1-3-2-4

Nope I have not.. it's annoying since no one else seems to know what I'm talking about. I don't understand how the lights in the rear can work but the parking lights in the front don't work but it will flash the turn signal. But that does make sense with the load and all.

When I use my turn signal in the car at lights I swear I can hear the flasher flashing faster or slower I don't know what the standard blink rate is but mine seems to be blinking fast it seems. Is that possible?

I rubbed engine oil on it and 4,000 miles later I've never had a leak..

made this sound file today hard to hold my handheld mic and get the sound in the car while driving and shifting. from the sound and what I saw today 90% sure it's the tie rods.. having said that I just need to replace the inner rods right and put on a new boot? and don't forget to count the number of threads before taking it off? however it seems like I can't upload the sound file right now.

For me I removed it with the oil pump still on but I used a screwdriver and was VERY careful not to nick the surface. It came out very easy compared how the haynes manual said and stories I've heard online. it was in and out in 5 min.. took me longer to clean the inside of the seal housing then it took to get it out.

I will check this in the morning.

fuse 23 in the main box is for my AC fuse 5 in the car is for the tail light right side.

SO I was under the car and I checked the ball joint.. I don't know what to say.. it sounds like it's coming from the CV axle or the ball joint.. the car's weight makes the clunk sound louder then me tugging on the front suspension so it made it harder to hear.. If I can find my long mic cable I can grab the clip since the mic in the car you can just barely hear it. Oh yeah and my boot is split.. maybe it is the tie rod.. but the passenger side is also just as bad as well. Driver's side shown here passenger side

yeah I have to check the FSM again to see how much is needed. while I was under the car I also checked out the condenser it's got road grime on the passenger side of it and driver's side as soon as my gauges come I will be checking the pressure.

I'm about to go under the car here in a few if I lift the front end up would I be able to tell if it's the ball joint by trying to move it? or if it's the lash adjustment that's needed or the tie rod?

yep I know where the evaporator is.. I just cleaned about 4 inches worth of pinestraw and leaves from the airbox.. it was blocking the whole evaporator. I don't have my gauge set yet but I'm about to go out now to check if I see any oily deposits around any of the fittings. I hear the most common leaking area is the o-rings on the compressor. my compressor is a Zyxel. also yes the factory service manual really helps. *edit* What did you use for compressor oil?

I will check tomorrow since I need to do a little work on the car and yes I have a voltmeter.. never leave home without it!

question.. I'm guessing the best way is using uv die but the evaporator can just go belly up on it's own? i found a load of leaves and pinestraw which was about 3 inches deep where the evaporator is.. cleaned it all out but still have poor cooling.. I notice when I turn on the AC now I hear a slight hiss from the area sounds like the expansion valve. having said that I plan on getting some Manifold Gauges and I was looking at a vacuum pump it is rated for 75 micron/10 Pascal.

edit

Correct and already changed the bulbs had no effect. And no they don't come on in the front if you use the parking switch or the switch on the stalk. Regardless if the engine is running or not.

hmm I did not know the flasher unit was tied in with just turning the parking lights on..

Still trying to figure out what is wrong, when I turn on the parking lights my rear lights come on with no issues however my front's don't at all.. but here is the thing when I turn on the turn signal or hazard lights the front parking lights will flash normal but they just don't work when the turn signal is not on and the parking lights are on.. A quick search on NASIOC shows a few have this issue but no follow up's have been done regarding it.. all my fuses seem to be good as well as the under hood fuses. What should I check next? It's been like this going on 3 months almost. My car is a 1995 Legacy L wagon.

If it has not been said don't forget to add oil to the system as well.

Yeah I've turned the engine over by hand with the crank pulley only unless you like sore hands and cuts not worth it..

Not sure if I had this same issue since after replacing my T-belt everything was fine.. but I came up to a stop sign which was on a little incline with a 1/2 tank and the car just died.. I tried to start it and nothing.. so I put the car in Neutral and back up. From that I got the car started but it was rough.. I got it back in first gear and took off without it stalling.. that was about 2 months ago and never had any issues since then.. but then again I found a hose from the valve cover that was disconnected as well.

Yep hat little mark for me was covered in grime and I was using the white mark instead.. took me a total of 8 hours total (I started late in the day) after I found the mark on the crank car pretty much started up.

It only happens when the body of the car shifts forward when you lift off the throttle under light or moderate acceleration. It's coming from the driver's side front it sounds suspension related but it's hard to tell which component it is. I can provide a sound file of it when I'm able to get home. Oh and the car is a 95 Legacy L wagon

Yeah let me know when another one is going to be planned.

Finally I found this thread and I can post a larger size then my avatar.

Ok on my 95 Legacy L Wagon I have a R134a system.. from what I read you should not use the receiver/drier to check to see if the system needs to be charged? Because what I notice is which the compressor turns on the sight glass has like a white froth that shows then it's back to clear with hardly any bubbles when the compressor is off.