viceversa

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Loyale won, so you know. On rural curvy Virginia roads in the middle of nowhere, late at night, cruising 55 and having less than 1 second to react. Crawled under the car with a flashlight to inspect the damage. One of the headlights was kind of dented in, required adjustment, in but surprisingly, did not break. One of the park lights below it is not working. The metal thing around the fan was slightly dented, making a scary noise but I straighted it out. The hood has a barely noticeable dent, saw it only 2 days later. Just got alignment on it. No real damage thankfully.

Ebay recently had an auction for a 92 loyale with 60K miles and it sold for about $1100. Check the listings. As a general rule, you don't get your money out of all these mods. I would say in the $1K to 2K range depending on where you are.

Given the mileage, you are doing really good. Our 92 Loyale had tranny fail at 160K miles. Anything after that mileage is a bonus, IMO. The other advice sounds like a good one.

1992 Loyale, EA82 auto

1) Get 7/8 Deep socket for 1/2" drive. 22mm will also work. Do not use that special O2 sensor socket. You will bend it. 2) Get some PB Blaster and soak it for a few days. 3) Get a 1/2" breaker bar. 4) Get a 7/8 or 22mm open end wrench. Heating up the exhaust might be a good idea. Cut the O2 sensor wire, put the socket over it and use the breaker bar, do not use the regular 3/8" drive ratchet. Oh, and safely lift the car. If the O2 is stuck, you can shake the car off jacks. Use drive on ramps at the very least and choke the wheels.

My EA82 was overheated by loosing all coolant. After that episode, I checked compression and the driver's side went from 150psi to 75. The passenger's side was a bit better at 115psi. Should these heads be replaced? Or head gaskets? Or should I just ignore it? I don't see any coolant consumption or loss of power. All seems as normal. But that 75psi kind of worries me. I think I pulled it when it was cold, could it be compression is different when hot? Please, someone tell me definitively. I want to take this one to at least 200,000 on the engine and I have 100K to go.

Thanks. It's actually is slightly above zero.

I had that happen in 92 Loyale. Definitely strands you if you are in the middle of nowhere on narrow country roads. But, no damage.

92 Loyale, 90K miles on 1.8L SPFI When it is sitting parked, the oil pressure is at zero or nearly zero according to the gauge. I cannot remember if the last time I saw that was when it was cold or hot. I have to rev it up to get the oil pressure to come up. Is that a problem? Does the oil pump need to be changed? If so, where it is located and how hard is it?

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I have the same question, my 92 Loyale with 100K miles overheated and compression on the driver's side went from 150psi to 75psi. Nothing else seems to be affected, good performance - should I get it replaced?

I think the reason for this is, the part costs $1 to make, $20 is various overhead and dealer charges even more for knowledge and install, etc. Most people know _nothing_ about cars and couldn't tell a transmission from the exhaust pipe. Just the same reason why they sell you coke for $0.99. It is worth less than 1 cent likely. I don't get anything but OEM sensors for all my cars. I had a lot of trouble with after market stuff from Advanced Auto parts, so on. Especially sensors like O2 sensor, knock sensor. You have to get them at the dealer or on-line. The other thery is that a Ford or Subaru, etc. dealer is supposed to know more about your model than anyone else. Most of the time you can get away at servicing your vehicle at plain jane service center (or ideally, doing it yourself as I try to) but some people insist on going only to the dealer who has the lastest information on recalls, knows the best parts. Is it worth it? Not to me but the fact that they exist shows they offer a valuable service to the ignorant public.

Yeah, I do appreciate it. It is a good thing changing spark plugs on Subaru's is a piece of cake (compared to some other vehicles).

I haven't messed with my EGR yet, but from what I know about other cars, the engine should begin to die when you squeze on the EGR valve. I also know that high mileage vehicles do need it serviced or replaced. Not only does it get carboned up, but I hear the spring gets weak. It stands for Oxygen Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve. I don't however think it can make that much of a difference. Exhaust Oxygen Sensor (commonly called O2 sensor) is probably more responsible, and I think should be a part of a tune up. It screws into the exhaust near the catalytic converter. You have to raise the car to replace it. 7/8" deep socket is what you need, maybe Power PB blaster if it won't come off easily. In your specific case, I don't know. Probably some sensor like said above, or a thermostat? T-stats do go lazy. But, it could be that you have two different problems - one with temperature and the other with acceleration. It seems doubtful to me that it not getting warmed up can cause performance problems. But maybe I am wrong. Maybe the ECM thinks it is always in cold mode. Do you run rich also? I.e. Poor MPG?

Maybe you could try asking on alt.autos.subaru? rec.autos.tech is another good one.

I will be darned -- I pulled the plugs as it just had to be ignition and found out that I bent one of the spark plugs so that there was no gap _at all_. I gapped it to 0.040 per owner's manual and it runs great, as well as 1.8L can run. (their range was 0.039-0.043") I don't know how it happened, I don't recall dropping it. I think I am going to check the other 3 plugs. Thankfully.

Did 80's carbed models come with an O2 sensor? I know it can be a real acceleration/mpg killer. Same for EGR valve. Probably not the case here. The fact that it runs rich should be an indication of something.

1992 Loyale, 1.8L SPFI, 3-speed, 185,000 miles First, the power steering pipe got loose, and all the fluid burst out of there. I didn't know and drove like that for maybe 60 highway miles. I did notice that turning was different, harder and I knew it had something to do with it but I wanted to get home first. Next, I add some regular power steering fluid. Then I realize it takes Dextron ATF fluid but haven't drained it yet. Right now when I turn, it makes these noises. The next day, the idle is rough, the tach is jumping up and down and acceleration is poor and it does accelerate in a strange fashion, the tach kind of moves up and down. I am only writing about the above power steering because the fluid was sprayed over everything in the engine bay and I wonder if it got somewhere where it shouldn't be. Or could it be that the power steering pump is gone and it somehow interferes with driving? But, it does sound like an ignition problem and just happened to coincide with above. What could it be? I am ruling out EGR valve and O2 sensor, I think these make a difference at higher speeds, not at idle/15mph. Could it be the catalytic converter? The car has 185K miles on the body and parts, 90K on the engine and 20K on tranny. Even if EGR/O2 sensor are bad, it is doubtful they are root cause because this happened so suddenly. The other thing that I did before this idle/acceleration started, I checked compression in the cylinders and I accidently left a brass fitting from the end of the compression tool hose screwed in the cylinder. Then I screwed in the spark plug into that fitting, with the plug wire and tried to crank the engine. It made this strange noise. I realized the plug didn't look right - it sat too far out, so I removed it, then unscrewed the compression tester fitting and re-installed everything correctly. (After this BTW, the compression tool ceased to work and registers 0 on all cylinders.) Could I have messed up my timing somehow? I get knocking at higher speeds which I didn't have just the day before? Does bad timing cause rough idle? Also, I replaced the big rubber thing (Air intake) which fits on top of the throttle body, which says "Subaru FI" in big letters. The old one was cracked on top. P.S. I think it might be missing, because the exhaust sounds a bit different, sometimes irregular.

oh, and you DID use dexron ATF and not "power steering fluid," didn't you? Whoops, no I didn't. How do I flush it out? Is that the cause of the noise? Do I still have to change the power steering pump? Or should I try using Dextron ATF first?

Today I noticed that a metal hose for the power steering pump was disconnected and the fluid was leaking out. Once I tighted it, no more came out. I filled it up. Once I started driving, especially making turns, I hear this noise. Turns are noisy, especially if I hit gas while doing it. My question is, have I damaged something by driving apparently without any power steering fluid at all for about 60 miles? Is the power steering pump bad now? Or is it because I overfilled it? (it didn't look like it)

It is a 3-speed auto. I usually keep it at 3100 rpms.

I found out by the burning smell under the hood. Look in there and the pink fluid is everywhere. Steering is harder, especially at lower speeds. (92 Loyale, EA82)

Ever 30,000? that's religious change. I will replace mine. It doesn't seem to run that rich, about 29mpg, but I think it can do better than that.

It doesn't appear to have coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. Nor does it appear to be using coolant. I think I will just leave it alone though I am slightly worried about lower compression on the driver's side. Would it make sense to pull compression when the engine is hot, maybe it will run higher?