shortskoolbus

easy. break the bolts before removing the crank pulley. however you held the crank pulley will hold the cam sprockets also so long as the timing belt is still on.

it's a 97 Legacy When taking them out i just popped them out with the wheel lug by leveraging against the diff... but don't have anything to leverage against going the other way now.

I swapped out my diff and am not sure how to get the rear axles back in. Obviously i just need to push them hard enough, but i can't get enough leverage on anything. Any tips to get them back in?

I replaced it because i was back there for the oil separator... lesson learned, never touch that rear main seal unless it is leaking. If that thing is still leaking this time, i'm not doing it again.. it's going into the mechanic. I did make one mistake though which i hope doesn't come back to haunt me... i only torqued the drive plate bolts down to 40 ft-lb instead of 52 ft-lb.. for some reason i remembered them as 40. I did use loctite though, so i figure it should be okay... or i hope i should say..

everyone says its easier to pull the motor.. but there are so many more steps/connections! and what about the AC? You have to recharge it again after that?

7 bolts sounds right.. sorry i don't have any other advice then. I don't think the seal from the factory sealant should be that difficult to break though How did you try to break it? You said you used a piece of wood? Are you trying to pry it away from the block or loosen it by knocking it to the side? I don't think it will knock loose to the side because there should be dowel pins also on the block.

make sure you have ALL the bolts out.. On the EJ 22 there's one right in the center of the pump too. The seal should break pretty easily if its the original. I had the same problem, and then realized one of the bolts were still in. And then just take a pry bar and leverage it out.

so i tried to drill the hole, my drill is too wimpy. i ended up not doing it.. :-\, but the threads that were there seem okay still, i just used plenty of loctite.

just finished putting my 4EAT back in... for the second time.. changed the rear main (again) and resealed the oil separator plate since i can't say for sure what was leaking from the first time i did it.. put a thin coat of sealant around the outside of the rear main which will hopefully prevent any leaks in the event that i stupidly installed it wrong again... if that thing is still leaking, i'm letting the mechanic do it. pulling the transmission twice is more than i would like already...

just picked the helicoil kit didnt come with a tap handle or drill bit, but looks pretty straight forward.

alternator?

Hey guys I need some help. I cross threaded one of the tabs on my torque converter the last time I put my tranny back on. Because it wasn’t in a position where I could tape it out and put a helicoil in (without pulling the tranny again) I had to just run a M8 x 1.25 tap right through it which I think just chopped off the top of the peaks of each thread.. Now I have the tranny out again I want to fix that hole. I’ve never done this before, but I think its just a matter of tapping the hole out to the bigger size and then threading the helicoil in. Do I need to drill out the hole at all or can I just start tapping with the larger tap since there are still threads there. Do I just use a tap one size up?

Well I just did the plate a few weeks ago... i'm only back in there again because something is still leaking. but i can't say for sure the plate isn't also the culprit, so maybe i'll do it just for good measure.

Few weeks ago i pulled the tranny, changed the oil separator plate... and thought heck might as well do the rear main. Well, this is what the rear main looks like today... First picture has some coolant on it thats why it's green, but the second picture is just the oil.. It's actually pretty dirty back there in general so i really can't tell for sure that its the rear main, but looking closely i can see oil at the edges... so i think it's safe to say that it is the rear main..? I learned my lesson about that seal - if it's not leaking, don't touch it. I'm just debating if i should reseal my oil separator.. i'm pretty sure it's not leaking.. but can't say for sure.

when i asked him why he couldnt get it into spec his response was "old suspension" and the recommended fix was "camber kit"... if the root cause is old suspension, wouldnt' changing the worn suspension components be the logical next step? camber kit? ....