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Is it held in by screws on the inside?

Does anyone know what part number 73550AC200 looks like? Is that the smaller pipe? Looking at the link here it seems to be listed and 9 & 10 but they just point to the same pipe. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_16/climate/cooling_unit/ If that's the case I might just cut the pipe off and buy the replacement which I doubt is kept in stock at local dealerships.

I wish I could but sometimes my power locks have a mind their own so it's iffy if the rear unlocks or any other door but my own.

Yeah I checked out the Nason and a lot of people liked it dealing with hotrods. This past winter my hood looks like crap but I plan on locating a GT hood Also does this type of paint have a self life unopened?

What a pitiful day.. all I really got to do was do the compressor and put on the new dryer.. I tried to take the lines off from the dryer to the evaporator box and I was only able to get the larger 32mm nut undone but the 19 mm under it is a huge pain.. So much for is needed that the line seems to be twisting.. Don't mind the specks you see in the oil from the compressor it's from the leaves on my shirt as I was on the ground and some fell in the cup. I filled the compressor with 20 ml of PAG 100 oil. pressure sensor took about 20 min to get off too

When you get the code pulled let me know.. and you need some good drills to do something like this and plus you need to try and keep it cool.

disconnecting the pipes under the hood the lower smaller nut does it turn counterclockwise to loosen? It seems like it's getting tighter to me.

I got 3 final o-rings to replace before I can start pulling a vacuum on the system and that's the TXV I can't figure out if the bolt on the firewall is to turn counterclock-wise or what.. It feels like it does not want to budge at all... Looking at the service manual it says something like 14 Ft.Lb

and mine is underfilled at the time still the same.. I remember awhile back people said they could feel the A/C compressor kick on and back then I drove an auto (yuck) I was like I don't feel anything.. But now i have a stick and I can tell when it kicks in when driving at 80

my 95 has this issue too I have rust too it's pretty nasty good to know the price is still good

I hope I don't get flamed for bumping an old post.. but I've noticed this on my car too 95 Legacy 5spd anyways I don't ever remember it being this bad on an auto but in stop n go traffic crawling at 5 mph it's rather annoying.

I've had the new drier sitting in the box since November of last year. And what do you mean chances mine is find? What the expansion valve? Going to stick a note in the return of the expansion valve to let them know it does not fit a 1995 Legacy

I wonder how much the dealer charges for this? I don't think I saw it listed on subaruparts.com to get an ballpark idea.. if they want $40 they can forget about it! correct part should look like this if it works. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/394-01052289.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1990-1999+Subaru+Legacy+A%2FC+Expansion+Valve+Four+Seasons+90-99+Subaru+A%2FC+Expansion+Valve&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base wow subaruparts says MSRP is $64.75

well that helped.. I noticed the rubber plug on one side fell out the other side had a bolt and a metal plate on it. And looking at the expansion valve I don't think this one is right.. from searching and looking at pictures I should have another part that screws onto the evaporator pipe right? ugh what a crazy day

And how long does it take for a refund from FedEx? by the time I got the refund I could buy 100 condensers 10X over? I'm pissed off I had to wait an extra day and I still have no damn AC.

I need to buy the kit? and tough? How long can I expect it to last?

My brand new TYC condenser just came in from rockauto after having to wait an extra day for it to ship. I don't think this looks right at all? The box was not crushed at all.

I can't stick the key in the lock at all about 5 months ago I could. I've been checking but a search for "tailgate lock" only gave me 2 thread and from what I seemed to find it's some kind of spring that rusts out or something?

The gate on the rear the lift lock I can no longer insert my key anymore it seems like it has a door that should open when a key is inserted but seems like something is blocking it? Anyone have this issue before?

Yeah I plan on sealing up any opening to keep it out.. However one question is about having fresh air.. How would I go about that? I just want to plan this way in advance so I wont miss anything.. I don't need a top showroom finish but the paint is tired and I have at least 2 rust bubbles I need to check out (gas tank door), roof right above the windshield glass. here is a picture from about 2 months ago I hope subaru has a replacement door molding I plain on just painting the car flat black.

haha yeah I need to pull my motor too a little nervous since it would be my first time.

compressor needs 20 ml of oil is that correct? I had a hard time finding a syringe but I found one a oral syringe at walgreens which goes up to 10 ml.

I will try it after work today I just brought a lock timer from ebay lol

yeah i'd be in no rush to drive just curious about dry time.. I know the time of the year I will be going it might be humid some days too.

crap i just paid for a door lock timer on ebay for my legacy and might not need it? Mine is odd.. I noticed if the doors wont lock after pressing the drivers side door lock if i slam the glove box shut the doors will lock.