mikec03

There is really no alternatives. Just go to the junk/used equipment suppliers and buy a used one. Not too hard to install.

UPDATE I disconnected the power output from the alternator and the squeak disappeared. Just turning off the headlights didn't have much effect. But it's clearly the current draw from the alternator at start up that causes the squeak which is reassuring in that it's nothing really major. It may be that an OEM belt would grip better so that the alternator pulley wouldn't slip? It could be that I have a current leak that draws down the battery slightly so that the start up current is higher. I noticed that subaru changed the dimensions slightly on the 2.5 SOHC engines. They went with a 35.0 in [0.05 in longer] belt so that the alternator sits 1/2" higher and probably has 10% more belt gripping [because the belt wraps further around the pulley]. They had to modify the belt guard to to add an inch in height so that the alternator can sit higher then on the 2.2 engines. Thanks for the help.

952.2LX and mikaleda What cars are you looking at? From 1995 to at least 2002, the SOHC 2.2 and 2.5 legacy engines have NO idler pulley on the alternator/power steering belt! You can trust me on this. I have a 95. 97 and 02 and they are all the same. The idea of reducing the current draw on the alternator is good. I'll do one better. I'll disconnect the power lead from the alternator and see what happens. I will report back. PS. I have the belt over tight. But I can see that if the belt were longer, then the alternator pulley would be wrapped more then 80 degrees. I have the spec belt length but maybe there is something to a longer belt.

Probably a good idea to replace the harmonic balancer [ie crank pully]. It's the only thing left. And I'm familiar with the crank bolt pully issue. I use the 2'nd generation spec [130 ft-lb] and I mark the bolt vs the pulley to check to see if it starts to slip. There is no idler on the 95 subaru alternator/power steering pump belt. The alternator is jacked up to tension the belt.

I have a 95 legacy which seems to have a belt squeak on start up from the alternator/power steering belt. I know it's this belt because it goes away when I start it without the belt on. The squeak also goes away after its been warmed up by driving 5 miles or so. I've changed the alternator, power steering pump, and the belt. No change. Belt dressing doesn't have any effect. I know that the belt is tighter then on my 97 and 02 lagacys which don't squeak. I'm thinking something to do with the bearing on the crankshaft. I know this sounds bizzare, but I can't think of an alternative. Is this possible?

Thisis exactly what hppened to my 99 nissan villager. Without warning, the brakes were severely dimished. But I own a 95, 97 and 02 subaru, and so what about their brake lines? They don't look too good. Shouldn't the brake lines be ss?

The fact that the car bucks when you turn indicates torque bind. That means the plates in the transfer case are binding. Maybe if you change the transmission oil three times, it will go away. Maybe not. Search for the forums for torque bind to see other solutions [PS nothing worked for me]. If the FWD light isn't on when the fuse in installed, then it's 99% that the duty C solenoid is bad. Cost for replacemen at an Indy shop is $400, at least. If you replace the duty C solenoid, maybe it will fix the torque bind. Maybe not. If you don't do anything about the torque bind, then you may shear the "hub" which connects from the transmission to the transfer case. Then you will be in front wheel drive permanently. Not the worse thing in the world.

Sounds like the piston slap on my 97 2.2 legacy. I've put 30K on it since it started. +1 to the jipties.

You have a non interference engine so you have not damaged anything. There are many excellent DIY's on the timing belt installation, but in brief, the short lines [not arrows] on the cam and crank pulleys line up with marks just to the rear of the pulleys, at the 12:00 position.

First, the condition that's causing the "binding" is called torque bind and is extremely common on old subarus. The plates in the transfer case are not slipping like they are supposed to. As the previous posters have said, putting the FWD fuse in should have lighted a light on the dash, and put your car into front wheel drive. To reiterate, it does this by energizing the Duty C solinoid. Since your car still has torque bind and the dash light didn't light, your Duty C solinoid is most likely shot. I have priced the cost of replacing the Duty C solinoid and it costs about $300 at an indy shop. Be aware, however, after replacing the Duty C solinoid, you may still have the torque bind.

In reply to the original question, the o4+ engines are definately not without HG problems. Of course, opinions differ on the amount that will fail. In my opinion, the only hope for a total cure would be the 2010 and later legacies/OBs which have MLS gaskets and [probably] semi closed blocks. So, I will only be in the market for the 2010's and later. I have 3 subarus, the newest is 11 years old, and yes, i have replaced the HG's on the 02.

The 2010 engine has the updated MLS head gasket, so it would be one of the few used subarus that I would consider. The price seems very good to me. Check the CV joints [4] and the tie rod boots [2] to see if they are ripped. Unlikely at that milage, but possible. Also pull the spark plug wires to see if there is any oil on them. The valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets can start to leak at 60K. Replacement is a minor cost if you do it yourself, but can be a few hundred dollars if paying a stealership.

Yes for felpro valve cover gasket kit. On my 02, no problem for 35K

Thank you guy for all the replies. I have learned a lot. I think what happened is that my subaru was operated with torque bind and eventually the transfer clutch hub sheared off or other serious problem. So I think that the risk of taking the transfer clutch off wouldn't be worth it. The cost of replacing the hub part, for example, would be prohibitive. So I'll look around and maybe put in a whole transmission if I can find one that is a bargain. I finally did find the procedure to access the tcu trouble codes but I haven't done it yet since I won't have access to the car for a couple weeks. The procedure is different from the one that works for the 99?-04 cars.

Thanks Ivan. It gives me hope that the problem is excessive clearance in the clutch pack. I did find another post where the loss of the awd was caused by the shearing off of the "gear" that drives the clutch pack. This would be a disaster of course. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html The AT light flashing is the normal warning [maybe only on the late 90's] that the duty c solenoid is defective and it occurs with TCU plugged in. It flashes 16 times on start up. Both rear axles are good. So I don't know if I should go ahead and have someone pull off the transfer case and replace the duty c solenoid? If they find anything else wrong, it would be as cheaper to just put in a used transmission. Unfortunately, there is no guaranty that a used transmission is any good either. And there is no way to test them. As a confirmation, I see an old transmission on car parts that came from one of my old subarus, and it has torque bind!

UPDATE I unplugged the TCU and the AT defaulted to 3'rd gear. There is no torque bind. Both front and rear propeller shafts are in place. With the AT in neutral and costing downhill, the rear wheels turn the propeller shaft at 4.11 shaft/wheel ratio, indicating that the rear differential is OK. I'm getting the 16 flashes on the AT dashboard light. Conclusion: Obviously the duty C solenoid is bad. But are the discs bad too? If the solenoid failed in the usual manner, then I would have to be getting torque bind, even if the discs are bad. Yes? So is this a correct analysis: either the solenoid failed open, the tubing to the solenoid is leaking, the plate under the solenoid body is leaking at one of two gaskets, or a busted clutch drum.

Johnc Wow. How would anyone know that disconnecting the plugs to the TU would put the transmission into 3rd gear or reverse? This is incredible detailed knowledge. It's an automatic by the way. No problem with speedometer. Thanks, Ill try it and report. It will be a couple of weeks before I can get the car again.

I bought a 95 legacy with 200K miles last summer. Now with the snow, I realize that the all wheel drive is not working! It doesn't matter whether the FWD fuse is in or not. Other then the AWD, the car runs fine. I have a couple of ideas. 1. Someone disconnected the front propeller shaft. I checked that the rear shaft is still connected at the rear differential. It looks like it takes a lot of work to disconnect the front shaft so I wonder if anyone would bother. I can't get far enough under the car to see if its still connected to the transmission. 2. A gear broke in the transmission or in the rear differential. Does someone have any ideas as the cause. Has someone lost the AWG due to a gear being broke? Has someone disconnected the front shaft, presumably because of torque bind?

Thank you. It's more complicated then I thought. From your help and what I have been able to glean from the internet, the transmissions that will have the final drive ratio of 4.11 and will work are 95-99, 2.2, auto, NA, which are in some of the models of the legacy and impreza from those years. I see from other posts that even the transmission id doesn't have the final drive ratio.

Wiki shows the 4eat transmission being used in the legacy up to 04. Does this mean that I could get a 4eat up to 04 and it would bolt into my 95 legacy?

Thanks, that explains a lot. I didn't even know that there was a transmission control unit. If TCU needs a temperature above X to upshift to 4th gear, then its explained although I have never noticed a problem with my other 6 subarus.

Fairtax4me You misunderstood my point. The mechanical advantage occurs by comparing the distance from the edge of the flywheel to the housing, versus the length of the screwdriver outside the housing. The overall length of the screwdriver is 12". If the distance from the flywheel to the edge of the housing is 1", and I push against the turning force 1" from the end of the screw driver, then the mechanical advantage would be 10/1. In any case, the important point that I wanted everyone to know, is that one person can easily hold the flywheel while pushing the torque wrench at 140 ft-lb on the crank bolt with the other hand. In short, it doesn't take much strength at all. Also, as a matter of fact, I did change crank bolt because I was afraid that the original bolt wasn't high strength. But the old and new bolt were identically marked. And finally, I have seen posts of crank bolts loosening so it must have occurred at least a few times.

Holding the crank pulley with a tool is of course the best way to tighten the crank bolt. However, I easily held the motor with a 8" shank, 3/8" sq, screw driver inserted into the flywheel inspection hole. There are slots in the flywheel, at least for the 95-99 cars, which you can position the screwdriver. The mechanical advantage is maybe 7/1, the flywheel is about 1' radius, so it only takes 20 lb force to hold the engine rotation against the 140 ft-lb torque.

I have an auto 95 that I bought this summer which is is not upshifting to 4th when cold and when accelerating to 60+ on the expressway. During the summer, it upshifted fine at 3500 rpm and it will upshift after driving it awhile. I checked the search function and not much help. I drained/changed atf twice after I bought it so it's in pretty good condition. Car has 208K miles. Not that it probably help, but what causes it to upshift. One person says its the throttle position sensor and another says a temperature probe?

+1 that is a good buy especially with the 2.2 engine. As mentioned earlier, look at the cross member that is above the rear wheels. It's about 10" wide or so. On mine, you could stick your hand though it so I had to junk the car. When you repair the rust, cut out a lot of the metal. At least 1" beyond the rust and maybe more. You have to get to solid sheet metal. I use fiberglass to cover holes , then bando, and paint. Auto touch up is the cheapest place that I could find to match the color. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/year.aspx