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Yeah I'm going to tackle my inner and outer rods this weekend providing my wrist has healed.

felt good leaving work today and jumping in a cool car

ahh done. it was a funny mistake.. you know on the harbour freight gauges and the quick connects.. well I'm not used to turning something clockwise to open but that's the way it is...

I need one more can.. I thought the pressure switch was shot.. funny thing is I guess it's a Subaru only part for the 95? I see switches for the forester and all..

yeah that would be bad if that happened! I hope when I paint the car I don't have as many birds poop on my car anymore.. For some reason they love to poop on brown and green a lot.. woke up yesterday to no less then 6 droppings on the car.

I'm not dumb enough to run the car with the high side open.. anyone who does that should diaf.

looks like I got a blockage I have my money on the expansion valve (new one will be here Monday) I will flush the system out on Monday. I wonder if the blast of heat from the torch did the rest of it in? I had to break the tight grip the threads had.

yeah I plan on getting a breather it would be crazy to spray without it! Now for the fans wont I need to cut a opening for them?

Here is the PDF of the charging section MSA5TCD95L5728.rar

I will see if I can post the PDF since Canon was smart not to make windows 7 drivers for a scanner is now useless for me.

door timer came but man I was expecting just the door timer but what is this metal case behind it?

I was wondering about this too

I ordered a new expansion valve this morning.. here are pictures from yesterday

Did not matter how the weather was it was the same in the summer as winter.

My pressures where 40 psi low and 105 high

haha I know all about the removing the glove box so close but all that metal is in the way I'd have to see if I have a box wrench in that size.

Yeah I saw the bolt too but unsure where to find a good angle to get in.

Finally saw it but I can't figure out how to remove it.. I did crack the vent removing it... But funny thing is As soon as I removed it and tapped on the door timer my doors have been all locking and unlocking like they should now.

yes I have.. I went more then 40 psi.. I also jumped the pressure switch and the compressor came on but still no cooling. also the manual shows the pressure switch for the high line but I can't tell if it's on at 200+ or what.

what pressure is needed to turn the compressor on? the low is at 40 and the high is 110 psi

I quote you from the service manual... Car is off.. "Evacuating & Charging" 3) The charging procedure described in this section begins by charging liquid refrigerant into the high pressure side of the system with the engine OFF. The procedure is completed by charging refrigerant VAPOR into the low pressure side of the system with the engine running. Few pages ahead "Inital charging through the high side" Connect tach to engine 2) WITH THE ENGINE OFF, start charging by slowly opening the high presure manifold valve. Down a few spots it says: "Check gauge readings" When both high and low pressures gauge readings are about equal, or the HFC 134a source is empty, or the system has filled to specifications, close the high press manifold valve. I guess my mistake was opening the high too quick? Not sure how slow is slow.

So I'm looking at the service manual for my 1995 Legacy and in one area it talks about charging liquid refrigerant in the high side first I added the first can and purged the hose (I already did a vacuum) So I open the High side fully and the high side gauge goes up to a little above 110 psi but it still has a lot of refrigerant in the can? It also says when both high and gauge are about equal or the can is empty the system has been filled to specifications. Did I do something wrong? The low side is still reading a vacuum with the first can added but still refrigerant is in the can upside down.

ugh almost done vacuum pump running now... what I did notice is the High side of the condenser does not really mate right with the H line when the top screw part was flush the O-ring was still showing.. I had to double up the O-ring which may or may not be a good thing but it's sealed better then just one. Evap got 114 mL of oil

may not need it.. let it soak in PB blaster last night and it came off with much less force.. just hope the line is still good.