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video uploading now, I just don't get it.. meanwhile here is a picture how it's installed http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7659/t2x6.jpg holy crap haha I saw what the issue was.. too embarrassed to tell but it was the hose clamp for the heater bypass lol I guess that's what happens when you are up for over 10 hours...

His is way shorter mine has about a 1 inch gap. .. I don't get it never had a issue doing the thermostat before until now. When I get back home I will show a picture

Odd.. I added a new gasket and I have a Aisin water pump with the OEM thermostat so, after I put the gasket on the T-stat I tried to put the cover on and the pointy end of the thermostat was hitting the plastic housing of the t-stat cover.. I don't get it.. I pushed the thermostat in as far as it goes and still would not mate up.. Anyone know why?

Holy crap.. I had no problem picking up the ej25 shortblock.. but went to pull the ej22 out of the wagon and it was a shortblock as well and I had a little struggle it for sure feels a bit heavier.

EJ22e/Ej25d hybrid

This is the Ej25d and the piston for cylinder #2

Wow well it was a slow start.. my friend was back and forth between his job and helping me.. I did get the ej25 out and cylinder 2 is where the bearing is bad.. in the video you will see, when the piston is at TDC you have some pretty big play in the piston in which it's able to be pushed down. As of right now I have the two short blocks in the back of the car it sucks rump roast that its dark around 4:30 PM however that did not stop me from doing what I needed to do, in the morning I will get around to putting the heads on.. Now about those heads.. well long story sort I have a total of 3 sets of heads, the set I took off was the heads I got from a guy from PA, the cam cap bolt bound in the hole and snapped! I was like %^$%^&^ So I have another set of heads in storage but one has bent valves which I think is the passenger side (The side that has broken bolt) SO now I need to double check to make sure and if it's bent then I need to swap valves over and check valve clearance.. So that's what really slowed me down tonight which really sucked.

damn I wish I had a open space like that to work!

Yeah I knew about that.. but in the case for me I will be using this http://www.amazon.com/Industries-MV50-SuperFlow-High-Volume-Compressor/dp/B000BM8RT8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t?ie=UTF8&colid=1NH884YY0W7K2&coliid=I1JU48AB9K8DED I plan on taking my car on some soft sand this year so while it's not a fully empty tire it's better then waiting 10 min for one tire!

I'm using stock Outback sized tires for the winter and will be switching to 205/55R16 for the summers, also my spare is going to be 205/55R16 as well it fits a little funny where the stock tire is, i'm pretty sure you have to store it without air.

It's taken me a little longer then I had planned, I got sidetracked plus we had really record cold weather and snow The worst was I had just put my engine lift back in storage about 8 miles from where the car is now.. so I need my friend with his minivan to fetch it for me lol Out of all this happy I got my Milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact wrench, it was $268 well spent way better then my Ni-cad batteries at least this one does not lack in power for sure LOL having said that it would of been insane to just drop this engine in and run it, that cylinder would of screwed up the rings bigtime.. Anyways this will be part one, the more serious stuff will be more around the summer... piggyback engine management and all Still don't know how that new Aisin water pump had no thermostat gasket in the box.. I ended up having to buy one for almost $7

That's good to hear!

Yeah resetting is a good idea to do, when I got my car I had 3 codes as well, and one of them I remember saying it was the G-Sensor.. I reset the codes and the only code that stuck was the right rear ABS sensor, I finally replaced it this past summer as I finally scored a good price on it (Right rear seems to be the most $$) and turns out the ABS sensor wire where the little boot goes had a short in it. But the effect it had on the car was crazy, the brake pedal would get rock hard solid or the ABS will work for a few miles then just stop or not work at all upon starting the car.

LOL the gauge works but I forgot when you turn the key to on it primes the fuel lines.. and I had nothing connected to the hose so it was pouring all over my motor I have to take out haha I was sitting in the car thinking what the hell is that sound. It should be super easy to pull the motor it's sitting bare in the engine bay and just need to remove all the bolts that mount it to the transmission and crossmember. i ended up getting a new hose at the auto store for the coolant throttle body as it was getting a little soft, going to have to do the same for the fuel but when it gets warmer.. I've been documenting pretty much the whole time I've done this so when everything is done I will put it all as one video

To make things easy you can find sites that sell the line and the plug as a kit as well.. around $25 I think it was, I'm about to hook the jump starter up to make sure the gauge is all set then just wire in the sender tomorrow.. speaking of that that reminds me I need to get some smaller heat shrink tubing.

You have to look for the ABS connector under the dash, you cant get a code reader to scan them because it's a separate system You can clear the codes to start fresh but if the same codes come up again then you know what you need to have fixed.

Yes it's for a oil pressure gauge, got it from here http://prosportgauges.com/52mm-electrical-oil-pressure-gauge.aspx Remember to get the oil gallery kit as the sender will not just thread right in to the stock areas.

Crap job wont let me take off tomorrow so hopefully I can be done delivering by 12 and get home by 2 pm.. Meanwhile I decided to take the heads off In it's place will be my '97 DOHC cams to somewhat lower the compression a little bit since in the summer I plan on doing a build.. you can already see how much thicker the cylinder walls are. Ahhh cylinder 3 has some surface rust which I had a feeling at least one of them would have it.

If I ever do it it would have to be with the engine in the car, as I said before my car is in a open parking lot.. besides I heard you can damage your crank bearings just going to town doing a wield like this because of stray currents so I don't want to risk that.. now I did take off the drivers head and sprayed kroil down where the plug is.. but does it have another passage way? It seemed to not fill up but seemed to be draining to another area of the motor.

Picked up a hard cap chisel in 1/2" at least I will have a wider serface area to bite into and for the striking end as well.. too many missed blows

You know the gasket that should be on the plug heater.. well it's pretty much crumbled, and I'm looking right now but I don't see a replacement part number on the gasket?

I haven't taken the heads off, I did not notice that it could be sprayed from the inside of the block.

I'm still going to try a chisel on it, I'm not going to wield on it (Can't at my location) because I don't want a stray arc to end up messing up the bearings and fusing them to the block.

See all those marks? Well those were from a flat head screw driver but still it's hard to hit from the OD without ending up hitting too deep.. I will spray with a little more kroil and then if that does not work then I will just have to file the plug to the next size and use the impact wrench on it again