subyrally

looks like the control arm is laying on the ground there, you might be able to fix it, but it wouldnt be cheap, well, from the look of it anyway. might make for a good parts car though. and its a turbo, unless its the ea82t, its rare. find out if its the ea81t, if so, $100 would be a great deal on it, just get it rebuilt and resealed and youll have a stout engine.

ill have to stop by and talk to jim, the owner of the shop, and see what he will quote me at.

it all depends on your machinist. and the shop you take it to.

if you cant get copper gaskets, you could get the block o-ringed/ it keeps the gaskets from blowing out under high stress.

rent a trailer, they are usually likes $20-50.

i could dig the rx 5 spd with ea81 splines. i wouldnt mind 3.0 but then again, i never had any problems with 3.7 in my rx. yeah, id just be happy with a 5spd that i could bolt into a brat without too much effort.

dude! you are placing blame on the wrong party. its not the store's fault, it is the destributors and manufacturer. remember , iwork for advance, its not the first time thats happened, but its not the store's fault. monroe had that problem with struts a couple years ago. they would send back the cores in the gas-matic boxes. unless they hassle you about it, dont blame advance, remember, the company they get their parts from serves most part stores. and always open the box when you order parts, that the first thing i do, and i even work there. trust me, im your frined, i wouldnt lie to you, its not always the store, and when it is, its usually an accident. *end rant* peace tim

will, youll just have to prove em all wring then, wont you/

hmmm, paintball guns would be fun, but there isnt much in the means of arenas for it. as for the rx, hmm, lets see, i would have to put it back together and get it registered. im not going to get it registered cause im going to sell it. but i hope to have it drivable by the time of the cookout.

i am still planning the brat rx conversion once i sell my rx off. i already have the turbo cross membr and wiring harness, i just need the engine that will go into it. well, until i get my race worthy engine built. i also want to find a 5 spd d/r tranny. hmmm, maybe i should worry about selling the rx and geting a brat first. i hope the brat i want is still available once i have money for it.

its a long shot, but if you really want awd, you could turn the engine and fwd tranny sideways, the instread of running cv joints off the front diff, you could rund small prop shafts to the front and rear diffs. ive seen it done with a satern engine and tranny for rock crawling. ive honestly thought about doing that with a spare engine once i get my cars finished. i am thinking about making an awd buggy with a mid engine set up. i think ill have fun with it. that and it will allow me to run lsd front and rear.

ive heard a lot of people have had their borla headers crack, i guess i got lucky. im running the version 4 header and have had it on my car since winter 2003-2004 ish. the only issue ive had with exhasut is that the wrx cat back im running had to be fit to my car. other than that, i guess i have just been fortunate.

by the way, what parts are you looking for?

depending on what you need, there is alway the market place on the forum here, then there is stokes in brunswick md, and then there is octagon auto spares in york pa. every now and then i see newer subies at elwood's auto exchange in smithsburg md.

if you really want the boxer rumble, you need to get some tuned length headers. the only headers i know of like that are made by borla. i have em on my imbreza, sounds freaken sweet. ive been running the haders for over a year and a half. i still drive around without th stereo on just to listen to the car. i also, forr some stupid reason, am running a 3" cat back with a megan racing n1 muffler. i guess im just waiting for that turbo engine now to justify that exhaust. i also have another exhaust that was custom made for my car with a dual canister muffler on it, sounds sweet, but the 3" pipes sound better in my opinion. and trust me, it has never sounded ricey.

i have a compression test kit here. i am in frederick, i might could help you diagnose the problem.. then again, you could always get an engine swap, get a jdm sti swap and drop that in, no one would see it coming till it was too late.

in the sohc ej25, you only need a long socket extention and i think a 12or 14mm socket.i replaced mine a couple years ago, in the walmart parking lot after i bought my first set of tools. well, not my first set of tool, but it was like the first set of high quality sockets and extentions. the hardest part of the replacement was getting the sensor hooked up to the harness if i remember correctly.

forkspear, you have a pm, and people, start using instant messanger when you have a handle.

sounds cool.

i currently work at advance auto, some of the filters we sell are crap, like the apc cones, they arent that good, i havent messed with the mushroom filter by apc. i have used the metal mesh filter that is made by apc, under their high end name. it isnt that bad of a filter, but i would still reccomend a k&n filter over most everything else. then ther is the regular paper filters, they may keep your engine clean,but they sap a lot of power. hey odd, ill hit you up later, i need to figure out how long its going to take me to get to the point that ill need that set up, but i still want one so bad it hurts.

how do you get an alternator into place with the spyider manifild and no a/c? i got the manifold and was looking at it and noticed that hte bracket for the alt is different and looks like it requires the a/c compressor as one of the mounting points. i have no a/c nor do i want to install it in my car when i am done. is there a bracket for the cars without a/c?

get a split boot, you dont have to take the axel out to install it. i sell em at the advance auto parts store i work in. they are also rather cheap, at like $11 each.

dude, you gotta make me a ms'n'edis setup. and in a stock set up, the ditsy also controls fuel doesnt it. im liking the lack of the maf in that pic. nice, map sensors are much better than maf's any way.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=805319 anyone that wants to come, send me a pm and just drop in and say hi on that thread.

youll need a 19mm socket and torque wrench for the wheels, 14mm wrench for the caliper bolts, and a 17mm for the bracket bolts. you will aslo need a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers for the pistons. anti seize lube for the threads of the bolts, and brake lube (syl-glide), aside from that, you need a jack and some jack stands. you shouldnt need too much more than that. brakes are suber easy. just make sure you coat th hub with anti seize after you remove any rust, it help preven future rust and makes it easier to remove the rotr later. i think it also helps with brake noise. good luck and have fun with it.