1-3-2-4

Don't they make a knuckle with everything done so all you need to do is just mount it? Just curious.

I had the front diff go when I had my 03 Forester XS.. It was an auto the inner seal was leaking and I heard it whine on the highway so I took the quickest exit since I was only about 1 mile from the Subaru dealership.. I got on the road with stop lights. The front diff let go on the lightest of a throttle press.. It will let you know when it's gone! It was undriveable.. anything over 3 MPH was like driving on a rocky mountain. I can't find the pictures right now but the the case was cracked, the diff was mixed with AT fluid and it was all over under the hood.

But only happens at highway speeds and on throttle.. going out to get gas so I will take the longer way on the highway.. hopefully you will hear something. plus it does not have the wheel bearing sound. plus the last time I did the wheel 2 months ago I checked for play when the tire was off the ground (push pull and no motion) Did not do the axle yet.. I assume I can do it while it on the ground?

I want to say axle now, I was driving today and on throttle at highway speed if you move the wheel quickly to the left that's when it gets louder, when it's moved to the right not really much changes, off throttle the feeling is gone. I will take the recorder with me when I go out to get gas.

The boots are black but the cups where they mate with the transmission are grey, I've never seen them that color before.. heck my rear axles are still original and I can see a little green on those.

Hmm Axle.. you know this reminds me.. I think these might be aftermarket? I've never seen a Subaru of these model years with grey inner cups? I had that same judder feeling in my impreza when I had it but in that car it was only when turning.. This car it happens only when loaded and highway speeds. I've redid my friend's axle on his Forester and it was easy as pie, but if these are aftermarket which I suspect they are then I might have to check some yards for some axles. I will see if I can get a recording but I doubt you will hear much because of road noise, it's enough to make the wheel shake for sure, and some times it will go from doing the sound to being normal again.

First thing I did.. I used the torque wrench and none backed off, I set it to 80 ft.lbs

This is hard to describe but it's a feeling along with a sound like a slight thumping and judder feeling in the steering wheel, if you quickly jerk the wheel to the right the sound changes a bit I'm not sure where to start

At 243,051 forgot to take a picture

Well yesterday was the first time I started my car up in like 3 weeks since the belt broke and the woodruff key messed up the old crank pulley. All I can say is the harbor Freight jump booster comes in handy again! I forgot to take a picture of the keyway right side up and with the new sprocket on.. I figure why take any chances.. I had to use a scuff pad to clean up the light rust on the crank and I had to use my pickle fork to get it off (timing gear puller was a waste of $$) So once that was all done I started putting stuff back on.. I do need to replace that drivers side belt cover just because it shattered on the highway one day from something on the road :-| I will end up replacing the center belt cover later on.. meanwhile I noticed (before I took the TB off) my timing was off on the passenger side by 1 and drivers side by two. I fell like an idiot It took me less time to do it when I did my HG but I ended up messing up.. but the engine was out of the car... The engine being in this time was not as bad but it took me awhile longer (an hour) but this time I can say for sure I got the marks right, what threw me off was when you put the last idler in it starts to pull on the cams in which the exhaust cams on both side start to rotate and timing is off... Well I forgot about the tensioner.. the pin was in but I got a good deal of extra slack I needed and I was able to get a tooth of extra slack to get it around the sprocket near the water pump. After I was done went out and got food, and somehow I'm not sure how I got from the computer to the bed.. I was pretty much knocked out. ECU went nuts after I started the car the o2 sensor 2 is legit because I bent the body of the sensor because it was on hard.. the knock sensor was crazy.. it's not two year old and it's a crapshoot on which code you might get if you reset it again.. it's off now. Before I took off the TB My powder coated rotors held up wit all that rain we had.. Now I have to quickly get some summers on so I can take the stock wheels off and give them some powder coating and throw the winter tires on very soon.

I did this last year and in the rain no less! on my 97 Outback I swear I must of dripped a total of 2 gal worth of gas but yeah get the screws!! glad I did because one of them did not want to come out and the head stripped so I drilled it out. I did not put that cover back over the filler pipe.. It was full of crud

Well I got everything on.. but the ECU went crazy.. but this is not the first time, I'am very close to buying a spare on ebay.. Some of the weirdness that will happen.. Reset the ECU misfire 3 & 4 almost back to back.. Reset again. misfire 3&4 wont show up again almost at all.. I think the longest time was 8 months.. Now today granted I let the battery sit for a long time but I had to use my jump pack but I had the cable off the whole time I was working on the car.. Anyways I must of been getting some serious detonation I thought it was the valve hitting the piston but I was 110% sure I finally got the marks lined up, because I know before the passenger head was one tooth off. Anyways I had the sound on idle, then that went away then it would only sound when giving it throttle. Then it stopped period.. Also the first start I did in like 3 weeks it ran super rich but then again I resetted the ECU as well. I forgot to take a picture of the woodruff key slot but it's very good I caught it in time, it could of been a lot worst then what happened. And the other thing was it also caused my knock sensor light to come on which I knew was not a real code because I replaced that sensor a year ago, and before the crank wobble I never had a knock sensor code and I did not drive the car the while 3 weeks, I cleared the codes, the knock sensor one came right back.. but after more driving I cleared the codes again and this time it never came back.... The only code I should be getting now is for the 2nd o2 sensor because I bent the tip when trying to unscrew it out. Hmm perhaps piston slap? Maybe I never heard it before because the timing was off by 1 tooth and 2 teeth on the drivers side, so the combustion chamber pressures are higher now?

Got the sprocket off.. hmm it seems the wear on the key caused it to lift up out of the keyway.. from what it seems like it's fine.. Here are some quick shots, just waiting on the dealer to email me about the sprocket to pick up today. Ended up using my pickle fork to get the sprocket off I can take this other stuff back. I think driver side head timing is off by one?

I never had to tap anything before but I got both, anything special I need to do when tapping the holes?

It's a damper pulley not harmonic Also the pulley is the same diameter as the stock, this has been beaten around the bush so many times.

Also known as HNBR O-rings Also don't keep the compressor jumped with no flow because it uses the oil mixed in the lines with the refrigerant to lube the compressor.

Finally in my hands.. looking at a new key shows mine did get worn a bit.. Tomorrow after work I will try and get the stuff off, hopefully I wont need the jaw pullers. Or need to tap anything

I will let you know by tomorrow, btw I emailed the dealer and just as I expected.. the order is magically ready for pickup... I wonder how long it's been sitting for pickup.. Since Last Friday I guess.

I think I'm going to get another sprocket to go along with it as well when I remove it.

It's going to be a pain to get the spocket off I did lube it with oil when I put it back on a year ago but then it was hard to put on, Not sure why I did not scotch brite it for some reason :-/ I will have to see if I can't get it off with a screwdriver then I will have to use jaw pullers.

Whoa I see what happened.. I went to put the pulley on and wanted to turn it and I felt the whole key move.. I think the key spit or lifted up when I had to put the sprocket back on.. So I still have to wait :-/

I haven't heard from the dealer about my key & bolt... I just took some macro pictures.. do you think it's ok to use for the time being? Had to be from the last owner but when the car ran low of fuel the rocking back and forth and the torque on the key must of smoothed out the whole keyway (How that happened who knows) but I got as close as I could and it does not seem that bad, at least I caught it early but it's been almost a week and I'm still waiting for the new parts. If I don't hear anything today I'm going to email them.. I don't think they should charge the card if it's not really in stock. I mean I think what Dan Perkins is cool and all but at least my other dealer in Norwalk will order the parts for you and you pay when it really comes in.

Not sure what's going on here.. got the pulley in but the dealer was quick to charge my card but I haven't heard anything back since Friday.. for something that's "most always in stock" for two simple things I thought it would of been a lot quicker.. given how the key is not really that bad I could get away with it but I want to take the crank sprocket off to clean it with a scotch brite pad.

I heard the new Optima batteries have gone downhill so I took them off my list.