywhere to touch my cars, mentioned that he has had good luck in the past with Restore Oil Additive freeing up frozen or sticking valves. I am honestly skeptical myself of additives, but I trust this guy unquestionably with my cars. After reading a few reviews on the stuff, people are pretty mixed on their opinions. My main concern is the teflon particles, as people say while they may help some parts of the engine, it can clog/damage others. Basically I know this engine will need replaced in the near future, but was hoping this might get it a few more months down the road and a little more quietly. Sorry to be long winded, just didn't want to leave anything out. Thanks in advance for any advice / opinions. EDIT: On a strange side note, the tick comes and goes. Some days she runs like brand new and hums away like a little sewing machine, other days the tick is almost deafening, which is why I have been thinking maybe the valve is just sticky. But one of the first things I did when I bought her was replace the y-pipe, as the drivers bank had a large hole in it less than an inch from the block. After replacing the manifold the tick remained, and I figured maybe the severe lack of back pressure on an engine with that many miles could have hurt the valves, but again, the noise comes and goes, so not sure what to think. Thanks guys. Alex
  9. Well I haven't gotten around to an intro thread yet but have been lurking around soaking things in. New to the EA82, but by no means a noob to Subes. Long story short, I was finishing some tinkering on my '88 GL (SPFI, 5 spd, D/R, no A/C) and had a friend fire it up while I was still under the hood. When it was cranking I noticed a spurt of coolant that shot up about 4-5 inches hitting the intake pipe. When she fired the coolant disappeared back into its little hole and never peeked up again the whole time the engine was running, so I can only assume this isn't a pressurized jacket. I have attached a pic for reference. This is consistent with every time i start the car, but again, it always settles back down when its running. So my question is, what is it and can i plug it ? The coolant it spits up collects by the front left plug and I don't want to have to clean it after every start. This picture is taken standing next to the passenger fender at the airbox looking towards the driver side. Thanks in advance.
  10. Also glad to see you didn't dump it after the crash. Welcome to the site, keep us posted on the progress.
  11. A good all weather one I have used before is Rustoleum bbq grill paint. Made to stand up to just about anything. Should be pretty easy to find at any hardware store
  12. Well the hard part is over, glad to see it running. Congrats
  13. Very nice start. Cool to see a local build too. I will have to come check this out when it starts getting a little warmer.
  14. Just found this thread and getting some excellent ideas. Good stuff everyone
  15. Just ordered a set of 500 fogs for my GL and was wondering how I was going to mount them. This looks excellent. If you ever decide to put a couple of these together for sale I would definately be interested. Also, what wheel / tire combo is that up front? Looks much better than the dinky little 13's.
  16. Thank you yet again! May be hitting you up this time next year Suberdave for more info on the EJ20 swap, unfortunately tax money is spoken for this year.
  17. What he said ^^. Well worth the time and effort.
  18. CCR is a great shop with some very cool guys, about 20 minutes from my house. But I hear ya on the prices. I grabbed my GL about 3 weeks ago for $300, so a $3k engine isnt terribly appealing.
  19. Very cool build. Subscribed, gotta see this thing in action
  20. That tool is awesome. Thank you for the link. Sorry to thread jack.
  21. Subscribed. Actually curious about this myself.
  22. Perfect, the y-pipe and muffler are the total losses on the GL, so as long as those work I should have everything I need. Thanks again
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