TROGDOR!

Bump. I really need help!

More than likely a blown head gasket. Typical case of oil/water mixture, and very common on turbos. EA82T is rated at 115hp/134tq I believe? Sure feels like a lot more- they're fun cars. SPFI EA82 is rated at 90/90 I think.

Judging by the shape of the center hole, those seem to be from a 505. Those should take the standard Subaru acorn style lugs. The alloys and the 504 wheels are the ones that take the special ones.

I've mounted 6 1/2" speakers in the front doors of all my Roos. It requires removing the plastic adapter that the factory speaker mounts to, and they go right in. Gotta line the holes up just right though, only one of the sets of holes on the speaker will match up. The car uses a common ground type system, so if you want to hook up all 4 speakers, you'll need to run new wiring to two of them. If your local car audio place gives you a about the dash adapter plate, tell them it's for a 90 Loyale, that'll be exactly what you need. I'm assuming your car is this body type: If your car is the other style hatch, with either two round or four square headlights, everything said in this thread doesn't apply to you. FYI, we call the type of car in the picture a "coupe" or a "3 door" instead of a hatchback. The hatchback is a different body style. That'll help you out a bit with whatever your next question is.

My friend who was going to haul a car for me had a big breakdown in his truck and likely will not be able to do it now. I desperately need to have this car moved!! Car is an 89 XT, 5 speed 4 cylinder- pretty light can be towed with 4 wheels on the ground. It needs to be moved from St. Marys, PA to Franklin, PA between the 24th and the 29th. It's about a 90 mile trip one way. It does not run or drive. I DESPERATELY need this car hauled to complete my project, as I'm now racing against the coming of winter- need to pull parts off this car first before I can make any progress. Can anybody help? If you know of anyone else on the board who doesn't check here often, can you send them my way?

Enlarge the pic, you can see blue valve covers and a carb style intake. My vote also goes to EA81.

I have a rear shock from my RX here, still fully assembled- it measures just a tiny bit over 18 3/4 inches from the top of the top nut to the center of the bottom bolt hole. I measured from the top of the nut instead of the very tip of the shaft, because that little tab at the end that aids in disassembly of the shock is snapped off- hence the part still being assembled.

Oops, my mistake. Yes, the turbo 3sp autos have 23 spline axles, and the turbo MT's have 25 splines. Also, the 4 speed autos have 25 spline axles... correct me (again) if I'm wrong, but those trannys were only used in turbo sedans/wagons? Some nonturbo 4WD XT's got 4EAT's, and as for the spline count on them... anybody want to yank one and count? My bet would be 25 spline.

All automatics do not have 3.7 final drive ratios. The owner's manual says they do, but this is a MISPRINT. If you check the tag on the rear diff of any nonturbo automatic 4 cylinder, it'll be 3.9. All turbo cars are 3.7. All nonturbo cars are 3.9. Changing to 3.7 by swapping transmissions will probably not change much- I've noticed that the 5 speed turbo cars I've driven still rev at around 3500 rpm at 70mph. The internal gearing is different. To get a serious advantage you'll probably have to open your transmission and replace the actual differential gears.

Yes, this trans uses exactly the same technology as the XT6 manual trans. They're identical except for the gearing- the '6 has a 3.9 final drive, and the individual gears are set up to be better suited for a 6 cylinder. The turbo transmission's gear ratios are designed to match the 4 cylinder engine better- I've heard that an XT6 trans behind a 4 cylinder engine doesn't run too well.

The part time 4WD runs in FWD until you push the button, which makes it lock into standard 4WD, with front and rear axles turning at the same speed. The FT4WD is an early version of AWD, driving all 4 wheels all the time. The diff lock button locks it into standard 4WD like the part time trans. This transmission NEVER runs in 2WD.

Could just pop your head under the back of the car and look at the diff tag. I'm 90% sure all 4cyl XT's are 3.7 regardless of equipment. If you want to go part time 4WD, I should have a trans available soon, from an 89 nonturbo XT. I bet many people would love to get their hands on a FT4WD box.

Your FT4WD 5 speed is already 3.7. Best gas mileage I ever got was in a 2WD nonturbo XT, which I believe has the same kind of gearing as a 3.7 final drive trans. It got 33mpg on the highway in the mountains.

Wait till it sits out in the sun for a few months and bakes on, then try to remove it. No amount of pure water will do it. I've had luck with rubbing compound, like the kind you use for getting blemishes out of paint for auto detailing.

1) Two cars, one good engine, one thrown rod 2) I need a car to drive while my restoration project is in the body shop. 3) I'm selling the car in the end anyway, next owner can do what they like with it 4) Used EA82T's are expensive in these parts 5) Every used EA82T I've had has blown up within 48 hours of me taking ownership 6) MPFI engines are an easy swap in place of a turbo and are cheap and durable As for the 5 years thing- so far this is the best deal I've found. Low miles, CLOSE BY (this is the key factor here), and cheap!

As the title says. Likely going to be using an engine that was in a car that sat INDOORS for 5 years. The guy is checking it out for me today to make sure it turns over, aside from being coated in dust from sitting the engine bay of the car looks good. New timing belts, new front and rear main seals, new cam seals, and new valve cover gaskets for starters. What else should I change/look out for? The engine is an MPFI nonturbo out of an 89 XT, and it's going into an 89 RX. Yes, I'm replacing turbo with nonturbo. Any other suggestions for doing this swap? I know I'll need all intake tubing and the exhaust Y-pipe at the minimum... what else?

As I found out, the Subaru door trim is in fact NOT all rubber, and has a thin metal piece running along the inside of it. This thin piece of metal is super easy to bend, and once bent, can almost never be straightened. How in the world do I pull the trim off my doors without bending the **** out of it? This is a 3-door, so the strips are even longer and therefore harder to remove.

I'd go for some softer ones. I had the stiffest ones available on my wagon and they just about knocked my fillings out. I figured you could do better than $70... I got mine for $20.

Heh, according the first pic, it's also Remort Control.

Yes, if it's an EA82, you can use the front springs from an 86-89 Accord. They fit right onto the EA82 rear shocks and will lift the rear about 2 inches.

Final drive ratios are the same. The Subaru owners manual states that automatics are 3.7, but it is an ERROR. All N/A cars are 3.9. All turbo cars are 3.7. When I did the auto to manual conversion in my Loyale I kept the original 3.9 diff, and everything worked perfectly.

You should be hearing a pretty decent thump when you move the handle as the vent opens or closes. If all you hear is the click of the handle, then yes, your mechanism is broken. I think the handle attaches to a cable, but I'm not sure. And yes, the US cars have it too- but it's on the left side.

I think I may be able to shed some light on this... Is your ignition on your right or left? If it's on your right- you'll find a selector handle underneath the rightmost vent. If it's on the bottom, it's allowing the car to draw in air directly from outside via that one vent. Pull it up to the top, problem solved. Remember people, they drive on the wrong side of the car in Australia.

Wow, and this one's under $7,000!

Drive shaft is NOT the same. You need the trans of course, trans crossmember, shifters, driveshaft, flywheel, new clutch kit, clutch cable, pedal box, and console parts. When you unplug the automatic shifter, splice the two fat black wires in the middle of the plug together so the computer will think the car is in neutral and will let it start. That's about it.