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Still trying to finish some one elses project Can't figure out where the front O2 sensor wire routes and plugs into. The sensor is still installed, the engine is in but the intake is still off. Looks like an original sensor. The lead and the plug ( three prong triangular shape) won't quite reach all the way up to the main harness where there is another matching connector. Is there an extension that goes between them or am I way off base here? Oh also, there is a metal bracket on the sensor lead, with a hole that looks like it is supposed to bolt to something, but I don't know what.

Engine pulled, studs installed, engine back in. It's 100F so I am taking a break before getting to the flexplate/TC and other stuff.

some schrader type valves have replaceable innerds- like on a car. You may be able to unscrew the inner portion of the valve and replace it or the little rubber O ring.

The other engine is gone with the bum that pulled this one. Must the engine be pulled away from the tranny to install the studs? I hope not, since lining it up was a pain. Also, what is the length of the bolt at the top right ( passenger side)?

Got the engine of this (*^)&*(^_J(&*Yn project in the car and mated up with the bellhousing (97 lego2.2 auto) only to find the bolts missing in action, Called the Subaru dealer and he could not tell me what sizes they are, but he can order them. I know they are 10mmx1.25 . They must be different lengths. I installed one at the top drivers side that is 100mm long, I think. The ones on the passenger side should be much shorter. The dealer says that two of them are studs. Anyone know the correct sized for these?

Never had an occasion to make an oil pan gasket before now. Always just bought them This time I am going to use Permatex Ultra black. Question is, how to do it exactly. How much sealant to bead up, and.... does it need to be applied all around sides of each bolt hole like a preformed rubber gasket? It looks like it would be difficult to lay down a bead on the pan without covering the holes.

"What it will get you" is this; Possibly slightly better performance, if any of the rockers are out of tolerance. Quieter engine, for the same reason. Most importantly, peace of mind- because this is the best defense against a burned exhaust valve. As valve faces and seats get worn, exhaust valves may not seat completely, thus a burned valve- then pull head and valve job. If your 99 is a phase 2 2.2 it can be done from above. I have done it that way on an Impreza. Just takes a little contortion.

Water wetter is made by Redline Subie conditioner is not water wetter. What are you getting at?

If your mechanic is fair, he probably found that it needs a compressor/and or condensor. Where was the car hit in the accident? If in front, it is likely the condenser. Depending on how long the system has been open, you most likely need a drier ($35) as well. Condensor is not a difficult job for an experienced DIY'er. If you are one that sweats changing oil and filter, prolly not a job for you. Why don't you ask your mechanic what exactly is wrong?

Hey, If that is an EJ22, I could use the tensioner bracket- if it is the right year. Mine is missing and the engine is waiting for one to be re-installed,

Great, thanks, Know where I can find one? Doubt salvage yards will take one off an engine,.

Trying to put together someone else's work here, so I am a bit off. Something does not look right. This is a 97, with the old style tensioner. Is there supposed to be some kind of bracket that the tensioner bolts to? If it is, then I have another missing part.

Thanks, The little logo looks like that. It actually has OY on it though. Must be the yiddish version.

There is no lettering indicating which side goes out. There is copper on both sides, however,. one side has raised areas of what looks like graphite an the edge of all the openings. Edit; On one side it is stamed EJ22 114 and OY

You may just have a chunk of carbon wedged in the valve seat area. Sometimes on those old 4 cyl flat airplane engines, when the compression is low,. we would "stake" the valves on that cyl. Basically, the get a wooded stake, place it on top of the rocker above the valve and give it a few whacks with a heavy hammer. It actuates the valve and sometimes loosens the foreign object- compression come back up.

Putting head gaskets on a 97 2.2 I noticed that one side is stamped with the 2.2 and another logo of sorts. Is there a certain orientation for these? Which side goes out- towards the head. They look pretty symmetrical otherwise, but I know Toyota had an issue years ago with Hg's installed backwards.

I see those., Yep, same as an aircraft. thanks all.

Trying to re- assemble an engine someone else took apart- so please excuse all the questions, The face of the block, where the heads mate has 4 holes just about at each corner. I found on one side of the block, there are two hollow pins or sleeves that look like they would be used to locate the head gasket on the block. On the other side there is only one. How many are supposed to be on each side, and how are they inserted and held in? Can't really see them in the manual.

I have a 2000 O/B with the same issue. 158k on it. I have changed tie rods but the clunk is in the rack. There is a backlash adjustment, I believe, but it is not accessible on this model with the rack installed. I'm wondering if it is possible to disconnect the fluid lines and the steering input shaft, so I could rotate the rack about 90 degress to get to the backlash adjustment? As far as a special tool; I tried it on a rack out of a car, and a socket worked fine to loosen the nut.

There always seems to be a question of which is left/right on a car. I have the same question about the cam pullies on my 97 Lego's 2.2 Send the heads off for valve job, and now I can't remember, is the left the drivers side?

thanks

Right, I meant the bunch that connect the flex plate to the crank

Have the engine out and replaced the oil baffle plate. Can't find torque specs for the flex plate. Anyone have them?

Wow, you really lucked out on that one! Only 95k and a timing idler worn out to the point of the belt jumping time. Coulda been much worse. I would be suspicious of the mileage on the clock. That is pretty unusual for that kind of wear after only 95k. Do car fax. Small dealers that take cars to auctions are notorious for rollbacks, I recently bought a Honda that had come through an auction. Couldn't understand why the suspension was so bad with such low mileage - until I did a car fax.

As I said, the spring was there. Were it not, I'm sure Justin would not have installed it. As for the refund; I have seen the local Parts Pro and auto zone pay labor and parts charges on faulty parts, after a claim was made with the supplier,. One for an AC compressor, and the other was a shock.