ryverrat

Don't keep trying to adjust it - the computer will just keep re-adjusting it for you to compensate for the underlying problem. Check the PCV valve- have see a few cause high idles because of stick- specially after doing top end cleaning. Here's a trick to look for vacuum leaks- take throttle body cleaner and spray along vacuum lines- watch for change in idle- if it changes, that's where the leak is at. Don't forget to check the gasket at the throttle body itself . Another common cause of poor idle is the throttle body being dirty around where the plate seats in the body- take cleaner and a soft tooth brush to clean it. The deposits stop the plate from fully seating and let extra air past - computer adds fuel to compensate. This is very common on vehicles that are driven around town mostly (city vs. highway miles).

I looked at the codes the car threw- First if cylinder 3 has a misfire, it is likely cause in the catalytic converter below threshold code- and bank 1 means the front cat, and bank 2 is the rear cat. converter- this is standard for all OBD II vehicles- almost never truly refers to the cylinders (don't believe anything Autozone or Advance Auto tells you they don't know anything- I have been working on cars for 17 years and have all but my tranny ASE cetifications so I know what the code really mean). Also cat converter really don't go bad that often- takes physical damage or severe loading with fuel to melt them down (unless some one was using additives in the fuel that are not sensor safe - can coat cat too but this is no common anymore - more of a 1980's problem) O2 sensors which the computer relies on to check the cat do go bad- pretty cheap and easy to fix ($100 or under versus $500+ for a cat). Don't let a misfire go too long - this is the most common reason for catalytic converter failure because the leftover fuel goes in the converter and melts it down (overheats converter). I have seen dealers get out of warranty on converters because people left a misfire go for a long time on a vehicle and then could not pass emissions due to a converter code and the misfire- the misfire destroyed the converter- that's not covered under the federally required warranty on converter. The code that could be causing more of the running and overheat issue (and can cause misfire) is the EGR code- EGR could be getting stuck open (stuck shut doesn't cause the same noticeable driveability problem- just codes and these valves default to a normally closed position unless stuck), allow too much very hot exhaust gases back in the cylinders- not enough fresh air for fuel to burn correctly= misfire and cat. codes, plus exhaust gases are hotter and will cause the temp to rise=overheat or long fan run at idle. To check the valve if it is stuck, make sure the car is cold, put your finger in where the diaphragm is and press the pin in- if it doesn't move it most likely has carbon stuck in it You may be able to remove the valve (use a flare wench for the pipe fitting to prevent stripping it- not sure of size but I am guessing 17mm most likely) and clean the valve and check in the pipe for carbon (if you can get the pipe off- not easy and a PITA to get back on-clean it out too). EGR valve commonly get carbon in them - especially if ran around town a lot then taken out on the highway and ran fast. A chunk of carbon can break off and jamb the valve open. You can clean them with intake cleaner - set the valve so you can fill it with the cleaner and let it sit for a while, then work the pin for the valve in and out - if it won't move, these's carbon stuck in it that didn't dissolve. Dump out the cleaner, and use a rubber mallet to hit the valve on the body- not really hard- just enough to jar the carbon loose (more hits are better that really hard hit at loosening it up- but don't be too afraid). Then turn the valve over and try to shake out the carbon piece- once it is out, fill with cleaner again, let sit, empty and let dry totally (takes about 1 hr. for cleaner to evaporate - make sure you shake out as much cleaner as possible). Reinstall using new vacuum line to it and the back pressure transducer (the black plastic valve immediately in front of the EGR - it controls the EGR but not common for going bad- vacuum lines do go bad). Run the vehicle for a few days- clear the codes first by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes - if it still is having an issue with the EGR code you may need to replace the valve - bad diaphragm. I don't know if you would want to jump to a parts replacement right away- valves can be pricey (about $200 from NAPA) and the cleaning takes time but is cheap ($20 for a flare wrench and $10 for cleaner and vacuum hose). Hope this helps.

Don't ever use the GM Injector cleaner in the tank- will destroy pump seals. I used to work as a GM tech. GM dealers use a setup to put the cleaner in the fuel rail near the injectors to clean the injectors (bad design - would clog up with some brands of gas- mostly the regional chains). Top engine cleaner can't go in either - the injector cleaner and top engine are two different products. If you have the top engine it can be use to clean the carbon out of the valves and in the heads-run the engine until warm, just disconnect a vacuum hose to the intake and put it in the can (if it is not spray can) with the engine running. Be prepared to rev the engine to keep it running. let the last 1/4 can stall the engine. Then let is sit overnight- will be little hard to start in the morning but it will remove any carbon in there and your whole neighborhood will think you are having the largest BBQ ever (no joking- smells like 100 BBQ grills lit all at once- if you neighbors are picky- don't do this in the summer or park a few blocks away)

New rainX blades are junk- just got a 99 OBW with them and the snow just cakes into them- cleaned the windshield well before using the wipers and cleaned the wipers too-but definitely not good if you live in a snow area.

Go with the axle- anytime the boots rip, junk gets in there and it is almost always caused some damage that you might not find until later (especially since you mentioned towing). Besides have you ever tried to get the new axle grease off of anything (even if you wear gloves that stuff will get on your skin somewhere and is a pain in the butt to get off- I just get remanufactured axles or new if the price is good when I do mine-hate that grease)

Is the noise a knock or a tap- if it is tapping the hydraulic lifters may have bled down from sitting so much. As far as the screeching- check the alternator/PS pump belt- may have gotten a little oil on it, could need adjustment/replacement. True knocking from the oil pan area means the oil pump could have lost it's prime and is not picking up oil (not that common on Subarus but does happen during rebuild on some GM engines).

Ok so most of the swaps done look like they have been AT cars. My question is has anyone done a MT vehicle and what issues were encountered. Little background on what I am planning: Swapping the EJ25 out of my '99 Outback with manual trans. Going to look for a 95-96 EJ22 engine (if the 91 EJ22 will fit I know exactly were to get it- please let me know) or a newer EJ22 (so I can swap the EJ25 intake over) Primary concern - will an engine from an AT match up (I know to swap the flywheel) and will the starter fit? Or do I have to get the engine from a MT vehicle? I am very proficient at engine swapping in Subarus- can have one out in under 3 hours (do it to replace clutches- much easier than dropping the tranny) so I have no problem with the idea of a swap- just want to know what items to look at to match up the engines.