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I don't know why I've taken this long to ask this but I noticed whenever on the throttle.. can be light or hard I get this sound.. the best I can describe it is a chain on a sprocket sound. I was going to buy fuel injector cleaner on Saturday but for some reason I decided not to at the time. I just did a sound file under the hood however the engine is way too loud for me to pick out the sound in question. I can see if I can get get it later tonight with all the windows open. the car is a 95 Legacy L wagon with 203K miles.

I plan on going with the hella supertones I own a wagon so that should pretty much give the reason away why I need something a little louder.

Anyone know what is the part number for the bulb behind the A/C switch? I went to the dealer and they said they could not find a part number for it.. I'm pretty sure the switch should light up right?

Thanks for the info

My as of now does not have fog lights.. however I brought some fog lights from the Japanese version that are the projector kind.. My car still has the fog light covers on them If it was fog light ready the plugs would be behind the covers right? I don't see any so I guess I will be running a harness to them?

not comparing it to anything just curious I don't think it's 118dB loud as something else I was looking for.. I don't think I've seen the specs listed for the horns in any of the FSM

Anyone know how loud the horn is on a 95 Legacy L wagon?

I used a xcato knife to close the connection on the back end of the male side of the plug, so far no more radio cutoff.. But glad I found out where the fault was. I have the Service manual for the 1999 Legacy but everything seems to be pretty much the same and in the same locations.

I will try

Thanks

let me guess I missed it? *edit I guess not.. the 20th would of been good.. However this coming weekend I will be in N.C. on vacation I will be driving... 2nd week of July?

How do I go about fixing it? I can't seem to back the pin out.

A update right after work I took the radio out and started checking again So I touched the Power wire for the radio wire harness and that's when the radio turned back on.. so unsure what side it was on I finally narrowed it down to the harness i brought.

I will see if I can try option one.

Yep It's Yellow for power and the ground is black.

nope it's for the memory I get 12V regardless if the key is in or not.. And for the wire color for the ignition I will get back to you on that And I will double check that fuse But I'd like to know why the last owner if the radio already had it's own fuse why are they using a fuse tap?

"I'm not sure what you mean by "getting no power from the Ignition lead to the ground." However, another thing to look for would be a pinched or frayed wire causing the problem. If the hot lead were grounding out, you would likely blow a fuse, so I doubt that is the problem." from what I looked at online whenever the car is turned to ACC/ON the Ignition lead which is RED should be hot since it's on a switched circuit with the key. I checked all the way to the factory harness and I still don't get power from it.. Also I did squeeze the wires for the harness for the radio and no the radio did not come on still. The Ignition wire should supply power to the radio.. at least that's what I did when I had to power the radio on the bench before I put it in this car to eject a CD. my main concern is could of this happened in the past? (past owner is tapping from a fuse in the fuse panel) and I already checked it with my ohmmeter and it was ok.. the fuse for the radio is 3A and it's not blown. I can't tell where the wire is running but it's under the carpet and by that time I was pulling I got caught in the rain.

the Blue/red colored wire from the factory harness connects to the radio's Memory wire for backup. The switch was on the whole time the radio still wont power up when connected.. if push comes to shove I can make a video and post it on youtube.. it's a shame I did not think of that before when it was cutting in and out...

Thanks for the reply, the thing is I did solider it and used heat shrink tubing for it for this very reason.. I will try to squeeze the wire to see it it has any signs of life.. However but what about the issue of I'm getting no power from the Ignition lead to the ground from the car side of the harness?

I checked the blue/red color wire to the ground and I got 12.65V However when I checked the Ing. wire to ground I only got 0V

ght Thanks, I was not sure which was the power wires on the car side of the harness I will verify with my meter to see if it has power. It's just way too odd with it always or more likely to cut out when it's wet.. and for me It's been and will rain for 3 days here in CT.

This problem has been getting worse for me.. What happens is (I first noticed) when it would rain for 48 hours my radio would work but say I come back to the car later and go out the radio would not work.. no power.. OK so it seemed after 24 hours with no rain the radio would work but I never lost my time or my presets.. I don't get it.. So fast forward to yesterday and I could not get the radio to come on at all.. it rained yesterday but later in the day it was dry and sunny so I removed the whole radio to check for any loose connections.. I don't get it I did not find anything and I'm still without a radio.. My radio is a Alpine 9856 I was going to try a spare radio to see maybe my radio is frizzing out.. but I have my doubts because one day messing around with someone on the car (radio was not working) I ran on the rumble strips and the radio came on like normal.. but then bumps or I should say larger bumps on the road the radio would switch on and off on it's own.

I have a question when recharging using the manifold gauges how do I connect the can to the service port of the gauges? Wont I need a adapter? Also at the time I did not know but I brought PAG 100 oil that also has r134a but I noticed at another store they had the PAG 100 with just the oil.. I ask because I brought a can of R134A with UV and finally found a place that had a UV pen light to check for leaks So I was just wondering should I use it or get the one with just the oil? And last the talk about the O-rings are most likely the issue for all leaks where are the o-rings at? Are they at each nut connection on the condenser?

picked up some PAG 100 oil and a can of R134A with UV so I can pinpoint where the leak is at... I hear the most common area is the O-rings.. should I buy them now or wait until after I do the leak test? Anyone know where I can find a UV light at without having to order one off the internet?

are you trying to say you are trying to fill the system with the compressor running? Like it was said before the reasons why a compressor wont turn on is because it's underfilled or it's overfilled both cause it not to run to PROTECT the compressor.