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Sorry for the rushed first post I've been out since 9 AM and just got back in now.. so it was 2 1/2 quarts low.. I don't have puddles but I can't tell if the trans leaks or my rack/pump is shot.. anyways I filled it back up it sounds better.. however I have play which sounds just like my 95 legacy I had if you say go into 3rd and just tap the throttle on and off it makes this thud sound.. lucky for me I did a video of it before I totaled the other legacy... at highway speeds the front left (btw all these sounds come from front left) it makes a whirling sound, slower speeds not so much an issue but certain turns and having the window up can make it kinda audible. Give me a sec on that video

Please tell me good news.. It was fine before I had my new tires on.. I left one side up overnight and today I put up all fours.. OK so I go and drive around and I hear alot of backlash going on.. then I hear first gear sounds funny.. I get home as soon as I can and WTF no transmission oil.. WTF... Assuming nothing reading it's going to take a whole 3-4 qts to fill and it's almost 9 PM here... Can I save the transmission????

wow a 1K idle...

arrrgh.. so I ordered the Fuel sender's from subarupartsforyou.com and picked customer pickup.. waited and waited.. so around 4 PM or so I get a email about a tracking number and I'm like WTF? It seems like they got confused and shipped it instead of having me come and pick it up.. Oh well no extra charge but at least I can finally have a working gauge again instead of working when it wants to.. Now I gotta get the winter tires mounted tomorrow and wheels cleaned up then I should be ready for this snow for Friday.

Well at least it's off

still no code so it's done!

It was about 42-45F today so driving with the heat on I was around 183-185.. on a day when it's like 8 F it was lower.. summer I've seen 195-202 F.. my program I run to monitor the temps I have a alarm set to go off if it starts going over 208 F that's about the time the temp gauge starts to climb.

Opened it up.. you can kinda see it but might be hard but it's the white looking part.. I looked at the FSM and whatever that part is I don't see anything like that in the tank.. having said that with hardly anything showing the PS works like normal..

So far no code I'm not sure if a drive cycle is starting up and car comes up to operation temp or just off/on.. but nevertheless 3 operating temp cycles and I don't see the code back.. Does not seem to hesitate when going up the ramp, which was evident of a misfire, idle seems smoother.. car still wont stall if I hold the EGR open if that matters or not.

Thanks will have to try that one if my issue returns.

wow good thing I picked up a set.. the drivers side was leaking as well.. stay far away from DNJ gaskets from Rock auto! I hated to do the drivers side because of that last bolt near the cross member is a pain with a wrench.

yep 17mm and I might need to use heat on it.. used a flare wrench.. used channel locks to turn.. still wont move.. however having said that trying to get the pipe off the head would be a bit odd.

Is it 17 mm for the flare nut?

I ended up just getting the gasket off Amazon, and I did clean as much as I could out of the intake manifold, and what was the size of the EGR pipe again?

I just took the EGR off as soon as I got home After on the EGR EGR holds pressure fine with just my finger or if I suck on the vac line end I can get it to move, also picked up 6ft of new hose more then enough so I can keep some as spare. Now for the car end.. as it's snowing now taking the EGR off gets me better access to the EGR pipe but the lower one is a pain now.. Is it possible to get the lower one off with the engine in the car? I did it when mine was out.. For the port on the car same as I did inside with the carb cleaner? should I go easy on the carb cleaner where the EGR sits or do I just need to clean the EGR and just the pipe? I assume like the pipe it all leads down to the head and I don't want to go nuts. Well looks like I should of made sure I had a gasket on hand.. Advance or auto zone don't have them here.. I hate dealing with them here since you wait in line for 10 min only to have them say they don't have it.. ordered it off Amazon and that's it.. I have a decent size vac leak now, anything I can use to seal to temporary? funny thing was the gasket was pretty thin.. thinner then most gaskets I've ever seen. I don't think you can use RTV or anaerobic gasket because it's under vacuum right?

I might put some rubber between the hose and the clamp this time.

My stock one was rusted so that's why I did not reuse it

It's not noisy at all... I'm right near the injectors.. the Injectors on Subarus are one of the loudest I've heard.. and given they are at almost 250k.

Too bad I don't have enough carb cleaner but I know as soon as I touch those lines they are going to split.. This Friday I will have a go at it hard to have free time around here.

I've always used the worm screw clamps however my lower radiator hose is now leaking when the system is up to pressure from it cutting into the rubber.. Being this is the 2nd hose has anyone used T-bolt clamps? Funny you fix the heater by-pass hose and now I have another leak from this area.. I was wondering why my coolant level was always dropping.

I was in a bit of a rush to drop someone off but from my testing car did not stall with the EGR open, forgot to test the EGR solenoid, for some reason I was thinking BPT :-/ All lines to and from BPT are as hard as I don't know what.. given that it's like 25F out right now it's a sure way for them to rip.. I might have to try this weekend to clean out the EGR. Also it takes a bit of force to open the EGR as you can see in the video

I assume larger line (looks the same size to me) I'm guessing you mean the one on the right, I don't have a hand vacuum pump just a electric one, not sure how much vacuum I did to test with, I would suspect carbon buildup with almost 250k.

No doubt you found the location by now but here it is for others Also I heard when the engine is cold the EGR should not open when revved until warmed up, correct?

perfectly fine