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the bore job would take care of the out of round and taper so if I have it right I should buy the pistons first then have the block bored to the correct size? If I'm correct I don't think Subaru offers stock pistons in nothing but stock A & B sizes? If they do I never seen a part number. I was thinking at least 99.7 mm pistons to go with.

So I'm here looking.. do I go with cast or forged pistons.. I know why and how the stock piston ringland went due to too lean but that's going to be corrected when the motor is rebuilt.. my question is my cylinders and after 220k miles, I guess I can call myself lucky the piston with the ringland did not do much of any damage at all. But the thing is I don't think the stock A-B piston sizes will fit anymore?

The marking that says 11222 is that for the main bearings? I'm a little confused because I'm trying to buy some King bearings the MB5382XPG which is the standard size.

So I was messing with the motor while in the trunk and it's for sure the rod bearing for piston 3 that's no good.. when at TDC if you push the piston it has a little play.. Now as far as scuff.. seeing as it had 23 PSI going to it about midway travel is some wall marks but it's for all them.. I took a video of it

Yeah hopefully the walls are in decent shape

So I need to rebuild this motor and it's been sitting in the truck of my Legacy GT for about 2 months I haven't taken the pistons out but it was close to around 230k I think miles before the rod spun and before that the ringland cracked on one of the pistons.. So long story short I'm getting a new crank and bearings but my concern is the piston clearance.. It was not stock and was running a 16G turbo Now I "plan" on doing the pistons myself but leaving it up to the shop to measure but that's where I get confused on how I know which piston sizes to order?

For the fashion I guess.. just like how the early 90's cars had to say it had a intercooler or 24 valve on the rear trunk

What's the factory range for the valve clearance for the intake and exhaust? I can't find it in the FSM other then the clearance for valve seat and the valve it's self.

All done the drain for some reason was a T-50 which is odd since they both should be Hex but I put new plugs in with washers so that takes care of that.

That sounds like a option

I thought about a 11 mm hex but I just deiced to focus on the corroded rear diff wire yesterday as it was starting to become dusk. I will give it a shot

Well I fixed the rear diff wire but I wanted to change the fluid today and I see the fill plug is stripped with the 10 mm hex so how will I be able to get the plug out? My only thing I could think of was wielding a 10mm hex on it and getting it off.. seems like someone tried to wack it long time ago. Now I assume the dealer has new fill and drain plugs? I can't check the part numbers on my phone but if someone has them could they list them? The drain plug seems to be a T-50 torx plug.

yeah the PCV is hardly 8k miles old but I will be replacing it again anyways, the timing pulled was insane.. it would pull so hard you could floor the car and it still would got go any faster until it got over 1800 rpms and it just woke up again.. Some times it would keep pulling timing under 1800 and sometimes not. I will say it was a good lesson to see what a huge pull in timing felt like

My car was in no way running rich it was running too lean at idle The car has over 202k on it it was burning oil (1 qt every 300 miles)

it needs new bearings due to excessive blow-by which thinned the oil too much and yes the ringland(s) are cracked so yes I need new bearings

So I'm in the process of starting to rebuild a engine for the first time the motor is still in the car so I have a little ways to go but My block piston sizes are BB|AB With A being cylinder 2 so it's likely that I just need a hone do I buy replacement stock pistons in that size?

Has the FB engine

Looking at getting another Subaru however with the current issue with the oil consumption of the 2013 and '14 I'm not sure if I should go for the '13 model? How bad is it really? I'm not too sure the Subaru is that good on the type of oil weight for that motor configuration.

Got it back in had to take the axle nut off and push it back in that way.. funny thing was all the pushing on it did nothing but as soon as i took the axle nut off and pushed the axle in from the outer CV axle it went back in with no issue.

I was replacing the driver side strut and I guess I did not know it kinda slid out enough to make a puddle.. However I put the strut on and I can't get the axle back in the transmission I need help!

The bolts are the same size for both for the coolant line for the turbo.. however the turbo is not the stock that came with the car, however I'm going back to the stock turbo vf40 I just don't know if say a vf56 and a vf40 have the same size banjo bolt for the coolant line for the turbo.. as of right now it's not fitting and I have no other option right now other then to tap it to the larger size.

So the turbo when out on my Legacy GT so I got a replacement as soon as I start looking at the threaded part for the coolant lines it's a bit smaller I don't know what to do the current bolt size for the coolant is 22 mm i don't know the thread pitch and I don't know if this is the only size the dealer has for this? I can't really do anything because of this now.

I'm going to buy a new shortblock from the dealer

To make a long story short my '05 legacy GT is going to need some new piston rings.. Now I had a pending code for the OCV but I replaced that with a new one.. not sure if it had much effect but my oil dipstick is no longer popping up and spraying engine oil on the underside of the hood. Now as far as the piston rings are the stock piston sizes 99.7 mm? I was told to hold off in buying the rings and to measure a piston before getting the rings.. Now honing the cylinders.. can I really do it without splitting the block? The only block I split was my Ej25d which failed and spun a bearing so I don't want to make extra work for something I don't need to do. I was going to use the bottle type hone. Now I assembled the #1 piston from the Ej25 and are the rings really that friken simple to take off and put on? The only thing I'm not too sure is the oil control ring. Any info will be helpful

Both sides but the rear right is louder then the left.