TROGDOR!

Wow. Subaru never offered heated seats in the USA until the late 90's, I don't think. Would be nice to have here in the mountains. The grab handle on the pillar was a 3-door only thing. The car in the pictures at the beginning of this thread has one on the passenger side in the right hand drive layout, you can see it through the windshield.

From the pics I've seen, the NZ cars seem to use all the EDM equipment... might want to ask one of the Kiwi members for some close up headlight pics and specs...

Take ONE rally with that RX trans in low range, and you'll be in love. It's perfect for that application. I say... put the engine and the RX tranny into the XT, as well as the RX suspension. Why? The front strut top mount points in the XT are 2 inches lower than the RX. This means that with the RX struts on the XT, it'll sit 2 inches higher than the RX. You may need to use the RX springs on 2WD sedan struts in the back to keep the car level. If you're going to be running it off road at high speed like you say, this extra height combined with the stiffness of the RX suspension will be pretty beneficial... EDIT- just realized what I said about the strut mounts might be a little confusing. The nose of the XT is 2 inches slimmer, so any factory XT front strut will be 2 inches shorter than a comparable sedan/wagon/coupe front strut. So, by using the ones from the RX, you'll get a 2 inch lift (instead of the 2 inch drop people get by going the other way around).

I like how the factory mounting space for the stereo is bulged outward so a standard-depth deck can be fitted. Why the heck didn't they make them like that here?

That looks like a new wheel style as well! The taillights are also different than the US model, it only has one big section for the brake light, and the reverse lamps and reflectors on the inside of the light...

Good point. Is there any reliable way of measuring coolant temperature in degrees without shelling out the bucks for an aftermarket gauge?

Slotted brake rotors for the GL/Loyale- http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_subaru.shtml I posted that several months ago and nobody seemed to care. I called the guys, and yes, the rotors DO exist.

The heater works as it should, the output is just pretty feeble due to the low temp- that's what has me convinced it's actually running cold instead of a faulty gauge. It blows out ice cold when the engine is cold, and gradually warms up as the engine warms up- but the output is barely more than lukewarm, consistent with the engine actually running cool.

A while ago I posted about my RX overcooling- even after running on the interstate the temp needle was still less than 1/4 of the way up the gauge. As a consequence it almost always runs at cold idle, and the heater hardly works. Put a new thermostat in last week and it made no difference. Still runs cool. The electric fan isn't kicking on, and nothing seems to be out of the ordinary... so before I remove the mechanical fan or put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator, any other suggestions? This is on my nonturbo converted RX with the XT engine in it, by the way.

This setup is from an XT and is totally different from the sedan/wagon setup. Compared to the wagon setup, this alternator mounts "sideways."

Actually, the engine WAS fairly clean, not too awful much grime... until the power steering pump locked up. The belt scraped over it for a bit, and left a fine coating of black dust all over everything, looks like grime but wipes off with the brush of a hand. 90 degree hose looked and felt good when I inspected the water pump, so I left it alone. Same with the alt, it charges just fine, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it... The engine is a nonturbo MPFI out of an '89 XT, hence the serpentine belt setup instead of V-belts. Decided to go nonturbo on this particular car because of my bad luck with turbos. The project car, however... that one's my baby and is put together 100% by-the-book. No loose wires, clean, shiny, and sealed CCR EA82T, and timing belt covers snugly in place. Once I get up off my butt and finally finish it, it's going to look brand new inside and out, and under the hood too.

Because if it isn't, this can happen: I was cruising on the interstate at about 70 when I suddenly heard a knocking sound from under the hood. Looked at the oil pressure gauge and it read zero. Almost crapped my pants, and pulled over. Turns out the oil sending unit wire came loose and drifted into the drivebelt. The belt ripped it out, and in the process, 2 of the 4 ribs of the serpentine belt shredded off. The flopping chunk of belt caught on the dipstick, pulled it out and flung it onto the highway somewhere, and I'm assuming either the flopping belt or the dipstick hitting the hood made the knocking sound. So the moral of the story... keep any loose wires secured! (and carry an extra pair of pants)

Here's some images from a Yahoo Germany photo search of the European model Justy... just a Suzuki Swift all the way... In Germany they pronounce it like "YOO-stee."

I saw them all over the place in Germany- the 3rd gen Justy is just a rebadged Suzuki Swift, which was rebadged in the US as the first-gen Geo Metro. Far as I know the US model Justy was all Subaru, and the Suzuki stuff applies to overseas, after the Justy as we know it was not made anymore... from what I saw in that article, it could go either way...

Emily at CCR and Hollander both say it fits 1999 only. Hollander gives no info about other retrofits, and all Emily could tell me was a tentative "maybe." Seems to be kind of an iffy deal, replacing this engine with something more common. Hopefully someone in here has done it... My friend doesn't have much interest in fixing the car, and if I can get an engine for it, I may be able to buy the car super cheap and then do the work myself. Wouldn't mind going 10 years newer overnight.

Friend of mine needs a 2.2 for a 99 Legacy, and I've heard that this engine is totally unique and must be replaced ONLY by one from a 99 Legacy. Question... is there anything else that can be made to work without a ton of retrofitting or rewiring?

The XT6 core support angles a good 6 inches or so toward the front of the car. It's substantially different. The hood latch also mounts about 2-3" farther forward on the hood. But yes, it'd be easier to modify than a normal EA82.

FOUR SPEED auto and all manual turbo transmissions take the same axles. So, if your shifter markings say "P R N D 3 2," the turbo manual trans axle will work. If it says "P R N D 2 1," it'll take the same axle as ANY nonturbo car, but not the one from a turbo 5-speed.

Nobody has mentioned substantial modification to the engine bay that is required to install an ER27 in an EA82 car. The engine bay is not physically long enough to take this engine, you'll have to either chop away and custom modify a new core support, or weld in an XT6 one. Along with this core support, the hood release needs to be relocated. Also the radiator, fans, and A/C condensor. Not an easy job either way. While an EJ22 does take some custom work to get done, it will physically fit within the stock engine bay...

I had one out of a parts car that sat for 6 years. Had a full set of gaskets and seals for it, but after inspecting it on the bench, the only ones needing attention were the valve cover gaskets. Changed the oil, cranked it over by hand a few revolutions, then installed it in another car. Fired up and ran on the first try. Ticked for about 3 or 4 minutes and then purred like a kitten. 2 months and 2000 miles later it still has yet to develop a TOD or any new oil leaks. Great engines, these are.

Well, that's because you're in Tennessee. Visit the east coast/Appalachian area and you'll see them literally falling apart. I had one where the rear fender well collapsed from rust, and a parts car that was so rusty that bolts tore out chunks of the body instead of turning out like they were supposed to. Here's the underside of another parts car I had:

This page should have everything you need to know. http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

Got pics?

So I'm finally getting around to posting this- my RX has a bad oil pressure gauge. It peaks just over 45psi and falls to zero at idle. I thought it was an engine issue, but it read exactly the same with the original EA82T, the CCR EA82T, and the N/A engine I installed. Every engine has had a different sending unit on it, so I know it's not the problem. Installed the CCR engine in my other RX, and as soon as I fired it up the gauge shot almost to the top and maintained wonderful oil pressure. So now I KNOW the problem lies somewhere in my gauge. Do I need to replace the entire gauge cluster to take care of it, or is there some kind of wiring issue that needs taken care of?

Request one for a 1990-94 Loyale. The counter jockeys almost never mess that one up.