mikec03

I'm going to change the ATF in my 1998 subaru. I think the last time I drained and refilled the trans it was before Carquest bought Advanced Auto. Anyway here are the following Carquest ATV fluids from their internet page. Which one should I buy or should I buy a Castrol ATF from Walmart. Dextron VI Atf +4 Mercon V Dextron III/ Mercon Type F Full Syntheric Multi Vehicle.

Well, it's one thing if the oil consumption is 1/4 qt/1000 mi and another if it exceeds 1.0 qt/1000 mi. I already have a subaru in the second catagory and it's a little annoying. The oil consumption took a jump at 15 K and now [maybe] at 40K. I'll know for sure at 50,000 mi whether it has jumped again or due just to high speed driving. Rapid jumps do not build confidence that there is not going to be much of an increase over the life of the engine. But I will say one thing that is nice. The low level oil light works like a charm. It trips always exactly at 1/4" above the low level on the dip stick. As an engineer, I have to say that I don't know how the subaru engineers did it, but I have to give them credit. I'll update at 50K miles

Thanks for the replies. That's the way I figured it too. I've been changing my oil, and measuring the consumption, on my 2014 auto 2.5 NA every 5,000 mi. For the oil use 20,000-40,000 mi, the consumption was 1.1 qts/5000 mi, plus or minus 0.1 qt. For the last change, 40,000-45,000 mi, the consumption was 1.6 qts. In this case, the car had operated at 75 mph for at least 3k of the 5,000 miles, which is not typical of previous operation. I shouldn't have to add, but I will do so anyway, I'm not worried about consumption of 1.5 qts/5k miles. But will it increase to 5qts or 10 qts per 5K miles? Does anyone have a guess.

GeneralDisorder sums up the situation really well. I have owned a number of high milage subaru's so I want to add my 2 cents. When a person buys a used car, he should be thinking whether the car will cost less then 10 cents/mile including major maintence. So it's a matter of "how much does it cost?" If the cost is $2000, then do we think that a 180K mile subaru will last 20,000 miles [ie 10 cents/mile]? Yes, I would say that there is a good chance of that. But if the cost is $4,000, would there be a good chance that it will last 40,000 miles? No, I wouldn't think so. Does that answer the OP's question.

I'm a little confused aabout the Engine Oil Consumption bullitin [02-157-14R]. In the first paragraph, the bullitin seems to apply to all 2013-2014 Legacy and Outback models with the 2.5L engine. However, on page 4, the applicability seems to be restricted to only manual trans 2013-2014 and for part of the production run of the auto trans 2013 cars. In other words, the auto trans 2014 2.5L engines are not covered at all! Do I understand this correctly?

I think that you have more of a problem then you think. I don't recognize the type of connection on the high pressure line. You have to figure out how to release it. It may just be a compression fitting. In other words, no flare. It doesn't help you much, but on the older subarus, the connection was just a screw clamp. But even after you disconnect it, it appears that the carbon steel tube is the part that is leaking. You are probably going to have to pull pull the whole pump assembly and replace it from one from the junk yard.

On the 90's subarus, at least on the 2.2 motors and probably on the 2.5, the power steering reservoir is on top of the oil pump. Inside the reservoir is a very small strainer on the return line.. If this strainer is largely plugged then the steering could be very stiff.

OP should post milage, but I assume it's 150k+. Of course the spark plugs and wires are always a concern. Also check for oil on the wires which would mean they are toast. However, I have a 2002 and I had similar hesitation especially from a stop. I fixed it by changing the A/F sensor [front O2 sensor]. So I would look there first. I used Bosch sensor from Advanced Auto forr $65. Easy change.

I have a 95 subaru with 170K miles and of course the 2.2 engine. Things will go wrong with the car. Some failures that i have had are: starter, alternator, door window motor, rust out of break line and fill tube, fuel pump, MAF, constant velocity boots,and power steering motor. Please notice that there is nothing on the list concerning the engine or transmission. I fixed all the above, except brake lines and CVB, myself, and I'm not mechaically inclined. The starter and alternator fail often enough after 100K that I would think about PM-ing them, especially in Alaska, unless you had information that they had been replaced. If I was in your shoes, without any rust, I would buy the car. The only thing really to worry about is the fuel pump. That failure will stop you cold without any advanced warning. It easy to replace and I should know since I've done two of them [on separate cars]. Since it's alaska, you might think about pulling it and replaceing the pump with an OEM as expensive as that would be. Another idea would be to get a used MAF and keep in a box in the back. It's a 5 min swap. And you could do the same with the fuel pump assembly. Good luck.

What's missing from the OP's post is information about how was the car running and milage before the HG change. If your timing belt is off, you would not get a code other then misfire. If you have any doubt about your timing belt settings, then you have to take off the cover and check it. This is a big job, but what else can you do? By the way, I hope that you know that the hash marks are the required to be used, not the arrows.

I think that the overwhelming belief is that the Aisin kit which includes the pump is the best. It's about $200.

+1 to getting the codes. I have an 02 and the last time that I had a problem with it, I could hardly "limp" home just like the OP. The code called for the knock sensor. I replaced same and the car ran fine. Just as a reminder to posters before they comment, the 02 subarus do NOT have a MAF.

Ah, No. What you said doesn't follow. You bought it used. It could have overheated 20 times for all you know. The bearing could be compromised. It's just foolish for you to spend money on it.

I'm surprised that no one answered your questions. First your can have either the Ej2.5D or the Ej2.2. Subaru made both in 2017. However, since it's overheating, the odds are 1000/1 that you have the Ej2.5D. You can easily tell by looking at the shape of the timing belt cover. On the Ej2.5D, the timing cover has obviously TWO cam pulleys on each side, each about 8" in dia, versus one on each side for the Ej 2.2. As to what you should do now? If it were me, I would look for and swap in a Ej2.2, without regard to the miles on it. I'm retired so I would have a lot of time to work on subaru maintenance, but i have no time to work on a Ej2.5D. As GD says, the Ej2.2 engine can have a bad HG. I even had a 95 Ej2.2 which bubbled in the coolant overflow tk. at 217Kmile so I know. But I'll take my chances with the Ej2.2 anyway. Right now, I'm maintaining two Ej2.2 cars, one with 175 Kmiles and the other with 250 Kmiles. Neither has a head gasket problem and I'm sure that both have the original HG. If I bought a motor, however, I would have the HG changed as well as a complete timing belt kit just to be safe.

I second Idosubau's WOW. She couldn't even drive it from the dealership to home! I don't mean to make the OP feel bad, but that is really LOL. What a dealership!

As it happens, I'm going to replace my timing belt on my 95 later this month. I already have an Aisin pump so I wanted to buy a kit without the pump, but Aisin doesn't sell kits without the pump. But I found this supplier that supplies near OEM parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362256923881

The Aisin kit is the best since you want the water pump too.

It looks like axoloti has left us. It's kind of hard to continue to help new posters who leave abruptively when they figure out the problem.

CAUTION: After properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air. This is a note from the factory service manual at the end of the 1995 timing belt replacement instructions. I ignored it the last time I did the timing belt on a 1995 subaru. But what is the danger? I don't have any intention of taking off the valve covers but I would still would like to know what the factory was worried about. For those not aware, the 95 and 96 subarus had self adjusting valve lash adjusters [not fixed].

See if you can get the cause of check engine light read! That could be the clue to all your problems. When a car is stalling or failing to start, it's never a good idea to ignore a check engine light.

Check that the voltage at the battery is at least 13.8 v while idling. I know that you replaced the alternator, but it seems that you aren't getting enough amps. If it were me, and I know that some people don't like to swap things without total justification, I would go to the junk yard and get a replacement for the alternator to battery cable.

I found a source for mitsuboshi belt and japanese pulley timing belt without having to order the pump. Their name on ebay is cbhausmaster. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362256923881

UPDATE- see post 4 I would like to buy the Aisin kit but I can't find any without the pump. I already have an Aisin pump to install. I don't think that i want to pay for 100% OEM parts. I guess that I will have to buy the Mizumo kit with eh Misuboshi belt, which is good, but with the GMB pulleys, which is not so good. Are there any alternatives.

You have to get back to us when you have specific information. We need the codes for example. If the compression test was done correctly, then the valves are shot on at least one cylinder. But how could they have failed? No way to figure it out with information provided.

I found it! I borrowed the pressure system from advanced auto. I finally found the leak on the 5" long hose just above the thermostat. It's the heater return I think. Anyway, the hose failed at the clamp. It's 22 years old so it's about time for it to fail. It was only putting out a drop/min at high pressure. The drops were running down the black hose and not leaving any kind of green residue that I could see. I also put in the dye and used the UV light which spotted it quickly, but the most important thing was the high pressure for 15 minutes to get it to leak a noticeable amount. Thanks for all the help. I didn't know about the pressure system