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i brought brake shoes for my 1995 impreza when I had it before I got rid of it due to the transmission... the car had rear drum brakes So now I have a 95 legacy L wagon with rear disc brakes but the brake shoes are so worn that they really don't hold the car well with the emergency brake up so I was just curious could I use these shoes on the car or not?

whoa what year is that car? I have a 95 legacy L the same color as your car but I wished I had body color moldings.. and I kinda wished I had headrests for the rear seats... Also I'm about 1300 miles away from 200,000 myself

I had this happen on my 95 Impreza L FWD I first I noticed when getting gas one day when backing up to the pump on a little hill the car started to slip going to the pump.. so one day after work it did it when backing out on a level surface, so I went forward again and reverse again only to find out the car will no longer back up and I had to push it out with my foot which sucked... I later got rid of the car since it was pointless to put another FWD transmission in so... The funny thing is the car had no problems with any of the forward gears at all, and the fluid level was fine. that was the last of any Auto transmission for me.

I will check on it

1995 Legacy 2.2L 5MT 198,685

at 198,658 I brought the car at 198,065 95 Legacy wagon

This issue has been so hard to pinpoint... I thought maybe it was the drivers side valve breather hose was not connected to the intake.. then i went to change the PCV valve which did nothing ( needed to be replaced) I'm still baffled.. it only happens when the car is cold and has been sitting 3+ hours.. you start up the car and give the car a little throttle and it seems like it's got a misfire. No CEL is on.. I have not did a seafoam yet because I just changed the oil, the plugs and wires are said to be new but not sure what plugs are in the car so I will have to check on that but I do have a sound file. I was told could be the IAC needs to be cleaned but what part of the IAC do I clean with the cleaner?

yeah everything is ok no leaks and I took it out on the highway.. what I do need now is some new bolts to hold down the part that goes over the top of the radiator since I had about 4 bolts that snapped because of rust/old age. not sure what the size is of that bolt Also I think setting the timing after I did the water pump change fixed a issue I was having before I did the belt.. no one knew what it was.. what happens is right after you start the car up it would run rough and if you gave it a little throttle the car would shack and the engine would sound almost like it's retarding the spark but then it would go away within a few seconds.. Now that I set the timing I have not heard or felt this yet but I will check in the morning when the motor is cold... Still getting the CEL for the knock sensor but I know how to replace that one

the engine is good but my heart just about stopped when I started pouring antifreeze in and it was pouring like crazy from the thermostat housing.. upon inspecting up close it seems like the thermostat housing is the one that is leaking... right now it's almost a steady pour (I used a new gasket) Is it possible for them to fail and leak like this? *edit wooops I forgot the gasket goes AROUND the thermostat and not above it..

I knew this was going to come sooner or later... but I have the whole Factory Service Manual.. I printed two copies of the End wrench for the 2.2L So how could it take me so long you ask? I missed the part about the crank hash mark... I sure do know about it now! and trust me I did search here, NASIOC, and SLi for my answers I know it might be a case of "he has a long post count so he must not know anything" thing...

yep ha a few people always ask about the firing order so it was just something that stuck.

I can't tell if this has any sound but the video should say it all... thank you everyone for taking the time helping me with my first timing belt change I really appreciate it!

Good news everyone the car runs.. somewhat.. first let me say the spring clamps are a BIG help.. I'm about 1-2 teeth off on the driver's side cam so when it runs it's very rough... I've heard some say I should work from the driver's side cam to the passenger side.. I left a lot of slack in the area where the tensioner pulley is.. however I want to make sure it wont pull the crank when I put the TB on the passenger side crank.

I'm going to try it this way.. I have a spring loaded clamp around here.. so I'm holding the tensioner down on the belt while I put the belt over the driver side crank, correct? I got the driver side lined up right now which took less force then my other times.

it's way off on the drivers side.

yeah I got the email great help but as I emailed back those clamps you have what is keeping it from (drivers side) from moving forward or backwards? because what happen to me as I said before when I bring the belt over the idler the driver side will tend to spring clockwise and off goes the alignment.

both cams need to be lined up in the same position as the crank mark? lined with the mark on the TB cover? My issue now would be when I bring the belt over the idler the driver side cam will jump from it's alignment mark clockwise I turned the engine by hand 720 deg and the passenger and main crank are still lined up right just the driver side is not right.

where is the alignment mark for the crank? it just has a white mark painted just like the cams. I just took these

What type of clamp is that? that's to hold the cam right? I still have the old TB.. and yes the 95 2.2 is non interference.

thanks for the help everyone any tips help I learned from last night lol I got about 5 cuts from the driver side cam turning by hand. so I just spun the cams around so the white marks line up and the passenger side is about one tooth off.. now if I can get the crank to line up and the belt back on I should be in good shape right? the funny thing about all of this is I'm missing the belt cover that the M/T models have over the crank.. Not sure where that went but it was never on when I removed the cover yesterday.

crap so I put the pulley on and set my TQ wrench to 120Ft. Lb and went to crank.. no start.. took the pulley off and noticed the crank is off... ugh.. I have a question the white marks on my cams when they are lined up with the marks on the covers are the valves closed? I have to take the belt off again but should not be so bad this time around.. providing the cam wont spring around.

nope just the AC and the PS and Alternator.

Any harm with starting up the car without the crank pulley on or should I put it on and tighten it down and start the car to make sure everything is ok.

Sorry I'm so used to other sites showing your car model.. It's a 1995 Legacy L wagon with a 2.2L since this thread what I did was turned the driver side cam once around and it aligned with the crank. so I went ahead and figured out I needed to take the sprocket idler off and I finally got the belt on and so I spun the crank around and it's still aligned.. I wont start it up until tomorrow since I will have more light to see and it will be warmer then some 30F out here.

This should be simple here I hope... So I finally replaced a failed water pump.. the belt I took off looked good no missing teeth.. anyways for feeling good I go ahead and change it along with all the idlers and Tensioner. anyways the issue I have here now is with the new belt on and the sprocket that's next to the water pump with the sprocket in place I can't get the belt on the sprocket.. also with the force I used I caused the driver side cam to turn and now it's no longer aligned. Any help would be great since I need the car by Monday at least. I included a picture showing how the belt is now but not how the belt looks trying to get on the idler.