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Everything posted by 1-3-2-4
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Not really.. must be bad internally.. looks like all the other sensors. I was just going to buy a replacement for $125 unless I can be sure one fits the plugs of a 97 Outback. my thing is how can a sensor show open but the ABS works from 0-16 miles? Then I guess checks the sensor sees that it's bad then turns on the light?
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I've got the same code right now I think it might be the pipe that goes from the EGR to the head but until I can get it off I wont know, for some reason it's hard to get off the EGR end of it :-/ I'd have to try that test myself, and you can't miss the EGR or BPT, one thing I know is sometime when at idle after the car is nearing operating temp the RPMs go up and down like 100-200 and since my muffler is not on just yet you can really hear it, does not do it as much as if you drive and then stop at a light or whatever.. I cleaned the ICA controller last year during the summer.
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Now I tested the right rear sensor and it's pretty much dead.. But at times I can drive maybe 1-16 miles without the ABS light on I can stomp on the pedel and have the ABS kick in. So if the right rear sensor is dead (tested it multiple times with meter) why does it allow the ABS to work for however long it wants to then notices the sensor is gone?
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Show off your roos Mileage!
1-3-2-4 replied to beataru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
crap did not have the phone with me last night but I hit 248,000 after getting some fuel. -
I'm not sure if I can get it out but I'm trying to track down my CEL's and one of them being about the EGR, I can't remember the code off hand but I remember before someone here saying to check that pipe because it can get clogged.. OK well back when I did my head gaskets I was only able to get the end that goes to the head and the top that goes to the EGR I was unable to turn with the flare nut wrench.. Any other tips? because if I remember right the metal was kind of soft so the compression nut was starting to slip a bit. I really don't want to have to get a replacement one since that pipe is about $45 online.
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lol ^ I haven't still replaced those fuel senders yet.. but in 2 weeks I will but right now time for some tires, we had some sleet on Tuesday and with my tires pretty much bald I had to keep my speed under 45 mph and still you could feel when the car hit the crown in the road it started to slip a bit. Looking at getting these General Altimax Arctic, also I have to strip the wheels on the car now and powder coat those since they are looking pretty rough now, but since they will be winter wheels it does not need to be anything crazy.
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That's where I found my transmission, Mine went out at like 230K something by locking up, so I did a search that day I found a 98 forester transmission with 89K for like $300 I think in NH, drove up and picked it up. It seems like the more further you are away from a large city the cheaper the prices.. most places here wanted some like $300 for one with almost the same miles I had or more.
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I might have to check tomorrow, I don't want to steal one of my summer lug nut bolts, I might hit the tone wheel screws Friday with some kroil, Kroil and a torch works wonders in getting really stuck things to move, I think my FSM is in storage, anyone know off hand what the torque rating is on the bolts for the tone wheel?
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^ wow that's crazy with the safety inspection... I don't know about anyone else but I can tell when the rear or fronts are low on air.. first of all the car does not seem level (if it's almost totally flat) and second is the car wont want to track straight. No it's ok lets just rely on a light to tell me when I should check the tires!
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I have a 3lb I keep handy, I will try this Friday.. Ok dumb question but does the dealer sell lug nuts by the single? Or anyplace? Whole reason this happen was I was going around a curve near my house and I saw the lug nut roll off into the grass so as soon as I got home I saw the whole wheel was loose.