mikec03

Update: Thanks for all the help. I believe my main problem was that the ATF was very old and foaming. Consequently, it covered the dip stick no matter how much fluid was in the transmission. So I drained the again and added new ATF. Finally it stopped foaming. Also once I realized the transmission was a 4eat, I just added 4qt of new ATF. I can see the level now although it's difficult. I concur that the proper amount to add for the 4eat is likely 4.25 qt but I wanted to be sure I was less then overfill.

Update: I put 4.5 qt back in. The dipstick shows overfilled with some air bubbles even when cold. It seems unlikely that the 2.5 l transmissions [2002 auto] would only drain out 3 qts or so. But if I can believe the dip stick, that would have to be the situation. That would also mean that one would have to drain and refill 5x times to get a good replacement of the ATF!

Update: I could only drain out 4.2 qt. So the transmission was not overfilled. I failed to mention that I could see bubbles on the dip stick! So does this mean that it was underfilled? Good suggestion to check the level cold [ or ambient]. On my other subaru [2.2 l], I can see the level when cold better then when hot. But on the 2.5 l., before I drained it I could not see a level even cold. Can anyone answer the original question. How much is normally drained from a 2.5 l transmission?

It's really hard to read the ATF level indicator and I think that a mechanic may have overfilled it. It sure looks high. When the 2.5 l. engine transmission is drained, how much fluid is normally recovered? I know on the 2.2 l engine, you can normally drain 4.5 qt. But the 2.2 l has a capacity of 8.3 qt and the 2.5 l has a capacity of 9.8 qt. I use the amount drained as an indication of how much to add back. In this case I want to use the amount drained as an indication that it was overfilled. If the proportion is the same, I should drain 5.5 qt.

Both tie rod boots [rack and pinion, not cv] are ripped on my 95 subaru. One stealership says $350 if the tie rods are ok and the $575 if not. Second says $550, period. I know that it needs alignment afterwards but this still seems high. Whats a price that people have paid?

Thanks H-S You post gave me an idea. When I'm ready to exit the subaru, I move my left foot back, simultaneously with opening the door, and then pick up my leg. 99% of people must do this. But one could get into the habit of picking up their leg as they open the door and bring their foot close to the hood release. I'll bet that's why subaru redesigned hood release after 2000. Oh, and my son is a klutz, but what can we do about the younger generation!

Bump. Someone must have had or heard about this problem too!

My son says that he is occasionally accidentally tripping the hood release on his 95 subaru. This happens as he exits. I don't see how he does it, so don't ask. Nevertheless, has anyone run into this problem? I notice on the 02 subarus that they imbedded the hood release in the dashboard so there is no way to accidentally trip it.

When was the separator plate changed to metal? Was it changed by 02?

One caveat of the generally good comments: On these old subaru's, the calipers are very often rusted like they have been on the bottom of the ocean for 5 years. You might even have problems getting them off. So unless they look OK or the owner claims that they have been reconditioned, then it's better to figure on pads, rotors and calipers, which are about $180/wheel, even from Rock Auto, and much more from the dealership. Just a warning based on experience.

Good advise from everyone. One point of disagreement. When replacing the 2.5 with the 2.2, it is just good common sense to put new head gaskets in the 2.2 while it's on the floor. I had one 2.2, that started leaking combustion gas into the coolant at 216K. So the changing of the HG may be a sign that the seller is smart and conscientious.

you want comments: 1. There is no mileage in the ad. Always a negative 2. The late 90's head gaskets always leak. So, when was the HG done and who did it. 3. When was the timing belt done. If not known assume immediate replacement required. [$500] 4. If you go and look at it, wear old clothes. Get down under the engine. Check if any of the 4 axel boots are broken [$450/side], either rack and pinon boots broken [$200], oil leaking from the HG [$2500], and try and check out the brakes [$500-1000]. That's for openers. Test drive over bumps to see if the struts are completely shot or if there is any bearing or steering problems.

OK, I know about the oil pump and the loosing screws. And i have replaced a pressure sensor on a different subaru. But what about the flashing light? This is a regular repeated flash. Not an irregular flickering so it must be coming from the computer.

I have a 95 LS with 203k miles. The oil light flashes for about 5-10 sec when the car is started up, and then it goes out. I have owned/own a few 1990's subarus' and I have never seen the oil light flash. There's plenty of 5W-30 oil in it, of course. Anyone know what it means. I can't believe that it takes over 5 sec for the oil pressure to build over 2 psi [which is what someone said the pressure switch is set at].

I notice that 10+ old subarus often have split boots on the power steering arms. The dearership response to this is to replace the entire fixture, wheel to wheel for about $600. What is the downside when these boots split. And is there anyway to temporarily repair them without spending a lot of money.

Grossgary has given you good advice. I have had 3 late 1990's subarus with over 200K, and none of them have had a bearing failure so it shouldn't be a very big concern for you. One thing grossgary failed to mention: If the gas filler tube has a plastic guard on it, take it off now! The guard holds wet sand and dirt against the tube, and it consequently rusts it out. Take off the passenger rear tire and it's easy to get the guard off. Put the guard in the garbage can. One more thing. The replacement starters have failed for me after a couple of years. So get a used Subaru one from a junkyard as a replacement.

Well I think that I mostly solved the problem. The rear differential was only 1/2 full. I added 12 oz to bring it up to the overflow [i couldn't get the drain plug out so that's the best that I could do]. I think that the rear differential was free wheeling and as I braked, it caused a thud when the knuckle reversed as the drive shaft stopped. The knuckle is a little loose and rotates about 3/8" as measured on the perifery when moved back and forth by hand. With the addition gear oil in the differential, it is damped and doesn't free wheel.

I have a 95 subaru with 202K mj. When coming to a stop, I get a clunk from the back at about 10 mpg. It happens almost all the time whether braking from 50 or 20 mph. It sounds like a wrench sliding against a part of the metal frame, but of course it's not. I'm thinking something about the rear differential or the knuckle joint. I just thought that this is so distinctive that someone would recognize it.

My 95 subaru is toast. The rear cross support and the frame rusted out. It could pull out of the frame at any time. I bought it 7 years ago for $1902. I put on 88,000 miles ending at 216K. I think that I got my money out of it [understated irony]. I feel a little sad because I kind of thought that I could get it to 300k. People may be interested in the things that went wrong over the last 7 years, other then normal maintenance. 1. Muffler pipe flange rusted out and needed to be welded solid 2. Starter failed 3. Fuel pump failed 4. Alternator failed 5. Gas fill tube rusted out 6. Rear differential seal needed to be replaced. The AWD function also failed [torque bind] but I just put in the fuse for the duty c solenoid except during Jan and Feb, for the last 2 years. I'm going to try and sell it for the motor. I considered buying a 97 subaru with a blown head gaskets and putting the 95 motor into it, but I found an another car on Craigs list instead. If anyone wants a 2.2 motor and is near Milwaukee, I'm going to put it on Craig list for $500. The car is still runnable so there is no freight or packaging required. As a matter of fact, I just drove the car 20 miles this morning.

I've had the fuse in for the Duty C solenoid for 2 years. No problem. If you need to put in in, don't worry about it.

Are all the bolts on a subaru the 10.9 strength? I know that the bolts holding on the calipers are 10.9. I could only find replacement for them at the subaru dealer. Now, I have a number of rusted out bolts in the rear crossmember area. Are all these 10.9 too? The hardware bolts are only 8.8's.

Recently, I stopped in to Automotive Engine Rebuilders on 1604 Arcadian Waukesha and asked them about regrinding heads. I don't know anything about machine shops, but they sure had all the right answers and seemed very competent. Questions: 1. Yes they have done Subaru and other aluminum heads 2. They had a price, $125, off the top of their head indicating that the first answer was true. 3. They provide a surface finish 30 RMS Of course I don't know if they are competitive, but this is one area where I wouldn't probably take the low bid.

I have a 95 four wheel subaru with he rear crossmember rusted out. I looked in the service manual and they show the rear differential removed before taking out the crossmember. I'm just trying to get a feel on how difficult this job would be. Taking out the rear differential seems like a lot of additional work. So my question is: If there enough room to take out the crossmember if the rear differential is just lowered after taking off the lateral links?

It could just be the filler tube. I've replaced two of my filler tubes on a 95 and a 97. You have to get under the car and try to see where it's leaking. If it's the filler tube, you can easily [well sorta] replace it yourself with one from a junk yard. If it's the tank, well that's way more difficult. How dangerous. It depends on your definition of dangerous. If you knew that a plane had a 1/1,000 chance to crash on it's next flight, would you get on? It's probably that kind of danger. Some would say that that's not dangerous. I replaced mine the day after I was aware of them.

Here's a post by AWD showing the new head gasket installed in the NA 2010 Subarus. It's a MLS like the turbos. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-changed-there-head-gasket-for-the-2010-25l/