TROGDOR!

Yes, change the water pump. The shaft length is different.

Yes, it is plug and play, just make sure you use the right MAF and electronics setup. In the US, 1985-1987 use the older style and 1987.5-1990 use the newer style. I'm running that setup in one of my RX's right now. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40961

Pull the gauge cluster out and remove the bulb. Doesn't sound like that much of a bad idea... may do that when I reassemble the interior in my project car. That light is annoying.

Extra ground never hurts. Experienced an identical problem in the RX when I got it, a big fat wire from the bellhousing to the strut tower solved everything.

They came in red too, but the funny thing was, EVERYTHING was red. Tops of the bumpers, side trim, wing, front lip, etc. They were available with a turbo just like any Loyale. The turbo ones say TURBO RS on the door, and TURBO on the passenger side of the decklid- at least the one I saw did.

When I installed my high rise console in my RX I did it a little differently. Yes the screws in front do line up. I unbolted the seatbelt buckles and slid them through the slots for the automatic belts, bottom end first, then bolted them back down. If I remember right there is a bracket way down on the bottom that the low console screws into from the sides- I just drilled holes in the sides of the high rise console to correspond with them, and put in some long screws. Works like a charm.

The brown interior was quite common on the mid 80's models... and I believe all red 85-86 DL's came with brown interiors unless otherwise ordered. Andrew, what year was that Loyale? There's a billion of them running around this town, and in the junkyard as well, and I still have yet to see one with a brown interior.

I don't ever recall seeing a Loyale with a brown interior. Far as I know they only offered blue and gray.

1985 2WD GL-10's came with only two engine options- MPFI nonturbo and MPFI turbo. The electronics in them are the same, and the engines can be interchanged without too much hassle (I just replaced a turbo with an MPFI nonturbo, it was plug and play). But when putting a turbo in place of a nonturbo, you'd need to replace the crossmember to make room for the crossover pipe- still not so hard to do. It could have been converted, yes... or they could have just swapped a dead engine for a live one. Check on the gauge cluster, is there a turbo light? It's pretty obvious, it'll say TURBO written in white, with a light next to it. If the turbo light is there, then more than likely the car was turbo from the factory.

The DL takes two 194 bulbs, while the GL takes a 194 and one bigger one. Or was it the other way around? Either way, one of the bulbs is different, so get the wiring for the side markers as well. I forgot about the filler panel underneath, but if I remember right it comes out with the entire headlight assembly.

You'll need the headlights and the mounting bucket they sit in, as well as the side markers, which are thinner than the GL ones. Also take the wiring harnesses for the headlights and side markers.

Seatbelt in my '89 RX has messed up, it now locks once I pull it out to a certain amount, which just so happens to be exactly enough to still buckle me in, but hold me in as tight as a race driver- still safe, but uncomfortable. Anyone know if the belt from a sedan/wagon is the same, or does it have to be one from a coupe? I can get a new one today regardless, but using one from a sedan or wagon would save me about 35 miles each way.

The 4Runner ones are even cooler. They have an altimeter in place of the big 4WD light.

I've noticed the shadow too, with every car I've ever owned, even ones that aren't Subarus. They were all at least 8 years old at the time. I think it's not a weakness of the headlights more than the fact that most newer cars have such efficient and white lights with a wide spread that will make a shadow out of anything in front of them.

I had a DL, then a GL immediately afterward, and noticed no difference in lighting performance. Try changing your bulbs and aligning your headlights before doing anything, as said above the Xtravisions are your best bet when sticking with a low price. Headlight bulbs DO fade over time, so just because they still light up doesn't mean they aren't worn out.

Well I'm not trying to say you're wrong Corky, since you do know these cars inside and out... but I've never seen a nonturbo auto with a 3.7 diff. I just wonder what the big mystery is. I think next time I'm at the junkyard I'll look under the cars and see what I find. There was also that one I converted from 3AT to D/R without touching the rear diff, and it runs smooth as silk in 4WD.

Well, either the service manual is in error, or they offered either final drive for 1986. As I said I used a 1986 model trans in a 1990 model car, both of which had 3.9 tags on the rear diff, plain as day. I ran that 1990 wagon all day long in 4WD at the Pine Barrens without the slightest binding, so I know for a fact the trans had a 3.9 ratio. The car I pulled it from was most definitely a 1986- it had the 85-86 bumpers, grille, trim, gauge cluster, interior, etc- not to mention the junkyard employees had written 1986 all over it. Also had a 12/85 build date.

What are the differences between the trannies anyway? I put an 88 trans in an 87 car and an 86 trans in a 90 car, and both went in and ran perferctly, like they were made to fit. Never had the slightest bit of trouble with installation or operations. I don't doubt that there is some difference (Hollander lists them as different too), but it sure wasn't in the electronics, final drive, axle shafts, mounts, input and output shafts, etc... essentially everything that gets attached to something else was the same. Could the parts listings possibly be wrong? I hear they also list a 3.9 LSD, yet I haven't heard of any documented cases of one existing outside of an XT6. Just food for thought.

1985 is actually the only year I haven't done tons of work on. Interesting. I know for a fact 1986 takes a 3.9, as I used a 1986 trans to replace a 1990 that most definitely was 3.9. Checked the diff on the '86 before pulling it as well, to confirm.

This trans *should* be the same as a pushbutton 4WD 5speed trans from a turbo GL/GL-10. Single range, pushbutton. 3.7 final drive. If that helps anyone find Gary the info he needs.

I'll say it again, as I've said it many times before- ALL nonturbo sedans/wagons are 3.9, and ALL turbos are 3.7. 3AT's are available in both 3.7 and 3.9 just like the manuals, it all depends on whether the car is turbo or not. The owner's manual says all autos are 3.7 final drive, THIS IS A MISPRINT. All nonturbo EA82 sedans and wagons are 3.9 final drive, manual or auto!!! I've been under enough to notice, and I've also replaced two 3AT's with junkyard units, which I checked for gear ratio BEFORE pulling. I also converted a nonturbo Loyale from 3AT to Dual Range and didn't change the rear diff, and it matches the final drive from the manual tranny perfectly- just ask Tin Soldier, he bought the car from me and will tell you it runs smooth as silk in 4WD. When dealing with EA82 sedans/wagons/coupes, this is all you need to know, for manuals and automatics: TURBO: 3.7 NONTURBO: 3.9 And while I'm at it, all 4cyl XT's are 3.7 final drive- manual or automatic, turbo or nonturbo, all the 4cyl's take a 3.7. The XT6 manual takes a 3.9, and I haven't ever checked under a 4WD auto XT6, so I can't say for sure on that trans. Or you can just crawl under the car, scrape the dirt off the rear diff tag, and verify it.

All XT's had a 3.7 final drive, turbo and nonturbo. I believe the turbo and nonturbo PT4WD transmissions are actually completely the same.

Holy old post, Batman. Wagon Wagon was me in a past life.

The PT4WD I gave you has a 3.7 final drive, yes. The ones out of DL's and Loyales though, those have a 3.9. When you engage 4WD in a PT4WD, it'll run exactly like a FT4WD with the diff locked. The difference is when 4WD is disengaged, it runs 2 wheels instead of 4.

I didn't change the starter or instrument cluster when I did my 92 Loyale. I later learned the starter is a different part number between manual and automatic, yet somehow my original one still worked fine. As for the gauge cluster, it's purely cosmetic. Car will drive fine with the original one still installed, and everything will read right.