kerandt

Hey suprunner. Sounds like your radiator is no longer doing it's job? Have you let it warm up, then shut off and feel the radiator for hot / cool spots? Basically feeling for areas that are not circulating well (cooler spots). Some guys even upgrade to a 2 row radiator for extra cooling.

Ok. Thank you! This means I have my '87 (ea82) a bit too far (approx 20). Surprisingly it seems to run fairly good (has a Weber carb though). Awesome. Thanks again!

Nice! Just curious though, what was the actual problem with the fan? Electric connection or the motor itself went bad? The fan on my Loyale seized up but I was able to pry the motor housing apart and lube the end of the shafts with some electric grease. To my surprise the thing came back to life (but not without a little squealing when it shuts down).

I just want to confirm what approx number a person should be shooting for with timing their Subaru. And now might be a good time to share any of those Timing "tricks" for those of use who have only done it a couple of times. I have been lead to believe the motor was the main factor in timing (as the title suggests). But with some of the more recent threads I have been reading it is suggested that fuel delivery is what determines what it should be. For example; models with SPFI = 20 degrees and those with a carb (ea81 AND ea82) would be closer to 8 degrees. Can we get some clarification on this? It actually kept me up part of the night thinking about this. Many thanks in advance! -Keith

Did you get your oil pressure back? Should be the longer wire you held in the video. On my GL it runs down along the dip stick to the oil sender unit. You probably just forgot you unplugged it? You're almost there! How's it feel?

Howdy desertsubaru. Some thick grease dabbed in the holes of the arms works well too. Hey whatever works right? Guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

On second thought the connections on the pumps are different. FI being smaller. So not likely they put on the wrong pump. But a pressure regulator could be to blame. So it looks like you will need to test the fuel pressure. Have you tried spraying starter fluid in the intake just to rule out no fuel as being the problem?

Hey MilesAway1980. Did you install the new fuel pump? Just wondering if a carb pump got put on instead of a FI one as the pressure requirements would be different.

Ahhh, the Trans Dapt 2107 . . . very nice. Just remember to get the short air filter as it is a tight fit closing the hood with the carb lifted.

That's areal bummer. Sorry to hear that. I'm glad everyone is ok though . . that's all that matters right?

Hi One Eye. You mentioned timing at 8*in the original post. Correct me if I'm wrong aren't EA-82's 20 degrees and EA-81's 8 degrees?

Is this what you mean (photo)? 10mm locks 12mm on clutch cable. 14mm bottom nut to hillholder.

Hey Moosen. Have you read this by chance? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206

Sorry, the fuel pump is under the car, rear passenger side. Look for the mounting plate the pump sits on. Filter should by right next to it. Can't remember which side of pump, it's been awhile. Good luck!

Look underneath by your fuel pump.

Interesting stuff. I have that "re-route kit" on my '93 Loyale and all this time I thought that was the factory set-up? Anyways the blue tee, although the same diameter as the black one, is necked down inside to about 1/4", in the middle where the 90 degree "T" is (f this makes sense). I guess that would be the "orifice" referred to. -Keith

Have you done a good pressure wash to clean things up? Might allow you to narrow done where that leak is? How is your cv boot on that side? You can do the easy stuff like valve covers, front seals with the motor in. Of course most would do these, plus the oil pump and water pump, with the timing belts. Sounds like you just need to keep "tinkering" and get to know things a little bit. Your code 35 is pretty common too. It's an emissions thing and shouldn't effect how the car runs. Hope this help.

I don't regret leaving mine off. How often do you pressure wash your engine? I maybe wash mine 2-3 times a year. I'm actually surprised how clean the belts stay (without the covers). I just like being able to see and inspect things without having to deal with the whole cover deal. -Keith

I ended up putting a used one on my Loyale (SPFI) for $40. Knock on wood, it's still going. I also bought a new replacement for my '87 wagon from Napa. It was around $60-70? But it is a carbed Ea82. Not sure about the pressure differences. I have read a few links about guys using a pump from? Say a F-150? Modified to fit of course.

Greetings Bobaloui. I think everyone who has had a car with that motor has experienced TOD (tick of death) as it is sometimes called. On my '93 Loyale it seemed to come on around 170k miles. At first it was my indicator to add a little oil and then it usually went away. Eventually I went to 10w-40 instead of 10w30. I also ran a 1/2 qt of transmission fluid in the motor for a short easy drive before a couple oil changes thinking it would "clean" things out a bit? Not totally convinced that did anything. Eventually did the front seals and oil pump o-ring with the last timing belts. Ticking sound on the passenger side still comes back, not steady, but off and on. I'm now at 211k and have gotten use to it. I don't know what kind of miles yours has or what you paid for it? For me I can only do so much to a $450 car. Good luck with the Loyale. And welcome to the board!

I'm interested in the front brush guard. Don't know what you'd want for it? Shipped to Missoula, MT 59801. Thanks Keith

'84 GL wagon, 196K '87 GL wagon, 152K '93 Loyale wagon 197K