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I completed it last night I replaced the hose with new and a new slave at first I still had issues but my wife came and she helped me out I was using a speed bleeder but I think what was happening was I opened the speed bleeder too much and air was getting in past the threads.. when I was pumping and about the time she came out to check on me the brake fluid was very foamy looking going up the tube into the bottle finally it was all clear about 5 min later and now the pedal feels better than before the CMC went out.

I was watching this video.. looks like I need to make sure I bench bleed..

Yeah I DO know the old one was acting up when I took the hard line off from the side and pumped nothing came out.... however when I fully took it off the car and pressed the rod in again brake fluid came out odd.. but I installed the new CMC I did not use the bleed screw on the front of it if that matters or not and I proceeded to bleed the slave the first night I spent about 2 1/2 hours and I still was not able to get a firm feel. I'm going to get a new hose since it's the original the slave is almost about a year old

Here is what I don’t get with a socket in the slave and clamped it’s hard. now before I changed the CMC it would be soft when cold but when it’s warm it’s firm. btw I’ve already rebuilt my motor so I’m good on no banjo bolts

How I did it was I opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and it has a speed bleeder installed and I started.. however I'm not sure if I opened it too much too little and I still had some resistance and the pedal would not stay down, the other way it would stay down and I had to pull it up. I also tried bleeding with the slave higher then the clutch master cylinder.. Still no change. I guess I will try it your way I did push in while the bleed screw was open but I did not close it between pushing it in.

On my ‘05 Lgt I have a new master Cylinder because the stock went out so I have a speed bleeder on the slave cylinder and what happens is when putting the stuff back I still have a very soft feeling clutch pedal. I took the slave off and made it the highest point and bled it again to no change. Also I put a socket in the slave and held it with a C clamp in which then did I get a firm pedal. I’m at a lost now of why I still can’t get a firm pedal.

I had posted this video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuiR4Tqbi3M It seems like the front wheel bearing I'm going to check which side but it seems I have shimmy in both directions when turning the wheel but it's more pronounced when turning to the left. I assume it should not be too hard to take the hub out of the front of the '05 Legacy GT

Is it 12 mm? I forgot to check I would check but my car is about 20 miles away. I'm like 90% sure it's 12mm but just want to make sure before I buy a offset wrench.

It's a new sensor but like I said I found the issue I had the purge solenoid and the CTS plugs mixed up. btw this is the sensor I installed not that it really matters https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-tx157

Also let me guess because it's showing as thinking it's hot then it's cutting back on fuel right?

I'll check the wire but if it's pinched pinched on what? What happens if you disconnect the wire it should read cold correct?

On my '05 Legacy GT I just installed I used a new ECTS connected it and the fans run on full and the gauge goes right to hot I don't understand what's going on.. that's the only issue I have right now.

Thanks, btw nice to see you back!

Without the engine harness connected? I'm trying to get a new upgraded fuel pump installed before I drop in my motor however I don't recall if the fuel pump will run when you turn the key to on without the engine harness connected?

Yep they had the bolts! only one little thing was I should of got 3 of the 50 mm long bolts because of the idler pulley next to the TB tensioner but the rest fit fine I can get the one on and do the belt and install the other bolt before I put the main cover on

Thank you man I very much appreciate it the shipping from a dealer would be so much.. me without transportation right now would still end up not worth it.. lucky I kept some bolts.. but all the bolts I ordered in my last order of $300 in bolts were all bolts for the transmission to motor mounting.. Thank for the tip on the hardware store I forgot I have one within walking distance I think I did the same thing you said I had to use them in a hurry back when I had my 2nd Gen Legacy.

Yes it is as for this motor one idler bearing connects with the bracket along with the TB tensioner. I can't put my timing belt on because I have no bolts to put the bracket on

I found some now I just need the three bolts for the TB bracket the part number I'm seeing for the 3 bolts is 800708460 which it states it's 8X55X20 I assume it's a M8 bolt that's 20mm but what's the 55 part?

Great now it's hard to find a flange bolt in that size.. you can never win

Does anyone know of the bolt sizes for the timing belt components including the idlers pulley's and all for the Ej255?

I'm referring to the bolts that mount the bracket to the motor and not the tensioner it's self.. does anyone know what size the bolts are?

On my Ej255 heads for cylinder 1 the exhaust valve is a little tight. trying to figure out the whole how to get the right shim bucket ordered if I can't mix and match.. my exhaust valves are tight on the passenger head for cylinder 1 the spec is 0.30 mm +/- 0.5 mm Right now for that exhaust valve only a 0.18 mm feeler fits under the cam lobe base what i'm getting at is how to find out the correct cam I need to order? I don't 100% get how the FSM is trying to find out the replacement bucket.. OK so this is what I have.. 0.16 mm is what I checked which clears with the bucket that was installed.. under the bucket was "499" It's measurement is 4.96 mm going by what they say I need a shim that's now 5.11 mm?? wont that be a thicker shim which would further unseat the valve from the head?

^ lol stupid me sorry head bolts 1/2" socket is fine I keep getting confused with the case halves and those recessed bolts.

For the head bolts on the ej255 if I remember right a 1/2" socket won't fit where the bolts are in the water jacket right? It seems it's hard to find a 3/8" in 12 point in that size unless the online search is not showing all the sizes

I'm trying to see if I can use a transmission from the MY '06-'07 Tribeca