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I completed it last night I replaced the hose with new and a new slave at first I still had issues but my wife came and she helped me out I was using a speed bleeder but I think what was happening was I opened the speed bleeder too much and air was getting in past the threads.. when I was pumping and about the time she came out to check on me the brake fluid was very foamy looking going up the tube into the bottle finally it was all clear about 5 min later and now the pedal feels better than before the CMC went out.

I was watching this video.. looks like I need to make sure I bench bleed..

Yeah I DO know the old one was acting up when I took the hard line off from the side and pumped nothing came out.... however when I fully took it off the car and pressed the rod in again brake fluid came out odd.. but I installed the new CMC I did not use the bleed screw on the front of it if that matters or not and I proceeded to bleed the slave the first night I spent about 2 1/2 hours and I still was not able to get a firm feel. I'm going to get a new hose since it's the original the slave is almost about a year old

Here is what I don’t get with a socket in the slave and clamped it’s hard. now before I changed the CMC it would be soft when cold but when it’s warm it’s firm. btw I’ve already rebuilt my motor so I’m good on no banjo bolts

How I did it was I opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and it has a speed bleeder installed and I started.. however I'm not sure if I opened it too much too little and I still had some resistance and the pedal would not stay down, the other way it would stay down and I had to pull it up. I also tried bleeding with the slave higher then the clutch master cylinder.. Still no change. I guess I will try it your way I did push in while the bleed screw was open but I did not close it between pushing it in.

On my ‘05 Lgt I have a new master Cylinder because the stock went out so I have a speed bleeder on the slave cylinder and what happens is when putting the stuff back I still have a very soft feeling clutch pedal. I took the slave off and made it the highest point and bled it again to no change. Also I put a socket in the slave and held it with a C clamp in which then did I get a firm pedal. I’m at a lost now of why I still can’t get a firm pedal.

I had posted this video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuiR4Tqbi3M It seems like the front wheel bearing I'm going to check which side but it seems I have shimmy in both directions when turning the wheel but it's more pronounced when turning to the left. I assume it should not be too hard to take the hub out of the front of the '05 Legacy GT

Is it 12 mm? I forgot to check I would check but my car is about 20 miles away. I'm like 90% sure it's 12mm but just want to make sure before I buy a offset wrench.

It's a new sensor but like I said I found the issue I had the purge solenoid and the CTS plugs mixed up. btw this is the sensor I installed not that it really matters https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-tx157

Also let me guess because it's showing as thinking it's hot then it's cutting back on fuel right?

I'll check the wire but if it's pinched pinched on what? What happens if you disconnect the wire it should read cold correct?

On my '05 Legacy GT I just installed I used a new ECTS connected it and the fans run on full and the gauge goes right to hot I don't understand what's going on.. that's the only issue I have right now.

Thanks, btw nice to see you back!

Without the engine harness connected? I'm trying to get a new upgraded fuel pump installed before I drop in my motor however I don't recall if the fuel pump will run when you turn the key to on without the engine harness connected?

Yep they had the bolts! only one little thing was I should of got 3 of the 50 mm long bolts because of the idler pulley next to the TB tensioner but the rest fit fine I can get the one on and do the belt and install the other bolt before I put the main cover on