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I'm in the same boat.. last winter really took a toll on me since I did a bunch of highway driving, my plan was to plastic dip the car before winter but I don't want to do that with rust still on the body.. the biggest issue is the passenger side rear where those stupid plastic pieces are near the rear door of the Legacy, that's the biggest area, the rest are rust bubbles.

This reminds me my 5MT that went out.. 2 years later it's still on the basement floor opened up.. I need to get rid of it since I'm going to be bringing another in but this time hopefully the yard transmission wont snap the damn bolt for the rear center diff housing. For some reason I left my car jacked up on one side for 24 hours later went to lower it and drive it and it started howling.. and still does to this day with what seems like a lot of internal play.. It's been good so far but I plan to change it out again maybe in Feb and this time throw in a front LSD.

I took a picture yesterday while under the car this morning I will pull the motor.

lol I did not say what tires I was on but I'm still running on my snow tires the general arctics.

on the way back I pushed 340 for some reason my program I used to track my fuel is showing a avg of 31 MPG, but the picture here posted I can't complain.. I had AC on and I went a little faster going back doing around 80 with a avg around 70 mph. It made a world of a difference lapping those valves that's for sure.

I'm reading on forester.org and it seems like a few others who have '01 models had leaks from the rear separator as well, maybe they used a weak sealant? He's told me if I was around he would of not kept the car that long and would of picked up a Toyota instead. btw the answer to my question is sep plate # 11831AA210 5 silver screws # 800406140 1 black screw # 800406150

well it's that or the rear main seal.. the car is down a qt every 2 weeks and it's dripping right down on the Y-pipe if it was not for the under cover he would have a spotty driveway. I know to know ASAP since he wants to to stop it. and before anyone else says it's not, I've changed his oil now 5 times and so I know because I heard from him first hand one day he went to check the oil and it was not reading on the dipstick.

I can't get the opposing forces to load the complete car listing, does anyone have the part number for the separator plate? I think they come with the screws, at least I remember when I did my legacy.

My car is a Ej25 I can't say for mileage since the last long trip i did I had no 5th gear

Thanks my first time going out to Myrtle Beach too bad I don't have much time to mess around, it's a drive out for a day and back home.

I haven't been on a trip this long since I drove out to MI.. So headed to Myrtle Beach, SC and it's around 678 miles just wondering how many times will I have to fill up? 3 times?

I just hit 265K this week, got my emissions done today which I passed car idles smoothly just gotta take care of the rust on the passenger side rear area. Noticed the car is starting to get a little bouncy now.. it's going to suck getting struts again.. I might put STi struts on... lost 4 brand new KYB struts in my last legacy that i totaled.. they had to only be like 4 months old.

Here is mine

Wow I might have the best looking seats here from the way you all talk.. I have a '97 outback with leather seats no rips or anything all seats look great for the age of the car.. Only thing is the seats don't feel as soft Im as as when the car was new.

Yeah I just removed the IAC and got the hose back on from that location, 2nd time that hose got to me but not while I was pouring coolant in.

it's the hose that goes to the IAC however I'm not sure where that coolant line goes?

So I had to replace my heads due to a bent valve which was not that bad.. anyways the replacement heads I had machined.. and so I went to put coolant in it and it seems to be leaking someplace at the rear but I really can't tell from where.. Does the back of the head (passenger side) have any openings for coolant?

I ended up doing this, it was pretty easy but it was better after I soaked the heads.

the one they show in the service manual I think is the 96 version, the spark plug seal looks way different... Anyways I ended up taking the last one from Amazon.. In a pinch I've been reusing the old one, since it's really a one time thing I had to trim some of it to fit back on the valve cover, I got these again http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VYHLAU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they go for a good price which is why I suspect they don't stay in stock that long.

I have some heads I got 2 weeks ago and now just started pulling the valves out but I see one seal was not seated and I'm having a hard time trying to get it to come off the valve guide.

seems like I would be better off with the inch pound wrench again.. (it walked off) it's a 20-200 in.lb range suck having to buy another but oh well..

I was just wondering I swore I saw something where they were listed in inch pounds but I'm seeing here 7.2 & 14.5 FT.lbs maybe I used a inch pound wrench.. Do you guys use a beam or clicker for this area? I ended up before using a inch pound wrench since my lowest only goes to 10.

Ok I thought so but just wanted to be sure.

It keeps saying it wont fit my 97 Outback but it looks the same as all the DOHC EJ25D gaskets? Can anyone confim before I order?