mikec03

My 02 started leaking at the head gasket at about 85k miles. I had the HG replaced at 92K miles. I think that you can count on the HG leaking at some point and the leak will get progressively worse. On the other hand, nothing else on the car has failed, and it rides great. I now have 115K miles. I wouldn't pay $4000. I think that the market is more like $3000.

Numbchec and Rampage have the right idea. I also have a 95 subaru. This is an old problem well known and discussed years ago on the subaru forums for the 90's subaru's. To summerize the previous posts, buy a high voltage solenoid [I got mine from advanced auto], mount it on the firewall near the starter, use the energize wire from the starter to energize the solenoid, and run a new wire from the battery/ to the solenoid/ then to the starter. It fixes the problem forever. The power wire and grounds to the starter don't need to be changed.

Bump. Surely someone has put the newer organic acid based antifreeze in their old subaru. I'm worried that it will peal off the scale and plug up the heater/radiator..

What be the problem with switching from the old green coolant which has the silicate/ phosphate etc to the newer acid based coolants, such as amsoil poly organic acid technology. The car is over 20 years old. Of course I would clean out the old coolant. I just wonder if anyone actually has done this. Of course, the mgfs say that the new coolant is compatible, etc.

I sympathize with the OP. It would be better for posters who is going to ignore the OP's request to start off with "Its impossible to find a quick strut for older subarus" which is really what the OP wants to know. Then it would be instructive if the poster would talk specifically about their own experience. Such as, " I live in Dayton and I had to go to 15 auto shops before I could find one who would assemble my strut. The one I found is on 15th st, etc" So many people recommend a "reputable shop" but don't give any details, I wonder if any of those shops actually exist anymore.

Thanks for the replies. I especially appreciate FerGloyale who corrected my understanding and also provided a link. And wonders of wonders, Harbor Freight accepted the print out of the link that FerGloyale provided, so I could buy the floor lift at a sale price. Thank you. So I put new pads on the front of my 2014 subaru. I'm still a little curious of where people put the jack stands, but in my case i use the pinch welds with a hard rubber insert on the jack stand as shown on the attached photo. It works great and is very stable. It doesn't do the pinch weld any harm.

I'm sorry that I didn't explain in my original post. My jack stands have hard rubber adaptors that I bought so that they fit the pinch points better then the scissor jack. The problem with the floor jack is that the cheap ones [less then $100] are designed for a lift to only 13 inches which is hardly enough, and there are questions on the internet if they actually can get that high and hold the height long enough to get a floor jack under the car. And anyway, in the case of using the floor jack on the front crossmember, where would the floor jacks be positioned? Is the position that I show the frame rail? While it's not totally relevant to this discussion, is everyone aware that the dealership is using the pinch points to lift the cars without special adaptors? Of course these are nearly new cars but still?

I would like to lift the 2014 from the jack point in the picture, and then put a Jack Stand under the pinch point. I need to lift 3 3/4 inches. Do you think that this lift point would support the car without deforming? The jack would be right on bolt head shown in picture. The photo is taken looking toward the front of the car.

You are very fortunate to get a code. Of course replace it immediately. I had very similar symptoms as you have on a 95 and it drove me crazy because I didn't get a code. After a half dozen stalls, I finally got the MAF code and was then able to solve the problem. I think this sort of failure is caused by an intermittent short in a solid state device.

I have a 251 engine in an 2002 so I'm familiar with the engine. If that engine had a MAF, it would be the first thing to replace, but it doesn't. First, you have tighten all the supply and ground wire connections Second, you should replace the ignition wires. Why didn't you do this already? OEM only. Third, I had a serious hesitation problem which took me months to figure out. Of course this is not the same as stalling. The cause turned out to be the upstream O2 sensor [which I changed after I changed everything else]. So I would replace this O2 sensor as a general principle. At that age of the car it's a no brainer anyway

I had a couple fail but not while the cars were running. They are easy to change so you might want to get a used one and put it in.

Can we assume that you are posting about your 2005 subaru? And did metal connection rust off or did the hose pop out of its ferrule?

In addition to ebay, car-parts.com is a great source of used parts. Posted for others reading this thread.

If you get the code, you have to change it. Just get a used one for $30.

It's tough to solve a hesitation problem without codes. I don't disagree with anything written above. However, if were me, I would do the following: 1. Replace the MAF with a used one. It's probably only $25. I have had a 90's subarus where the MAF was a problem. It caused random stalling but not exactly like the OP's. 2. Replace the upstream O2 sensor. It's about $60 for a new bosch one. Although, I never seemed to have a problem with the 90's, I did have a problem with an 2002 that the O2 sensor was the cause. Besides, at 200K, it should be replaced on general principles.