1-3-2-4

removed the spring.. the pedal feels really good now sometimes on hills I developed cramps. anyways something that's just started now is (with or without spring) the clutch fork I noticed it's making this squealing type sound when driving or at idle and I give it throttle.. however if you hold the clutch fork to one side and give it throttle the squeal sound goes away.. Any suggestions?

they bend because of rocks? man I thought for sure the last time I moved it away it would of been fine.

seems like the back part of the rotor was contacting the metal shield plate drove with the window down when it was 35 out and did not hear anything.

My hill holder was disconnected when I got the car and the spring was on when I got the car.. It never did seem like it was factory but good to know I can take it off now.

here is the video

I work in norwalk but I can't think of any places off hand other then the dealership.

yeah I will grab a picture along with a video of what I mean.

the clips are visible from looking at the clutch fork I just see one roll pin.. I brought the car used so I don't know how many comes on it.

yeah the anti rattle shims

I can't think of the right word for what part I want to point out but I know if you look under the hood on top of the tranny you have this fork looking part that holds the clutch cable and then has a long spring. anyways should that part have a lot of play in it?

Thanks

I don't know who makes these pads but they have no bite at all only reason I did not change them when I did the rotors was because they still had like 60/70% life left. And it's been a long time since I brought pads but do you get a new backing plate with the new pads?

I have noticed this sound and I really can't pinpoint it because I need another person to move the while I'm outside but if you are driving next to a wall it's like a sqeeking sound depended on your speed. However I noticed if I turn my wheel to the left while moving like going around a turn or whatever it gets a little louder.. turning to the right it seems like something shifts and it's like a metal rubbing sound. the only thing I know is when i went to check my brake pads way back in the spring time the brake pad back which I think is the anti squeal price was so rusted it just fell away would this be causing this?

"ghostwalking" is the car moving sideways while trying to go forward?

So wait.. use a fuel pressure gauge and then pull them and look at the spray pattern? How often should injectors be changed? I got this car at 198,062 and I'm at 214K now.

I want to start with checking for a leaky injector how do I do that? I think it says something about that in the haynes manual but I misplaced it. I only ask to start with that first because I notice when cold in the morning or if the car has been sitting for 24+ hours and you start it up the car runs ragged like really rich.. and I know Subaru's do for a cold start.. but if you give it a little throttle while it's running like that it almost sounds like a misfire but no CEL comes on.. I might try again to get a better sound recording.. I mean I'm at 214,588 now and I don't know how long are injectors meant to last for?

I never snowed or rained when i first had the issue.. maybe the sensor is going in and out

odd.. I have not changed out the sensor yet but the CEL has not come on in at least 3 days.. mileage seems to be a bit better.

Here is another thing those that got the o2 sensor error did your CEL go off after a few start cycles but later came back on within a few miles of driving? I don't think I've seen it drop lower then .800 V yet.. most of the time it's around 1.xxx volts which is pig rich.

This is a video I uploaded awhile back.. Anways i will replace the o2 sensor since that's what the code is.. it's running rich almost all the time.. I will report back.

lets see if this works im on my phone... and NO its not constanly going up and down only after it firsts starts and 5 seconds later its stable and only when its warm!

Hmm I wonder of the sensor was telling on it's self after I seemed to change my headers.. if you start the car while it's still warm like running into a food store or whatever my idle goes 1000-500-750 but never does it when it's cold.. So I might buy a sensor local or order online this weekend.

code came back during a drive to the bank P0130 o2 Sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1) the voltages was all over the place but a screen grab which I think is the first o2 sensor is: At 2K RPM o2S11 1.030 V o2S12 V 0.055 Idle O2S11 0.910V -7.0 % o2s12 0.030 0.0%

Well it just now happened so it really has not effected my tank yet.. cleared the code last night drove to work this morning CEL was off.. but came back on when I drove to the bank. My car has 214,100 miles on it.

Stupid me for not getting the code stored on the reader.. I just know when I start my car up idle for about a min and drive off I get a loss of power right around when I shift into 2nd gear.. At first I thought I was just too fast getting on the power again with the clutch but this time it happened driving out. I know the code said Bank 1 Sensor 1 I do have aftermarket UEL headers on the car but I've had them on since mid summer without any issues or CEL. I don't think a o2 sensor can last up to my car's current 214K miles? *EDIT* code I got was P0130