viceversa

92 Loyale with EA82 What is the RPMs speed for optimum mileage? Where do the HP and torque curves intersect? What is the final front axle ratio? I have rough idle, am I correct in thinking that it is probably the EGR valve which hasn't been touched in 185K miles? How often should it be replaced/cleaned? Oxygen sensor - how often does that get replaced? I have an original one, as far as I know. I heard one estimate that O2 sensors get lazy after 80K miles. It still gets close to 30mpg, but can it do better? I typically cruise at 3300 RPMs, which means 55-60 mph.

OK, but in general, do you care about OK compression numbers? What are the consequences of lower compression? Less power, lower mpg? I should also mention that it consumes coolant. Does that have something to do with this past overheating incident? Could a cracked head or head gasket result in a leak? I am not exactly sure how much it consumes but I will keep track of it.

You got mail.... It might work for me

That's impressive mileage. I think you got your tokens out of it.

92 Loyale needs a new AC condenser. I found one from a 90 Loyale and I want to make sure that they are the same. Please advise on the matter.

... on my 92 Loyale which broke. Not the timing belts -- they got changed only 40 miles previous to the failure so that's what I suspected but I was wrong. It was the ECM!!! Car's brain. Never thought that would break, Hm, no moving parts in that thing, but apparently it did.

as one data point, we payed 5k for '92 when it was about 8 years old. and had 70K on it. Put 120,000 on it. with mileage, your price goes way down because everybody is afraid of high-mileage cars. I am not, but I would adjust the price. and make sure u get the repairs list.

I used regular dishwasher soap and rinsed lots of tmes with hot water. Then dried for a week. Surprisingly, it got better.

No way I would pay that much. Not with 230,000Mi It all depends on the market. I know here in central VA, I couldn't sell a vehilce like that for more than $200, maybe a bit more (just a bit). it will surely need major repairs within 6 months or much sooner. Trouble spots are: Tranny CV joints EA 82 engine crackes heads. If nothing has been fixed on it, don't offer more than $250. the only way I would pay the asking price is if they have a long list of repairs done on it.

Thanks

Yes! I printed them out. Thank you. I will see if they suffice. So why exactly are these timing belts breaking? does this sound like something typical that can happen? Something to do with tension?

I have a copy of the instructions from the FSM I just threw in the garbage. I could yank them out and fax or mail to you. I could explain the process but it is lengthy. Yes, I desperately need the instructions also! You have PM with my address. I will reimburse you for shipping. Soo.. you never actually said what is happening.. Are the new belts breaking? Yes! They are breaking as in "It would momentarily hault rotation and in turn, rip off a series of belt teeth" I've seen them.

I did not install the engine myself - I payed a shade tree mechanic $200 to do it, plus parts like timing belts. They were new and lasted 2 months. He put a new (second) set 2 days ago - and it drove for an hour. Same thing for second time. Had to walk to a pay phone for miles. In retrospect, I wish I had done the whole thing myself even though it would have taken me longer. Anyway, I am really frustrated. Is there a web page or something which is explicit about timing belts. He obviously doesn't know how to install them if I experienced 2 failures and I know even less than that.

Yes, I do, but the best mechanic is the one you see in the mirror. I didn't have the time to mess with it, but next time, I surely will. Armed with FSM, I can do lots of things, it's just that half the time it turns into a huge learning experience. I think that specific head gasket was original with 90K miles on it. It had good compression before I bought it and after the overheat episode, came from 150 psi to 90 psi. I haven't noticed any difference in performance or anything else.

I got a EA82 motor out of a parts car, and had a shade tree mechanic install it. He didn't connect some coolant line by the water pump and all the coolant leaked out, overheating the car. I pulled compression and the driver's side showed about 85, and passenger's side somewhat higher. So the heads are obviously cracked.He is willing to redo the heads but problem the owner of the Loyale is real busy. Is that a real problem? The car drives nicely without any apparent problems. I think he also installed the timing chains wrong because they broke the other day, stranding the car. <sigh> He re-installed them but don't know if correctly.

1992 Loyale with 1.8L engine. Any info would be appreciated.

I had this motor put in by a shade-tree mechanic who doesn't really know foreign cars, I think. These timing belts are new. How does one properly install them? If the distributor does not rotate you have one of three things. The first, and most common, is a broken timing belt, which is likely if the belt was not installed properly.

92 Loyale with 1.8L No ignition, so I took the distributor cap off and saw that the rotor doesn't turn when the engine cranks. Bad distributor or timing chains? The latter were installed 2 months ago and are new.

I got a 92 Subaru Loyale, also red and also from NY and also in the same condition, as a parts car for my 92 Loyale. Used engine and other stuff. That's all you can do it with yours. Drive it, then part it out. Or find a good body and use it as a parts car.

It got fixed, it was the CV joints. Unfortunately I wasn't involved in the process, otherwise I would have told them to install a whole new axle which I have.

92 Loyale, 180K miles (newer tranny & engine) At really low speeds of 10-15mph, I hear this fairly loud clicking sounds from under the car. It is not the exhaust or engine related. Above about 20mph, it disappears. It drives as normal, nothing is noticeable. Any idea what's going on here? CV joints wore out?

It is an automatic with EA82 1.8L SPFI engine, 1992 Loyale throttle body injection.

1992 Loyale with SPFI

After the engine install, I have a vacuum line which is loose and I don't know where it plugs in. It is less than 1/4" thick and it sucks air in. It forms a "T" with another line which goes from transmission to a sensor on the engine block. This T is near the EGR valve, somewhat in front and to the left of it. With this line loose, the engine doesn't idle and dies at every stop light unless I keep the RPMs high. When I plug it with something, the engine idles better but has a hard time starting and sometimes dies anyway. Whether I plug it or not, it runs good at highway speeds. I have both Chiltons and Haynes manuals and I looked at their vacuum diagrams but cannot figure out what this is.

After the vehicle cooled overnight, I pulled compression on it. Passenger's side: 125 and 115. Driver's side: 75 and 90. Sounds like the heads need to come off and re-installed. It should be way higher than this. What's the normal compression? 175? The last time I pulled compression on this engine, I got 175 on the driver's side. Before the engine got installed. Another question: There is a hose that's disconnected and I cannot figure out where it should be plugged in. It is a T to a hose running from the transmission to the engine block. That T is right near the EGR valve, slightly ahead of it. It about 1/4" in diameter and it is sucking air in. Without it, the car seems to idle poorly.