1-3-2-4

Is this going to require another valve gasket change? I JUST replaced them like 3 months ago because the brand I had before were pretty much crap. I have to bring out the manual to see what the spec numbers are. I heard ordering from the dealer is going to take a few days since they don't ever keep them in stock.

It does, I've had the LH head spring back if the belt teeth catch it good enough.. As long as you rotate the cams the right way to prevent valve to valve damange.. Once however when you do have them under no load (both cams not pushing down) then rotate the crank so the pistons are at BDC which it would be a line on the crank sprocket.

In my case I would just need to work on Cyl 4 in order to be within spec However I don't know if it's the intake or exahust shims I want to say intake however.

Ok thanks

The RH head is not under load so if you pulled the belt when the mark was lined up then making sure it's right it should not need much turning at all. I was able to line up and pull the pin on mine and the cams all were still pointing at the right marks.. However my tensioner is going weak so it allowed the RH side to jump 2 teeth on the intake side.

When I did mine it took me about 1 mile to get to the highway.. from then I pulled over and did a few redline pulls It passed with no issue. The worst I had was the oil burning in the cylinders because I manually coated the cyliner walls because I did not want rust to form. *edit and this was 2 years ago

How much do you want for the tensioner? If I don't hear back I'm just going to get the one on ebay.

So awhile back I had a bolt that went in and kind of mangled the threads to the driver side head, so I have a exhaust leak in that area and it's a little annoying how would I go about fixing it?

I can't send you a PM since it says you can't receive any new messages.

Yeah it's crazy

I would of taken a picture of it but I have to find my breaker bar for now you have to go by this.. look were the pin is the white space is meant to show where the metal broke.

Don't you mean they were always to the right? Perhaps mine still good but it's pointless as I can't hold the plunger down.. I don't think many understood what broke on it :-/ first time I ever seen one mess the metal up in the way it did.. No big deal since they are easy to find.

Well I just plan on replacing the belt and the tensioner. I guess you missed my big head gasket thread I well covered all the other parts you covered none of the screws on the back of the oil pump backed off.

Well indeed the passenger side seems to be 1-2 teeth off, I wonder why? Belt stretch? tired belt tensioner? My drivers side top part of the belt cover broke.. maytbe 2 years ago the bolt must of came loose off of the tensioner and hit the moving belt and broke the belt cover so I can see the two cams turning.. I was thinking maybe water over time weakens it? The belt covers are not too bad on ebay. The drivers side seems to be fine, I did not take the whole center part off because I need to locate the breaker bar but I got as close to the center with the mark by looking down where the crank sensor goes.. which btw I think I should replace it.. the messy engine top is my PS pump which no longer works so I'm going to find a replacement.

I'm not sure how you missed it.. It's in my signature. I can pull the belt cover but I don't think I will get to that until tomorrow.. for some reason whenever I want to do work on the car it feels the need to rain the whole damn week.

My year is listed, it's the same old style used on the old gens. and if the car thinks it's a misfire then why is the psi so high still?

2 had 170 psi and 4 had 145 psi which I suspect was because all my shims got mixed up two years ago when I did the HG. Just to do that I would need to replace the TB tensioner because the metal with the little hole to hold down the rod just snapped on me one day when I pulled the pin. having said that I don't see how it could effect the other side of the head. I feel like cheating because all they do is a OBD II ready test...

Should I replace the coil pack first or the fuel filter? The coil pack as arc damage from awhile back.. here's what's been done.. OEM subaru wires New Spark plugs checked compression and it's 185 psi on both cylinders In the morning I will move the injectors around, but if it's a coil problem would I see the misfires on the same side? I need to get emissions done and for the drive cycle I only had the Catalyst left to pass but that's when the damn CEL came on again.

Ah ok

Yes! all done! A little aerokroil and a 2lb deadblow made it easy.. plus no need to raise the intake manafold. Funny thing was the pipe it's self was not clogged but the small tube leading up to the BPT was pretty clogged. One thing will the code clear it's self or do I have to clear it? I hope I don't since I don't feel like doing the 55 MPH drive cycle for 15 min again.

Mine is almost rounded off.. I can no longer use my 17 mm wrench so now I need to use vice grips :-/ I'm not sure if anyone ever touched it before but I've tried off and on like 10 min at a time to remove the top part but it wont move.. So today I'm going to take the torch to it with some kroil sprayed on it. The end that goes into the head is easy as pie for some reason.. Don't worry I'm going to give it the finger next year when I swap to a Ej22 for a turbo project.

It seems like I would be better off taking off the drive side wheel? Mind you when I last checked the car was on the ground, I mean I can fit under the car on the ground but that damn crossmember... The top is going to be harder.. I might have to hit it with some heat.. I never got the top part off when I did my head gaskets two years ago.. I'm going to try heat and kroil I hope the last owner did not do anything stupid. At least I feel better knowing it's doable on car.

Yeah that's the tool I have

Is it impossible to remove with the motor in the car? Any type of tool I can use?

Pending code for 1 & 3 came back today I have to narrow it down between the coil pack, injectors (252K miles) and knock sensor but not having a code for that.. my compression is 180 psi on both cylinders possible fuel injection issue as well.. no codes today.. well be moving the injectors around to test.