1-3-2-4

Does anyone know what is required to get the EGR to pass and be ready? I've heard 3 different things one which is driving the car 50 MPH for 3 min the coasting down to I think 30 or 40 MPH then back up to 50 MPH for 15 min then it should be be ready.

That's what people said about the 5MT I carried it down steps and moved it around with no problem at all. Why not pick the motor up under the heads.

lol was driving my friends Forester today felt good not to have a work out session with the steering wheel.. but anyways I assume when I get the nut off the pulley it should be pretty easy to pull off? I think I'm going to powder coat it a anodized color.. maybe red since I already have 2 thinks red on the car.

That happened to me after I did my head gasket repair, I jumped up on the engine and shook the motor side to side and it popped on flush to the transmission.. then the engine mounts went down in the slots for them.

I know I can lift the 5 MT by myself and that's equal weight with me.. I might be able to move a Ej22 by myself for a short distance, Not sure about the Ej22 heads but the EJ25 heads are pretty damn heavy alone.

How much does the long block weigh in at?I want to guess 265-290?

With 251K miles 1- 180 PSI 2- 170 PSI 3- 180 PSI 4- 145 PSI 4 must be low because my shims got mixed up after I had my heads redone.. I'm glad he called to let me know he forgot to give me the shims before I took the 40 mile drive back home, I guess that's why the idle is a tad lumpy but not so bad that your teeth rattle out.

LOL I found out what it was.. that was causing it.. the motor mount that bolts to the crossmember was loose, so that's where all that extra shaking was coming from, I ended up doing a compression test as well My numbers.. 1- 180 PSI 2- 170 PSI 3- 180 PSI 4- 145 PSI I think 4 is because the shims got mixed up because they slid around in a box.. I did catch the ECU wigging out.. It threw me a ICA fail code but turning the car off and back on again and it works fine.. :-/ Going to need to helicoil the drivers side exhaust header stud for some reason that last one got really mangled, Still have a CEL for the 2nd O2 sensor but that's not a big deal.. Only thing is I hope the drive cycle for that is not long.. on each clearing of the CEL it resets it... the EGR one is the longest.

Yeah I had a look on RS25 of something changing the rack, pretty easy.. Given I still have my snow tires on and the rubber is softer on them makes the steering that much harder in feel when turning, When I had the front in the air if you turn the wheel lock to lock you could see the drop in rpm but you could tell the pump really was not doing the job. I will have to check out a rack once the weather warms up more.

I was reading the service manual today.. pretty much the pump is toast... it must of happened when the level dropped low, the vanes might of got really worn, plus the pump would hiss on the backside (still does) I will get another pump after I'm done with this other stuff.. Debating if I just want to change the whole rack or not.. I know at least one of the dust boots is really ripped and I can't remember if the seal was bad or not.. can't remember which side.

No, i brought them from subarupartsforyou.com and picked them up at the dealer last year during the summer. Also last time I put the belt on the TB tensioner which is the old style.. I'd have to get a new or replacement one before I can do it again.. I went to pull my allen key pin and the metal that lines up with the plunger just broke off so it's impossible to keep the plunger down.. never thought I would see that. When I do change the plugs this week might as well do a compression test on all 4.

Oh Cyl 4 looked like this.. Looks like the plug wire is in the wrong side/area so it's too short for 4 and ended up not making a good connection and ended up burning a bit of plastic on the inside.. shocked I never got 4 to show up in the misfire list... I pulled the wire to Cyl 1 while it was running.. now that was a misfire.. A real misfire

No clue it's the same one I had when I got the car.. I always bring my jump pack when I look at the car and from the looks it was sitting for awhile so I had to jump it.. It's been fine so far in 16F weather.. Anyways here is a video I did not too long ago.. I have a question about checking the igniter not sure which terminals to check on the igniter side of things none of what I had here matched what I was seeing.. I was doing Pin 1 I think which is the closest to the firewall I was getting a number higher then what I think was shown here.. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg

I really don't trust the misfire code right now for the fact that the car would not be that smooth at full throttle, If it was not for the CEL you would never know it's a misfire on 1 & 3.. This car ECU has an habit of making up codes sometimes when clearing the ECu by disconnecting the battery.. i was going to buy a spare from ebay but I haven't got around to that yet. My vacuum at idle is -24 inch/HG I cleaned the crank sensor last time I changed my crank pulley which was maybe 5 months ago. Only thing I can say right now is my plugs are almost at 30K and my exhaust leak at the header output causes the idle to hunt.. before it used to be 3&4 and now it's 1&3.. I've had a real misfire before and that was because my old plug wires had a broken wire and was arching to the block and you would for sure know it was misfiring by the exhaust note and the hesitation.

It blinks at idle and like you said highway.

well the other platinum plugs are only $15 so only 5 more.. if it was a sohc I would not bother with the platinum plugs. Funny thing is if I have a misdirected on 1-3 how is it still pretty smooth giving the firing order... Maybe its my exhaust leak right at the header output?

What's the differace between the BKR5EGP and the PFR5B-11? I changed my knock sensor like 2 years ago.

The blower box how can you clean the inside of it without fully taking off the AC lines?

I went over to his house today finally and yep it's the AC idler pulley Also his timing belt is due (car has 102K now) so might as well do that all at once.. This is my first time seeing the idler pulley go out like that.. I still have the original on my 97 outback.

I just came back from priming the rack.. I did 50 times left right full lock, and then 10 times with the car running, it feels far far more lighter when turning when car is stopped and when moving.. I know it wont be totally smooth giving the large soft thread blocks of the winter tires but my wrists feel better already!

The clutch wears out plus I don't think Subaru stocks them anymore? The vlsd is just that viscous fluid that gets sheered when the rotation speed is more than the other side.. the faster the spin the quicker to react.. stock vlsd is pretty weak and takes a a few almost 100 tons to get the transfer to start

1997 outback 250,150 miles

Going to put the front end up in a few its hard to turn being I got winter tires as well.

Yeah it came up pretty fast