kerandt

I just used this write-up. Answers everythng. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ Great write-up.

Any moisture in your disty cap? I've also experienced weak spark (no start) from bad grounds. Particularly the coil not being mounted solid to the frame.

I thought I'd mention I first tried a set of 14" Mazda 6 lugs and found the center hole was just too tight to fit on the back. So instead I found these Nissan wheels (also 14"). I put 185/70/R14 on them. Hopefully the photos show some of the offset. Car is stock (no lift). As mentioned, I took the wheels in to Schwab loose, they mounted and balanced, then I put 'em on myself. No issues so far. I did have a rear drum from another car with two studs knocked out for a template. I also had to hand file a tiny bit on a few of the new holes where the factory studs touched. I still have winter tires on the stock 13" and this makes it easier to go back and forth.

Greetings kharris12. So you pulled the motor and did the head gaskets and seals. Now drivers side is not firing. I would suspect timing, but if you've checked that then next thing I would do is the compression check. Could a rocker slide out of place when you mated the cam carrier to the head? This would cause compression loss out a valve.

Anyone ever try packing a snowmobile (well there's at least one who did). Internet photo.

Anyone have anything to say about the engine cranes HFT sells? I've been considering getting one. I'm no pro just a DIY maintenance guy. My garage is about 16' wide by 28' long but with a flat low ceiling. I don't think I have enough height for a chain hoist set up.

Pressure washer?

I believe it does have CC. Remember seeing some controls on the right side of the steering wheel. Ok probably not the issue then. Anyways thanks for the quick replies! Cleaned all the grounds and disconnected the CTS (tested bad), and swapped coil bracket. Car starts and runs for now. Might mess with the wire later to see if the CC works? Thanks again guys.

Can someone please explain the function/importance of the small plastic black box mounted on the left kick panel area, it is accessed behind the fuse panel and has a wide white connector with 14 wires (if I counted right). I picked up a DL 4WD wagon, SPFI, manufactured in 01/88. It dosen't run (yet). And there is a yellow wire w/ white stripe fished up through the top left portion of the firewall. Looks like they had it connected to something in the engine bay. Ground? Power? Anyways would like to know if it has anything to do with why the car currently isn't running. I believe it's a spark/electrical issue. Belts are good. Tried starting fluid. And have swapped out both the disty and coil from a running Loyale. Only trouble code is 21 (temp sensor circiut). Sorry no pics of the box It' hard to see in there! The wire in question (Ylw/wht) originates from this black box, so why was it brought into the bay?

Hey 175eya. Yeah that sucks. When a car becomes unreliable. Makes me nervous driving around. Paranoia sets in. Anyways what kind of trouble shooting have you done? When it quits have you shot a little starter fluid in the carb to confirm it is a fuel issue? I put a weber on my '87 wagon and added an in-line filter just before the carb so now it has two. The new filter you installed was it under the car by the pump? I did replace my pump a couple years ago after it left me stranded. Car just quit with no warning signs (mid winter?). Someone suggested it could be water freezing in the fuel. I ended up changing out the pump (Napa) and factory filter and she came back to life. Never really figured out what the actual problem was and that was before the weber was installed. Another note; my weber has a fuel cut-off solenoid does yours? Good luck with the trouble shooting!

Stupid double post

Greetings. You may or may not know that some guys redrill 6 lug wheels or hubs for more choices. Lots of posts on that subject if you're interested. And welcome!

If you have an electric fan mounted to the radiator the thermoswitch would go there. With a new radiator it would usually come with a plug there. Do you have an electric fan? Or just the one mounted to the water pump? Should have both if your car has AC. I've removed mine off the w pump and now only rely on the electric. Mainly so I have one less thing to remove to mess with the timing belt.

I think that is called a Red-line tune up. Possibly the most underrated cure for TOD? I baby my car. I must say I am impressed. Never drove an ea82 that would top 80 and my gf 3AT will barely go 70. Were you going down hill? Anyways. Drive it like you stole it.

For those interested in a DIY roof rack there are Quick N Easy mounts available. https://www.flickr.com/photos/minicab/16096945962/ I always planned to replace the wood with a piece of square tubing and paint everything black. I was lucky enough to find the feet 2nd hand so they were cheap. https://www.flickr.com/photos/minicab/15475353464/in/photostream/

What about the old style Thule or Yakima roof racks? They just attach to the gutters. Or you looking for a newer style "factory" look? I could show some pics of what I have but I'll have to wait for daylight. I did remove the trim to expose the gutter for installation.

Greetings. If your car doesn't heat up you may need to check your thermostat and or flush the heater core. As bratman2 suggested the electric fan is supposed to come on via the sensor on the backside of the radiator.

Howdy Acheeze. Well. . . Sounds like it needs a thorough tune up for sure. You could try some carb cleaner but it's likely need of a rebuild. Alot of guys go with a Weber carb replacement for their simplicity. That's what I did on my 87Gl when I had idling issues. Do you know if it sat awhile before you got it? Good gas? Fuel filter? I'd check timing also. Look at the throttle cable make sure it has a little slack and is not holding your idle up. Might try some Seafoam in your next fill up. And Welcome!

Was the fuel filter changed with the pump? What about "trouble codes"? Check engine light on or off?

My 87 GL fuel filter is under the car with the pump. Unfortunately I gave up on the stock carb and went with a Weber. Really is a simple set up in comparison. Nice looking rig. Don't see many that color.

Have you studied the Wheel Replacement Guide posts in the USMB repair section? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/108429-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-4wd-rear/ I've only had one experience changing out a rear bearing. There was a lot of banging and loud swearing. Luckily I had help. Good luck!

I've gotten by with a 1/2" breaker bar (IIRC). I do remember using the stock scissor jack to persuade the plug loose only once. Usually tapping the handle with a small sledge is enough. Never had any special socket or anything.

I've had a rocker arm roll out of place when mating the cam carrier on. Everything went together but the car ran extremely rough. Compression test found zero on the one cylinder. Anyways maybe you had the same thing happen? Luckily I was able to snap it back in place with only the valve cover off.

Well it sounds like there may be hope after all. I'm thinking I will have to inquire about the seal / o-ring at the dealer? I gave rockauto and napa on-line a quick search and it isn't real clear which ones I will need. I'm not going to be tearing into anything right away anyways. Thanks for the tips guys! Update: Did find some dimensions if someone could verify: I.D.(shaft) = 1.063" (27mm), O.D (house) = 1.777" (45mm), Width= 0.315" (8mm). And a couple part numbers: TIMKEN #222745, National #222745, NOK #J7043-180430, SKF# 10666, NOS (Napa) 10666, And . . .thanks for your time

Hey justajester. Have you jacked up the front and spun the wheels a little by hand? Might also be able to "feel" if one side or other has some slop/free play in the bearings this way.