viceversa

No, it is not a heater hose. It is a 5/8" fuel hose as far as I understand. Pretty thick. But not as hard as the OEM one.

I use normal NKG plugs from Autozone/etc. and have no problems at all. FWIW

It took me 3 days to remove mine and that's with the help of the forum. Without it, I wouldn't have removed it at all. However, after the first time, you can remove it it in 3 hours, I think. Once you see the gory details - it is easy. One tip: Need lots of PB Blaster on these rusty bolts. May take you a while to remove the exhaust for that reason. Get a long breaker bar too. Installing it is more difficult. While at it, change heads and head gaskets, maybe timing belts. I payed some shade tree mechanic $200 to installl it, I think it is worth it. Could have done it myself but it would have taken me forever (where does this hose go to?) Too many hoses and wires to connect and not that much room in there. Although admittedly, it is one of the easiest FWD cars to work on.

_Resolution_ I pulled the headlights out, and saw that the driver's side one had the up-down screw loose. I fixed that but it still didn't help. So I loosened it, test drove - better. The right headlight was also pointing downwards with no visible damage to anything, which leads me think that something more than the screws was bent. I adjusted the right headlight also - problem solved and the car is driveable at night. I don't really care to investigate what was bent beyond the screws, but something surely is. It's rather easy to remove the headlights except that the driver's side has one bolt which is not easy to get to. Neither my 3/8" drive ratchet worked nor 1/4" drive. Ultimately had to use a open end wrench, which was slow. The extension was too long and without the extension, not long enough. I really needed a 1" extension for the 1/4" drive socket. Luckily, I have sockets sets for both 3/8" and 1/4" drivers.

I replaced it. I got a genuine OEM one from europarts4auction on ebay, in case anyone needs something. Indeed, it needed 19mm wrench to get it out. Once I got it going, it was a 1-minute swap. The old one did not seem bad at all. It was shaking and loose inside which indicates it was still working. But with 190,000 miles on the car, I had no way of knowing. Now the bad news is, I cracked the PCV hose. It did get hard as a rock, don't know if by design or after 12 years of engine heat. In any case, it is gone. I tried to cut one end off and reuse it, but no luck. Had to go to Advanced Auto parts and got this 5/8" hose, which was curved wrong and barely fit without bending. Not entirely sure it will work but I got it in there. It did however require a hose clamp on the PCV valve end. It did cost $15 for such a small piece. I might have an OEM one laying around somewhere.

Yeah, it is the best in its class. I would assume more stuff is broken on it than you are aware of and adjust the price accordingly. That's not Loyale specific - true with any used car you buy. I personally believe in full disclosure. When I sell my old cars, I disclose as much as I can. It sets a good trend and if others follow it, you benefit as well.

Also should mention that I think most of the impact was against the bumper. Some against headlights and even the hood is bent in one place, very slightly.

I would not worry about rust, it has zero impact on driving. Unless you cannot pass inspection. 4wd adds something to the price. Stick takes something from the price because nobody wants it. The car did feel very very slow though, but even though I was accelerating up one hill very slowly the car felt like it was really pulling hard. EA82 engine is succeptible to cracked heads if overheated. Check compression on all 4 cylinders before you buy it. They should all be around 150 psi and not less than 125 psi. This will tell you more than anything. My Loyale runs very fast with the newer engine I got in it, with 95K miles. (190 on the body). Never "slow". Something is wrong. Are all cylinders working? All sensors? I would offer somewhere between 500 and $1000, I think. Even despite lower miles. If compression pulls okay, you can drive it for another 100K miles, if the body can take it. These things are a dime a dozen - although a manual + 4wd + wagon is a difficult combo to find. I have 92 wagon with 2wd and auto. I also got a 92 wagon which was 4wd auto with under 100K for $200, but its tranny wasn't working so I used it as a parts car. It was also from North and rusty.

The whole front end??? I don't know what you mean by that. I am looking for a simple solution. But if that's the case, the only viable solution is to adjust the headlights with the screws to point higher. Still, I find it hard to believe, because there is nothing wrong with it driving-wise. I had an alignment and it drives excellently. Doesn't shake, doesn't pull to ether side, the mileage is the same, etc. The weird thing is, I only got the driver's side headlight hit but they both seem to be pointing lower - at both settings. And it didn't get broken due to the impact. Maybe something more fundamental than the headlight casing got bent.

On 92 Loyale I had an encounter with a large dog a few weeks ago. Not enogh time to do anything and it ended up hitting the front of the car and destroyed the grille. I got another one, but now it appears that the headlights aren't working right, they are too low, both on low and high beams. High beam looks like it is low. The car is barely driveable at night because at speeds like 55, the headlights don't cover enough important distance. So I think that the headlights were somehow bent downwards. Is that possible? If so, how do un-bend them to their original position? I don't want to adjust the screws because first, they are hard to reach and I don't want to take out the headlights, and second, that's not the real problem.

PCV valve. (OEM)

My Loyale was attacked by a large beast who busted the grille. I got another one, and painted it with a Walmart paint called "Pure white" As it turns out, it looks too white. Not bad of a match, and not really visible, but I wonder if I should repaint it to match the real color. What it is, anyway?

auto takes 6qt FWIW

i found a loyale automatic 2wd with 55k original miles and i'm trying to convince this kid that he can get a way better car for $750-1000. i know he can't, but he doesn't need to know that. I will take this in jest.... IMO, the most cost effective thing to do is to get another engine from a parts car. That's what I did. I got a whole parts car with 90K miles for $200. Had to drive 700 miles to get it, and pay for towing and gas. But, 1.8L engine ran about $600 everywhere I looked so that was a good deal. I used some other parts from the car, sold the rest. The old engine had 185K miles, and I was told it was running on 3 cylinders. Barely moving the car, although it could have been a simple problem. It was drinking oil and I got fed up fixing it and just another one installed, including all the EFI stuff. Really, these cars are so inexpensive that in many cases, if there is any rust, or dents, just junk the old beater. On a not too old Caddy or Mercedes or something, I would definitely rebuild but a Loyale? You can do it, but it is not cost-effective.

Am I missing something --- I am able to store a full size spare just fine under there. Heat is of some concern - not sure what long-term consequences it may have. One problem with the tire there is that the tranny stick is not eaisily accessible, I have to remove the tire to check tranny fluid.

It is not cost-effective to fix it. Just part it out. Get another Subaru on ebay. Lots of good deals for a few hundred. Of course you do have the option of fixing it. Find an engine - where else - on ebay and have someone install it. If you have never done it, the learning curve is too steep. I have been fixing minor things on cars like alternators, water pumps but removing and installing an engine is a lot of work. This summer it took me 5 days to remove mine from Loyale. Then I payed $200 to a shade tree mechanic to install a parts car engine. I got a whole parts car for $200 with low miles. If the rest of the car is in good shape - no rust, dents, and you like it, you could fix it. Keep in mind all the money you invest will not pay off in resale value. Just too many variables which determine what to do, like mileage on the axles and tranny, etc. On my 92 loyale, I have an almost new tranny and a engine with 95K miles but the rest is closer to 190K miles.

Generic O2 sensor from autozone=$30 seems to work ok. I don't particularly trust generic stuff, to be honest.

Not sure how many miles I have on mine, it could even be original with 185,000 miles. I heard that the O2 sensor goes bad after about 80K miles. It either doesn't work or gets lazy. I still get decent mileage in this 92 loyale (auto) - 29 mpg on highway only, but I wonder if I can improve that by getting a new sensor installed. Secondly, where do you get a new O2 sensor? An online source? Any O2 sensor stories?

It wasn't mine at the time and the driver never checked tranny fluid, and I didn't either. It must have slowly lost all of it. Never - as in not once in several years with lots and lots of miles driven. In fact, I am not even sure it totally broke - I don't know if they had added fluid to it it might have started shifting again. I wasn't present. None of the service stations/oil change places checked it either. All these quick-lube places are worthless. Now it has a 2nd tranny in it - I myself haven't checked it in about 6 months/1 year and noticed it was 1 qt low. I added it and all seems OK. That's how I found out that '92 Loyale consumes tranny fluid. Now I check all the fluids religiously on all vehicles I have: 1) oil 2) coolant 3) tranny 4) brake 5) differential - that is, front differential on loyale

My introduction to the world of Subarus was via 92 Loyale, 2wd. Learned a lot about the car, even took out the engine myself (admittedly couldn't have done it without the help on this forum) Do wonder however, if eventually I should move up to Legacy, I am thinking something from '92-95. Advantages/disadvantages? I understand these 10 year old vehicles have depreciated shaprly where you can get some awesome deals.

I service 4 vehicles, 3 domestic and 1 Subaru. 2 metric, and 2 SAE. I have: Sockets set - metric and SAE, shallow and deep. 3/8" ratchet, 1/4" ratchet 1/2" breaker bar Open end wrenches. The most valuable tool you can have is Factory Service Manual. For all my cars but Subaru, I have every manual they ever made. FSM, Chiltons, Haynes, etc. It is a must-have.

I still haven't done anything with it. It is kind of whiny at low speeds when turning but the power steering still works. I will probably take care of it in the next month or so.

Today it hesitated a bit shifting into 2nd, but now it is fine. The vehicle was cold, outside was 30F, maybe connected to that. I will report if I see any more problems.

Got it. I have one in a parts car. Here is the super long thread on that matter To check and or replace the resistor block- look under the glove box toward the fire wall and up The resistors sit in the air stream of the heater duct and the unit is held with three screws Two of which are obvious the third is one one of the motor mount screws. The wire colors are blue, blue/blk, blue/yel and blue/white. Last time I checked the dealer wanted about 60 bucks for a new one. The blower switches themselves do go bad but it is more likely the resistor block.

MMO? I put 1 qt of Dextron III tranny fluid in it. That's right it is an auto.