1-3-2-4

Pretty cool!

They are the both the same for each side.. I had to do this year before last changing the rear disc brakes. Also putting the rubber plug back in helps if you lube it with something.

haha we do look alike

lol

Got a bunch of parts coming in.. new front calipers new rotor's for the front and rear. I did powder coat the rear hats to the same color of my wheels I'm going to put on late this month. I ordered (finally) a new center pipe since when I took of the stock when doing the transmission it fell apart almost instant because of the rust... I also ordered some new heater core hoses because the stock one at least one of them I saw spring a pin hole size leak when I went to remove the starter to do the contacts and that's when I spotted. This is planned for later in the week :cool: Yesterday I finally passed 300 miles from the tank with a mix of highway/city driving

not an '82 but I snapped my clutch cable and for some reason I thought I would bump start it in reverse.. lol.. not only did I have a hard time getting it out of reverse but the car was also on a slight incline going backwards and I had about 8 Ft of space before hitting some stone pillars to protect some electrical equipment.

It's been awhile since I posted a picture of me Under the car checking the front oxygen sensor blasting some parts

I found this site where you can get the temp sensor by it's self which is $3 and the temp sensor with the bracket but you would have to do your own wire which is not hard at all http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ Temp with Bracket $13.21 15047946 Temp Sensor by it's self $3.27 25775833

Ahhh what a day... One place I went to (It was about 30 mi closer) said they had one from a '05 tahoe.. Well. It was loaded (I guess that means On-star) I get to the place and they said I would have to come back Monday.... MONDAY because it was not pulled off the car yet.. I was like I'm not coming back it was bad enough it took a hour and a half drive for 52 miles.. So I ended up going to the first place I should of went to before.. It was $5 cheaper $35 It's a dual line from a 2002 Tahoe and comes with the plug harness but no temp sensor so I have to locate one.. Which seems to be the hardest part. If I do a window mount which mirror button fits this thing?

Yeah those were nice I remember the mirrors when they had On-star on them. Too bad I gotta do all this stuff the hard way :cool: I'm going to get the '02 Chevy Tahoe mirror I'm about to call the parts place now to figure out if it comes with everything (doubt it) or at the very least the harness plug. *(edit) yeah no temp sensor.. but.. it's 76 miles out of the way or I can get one with the onstar one which is closer.. they said it's "loaded" but Not sure what it has.. But anyone know what button does what on the on-star mirror? I can't find much right now but still looking.

Well we will see.. I'm looking at a mirror from a 2003 GMC sierra 2500 I don't think this model has the passenger air bag indicator? Or the On-star buttons? It is dual line.. The price I'm not sure if it comes with anything but the mirror.. It's like $40 at the yard. It would be cool to do that while I do the brakes and all on the car.

I was wondering does the alternator out of a '07 ForesterXT fit the '97 Outback? I think the Forester has a 3 plug connector?

40 mm

wow how did the sale price drop so low in a year?

Ok I need to find one.. If you check on car parts it never says which sender it is.. and being as it's not that big I don't want to drive out and see they don't have it.. (happened when locating a transmission) Since I put a full tank in and drive about the same way each week I figured around 260-280 it would start to show the low fuel light.

I'm nearing 241,000 I get around 26-29 MPG I've almost hit 300 miles to the tank which will set a new record with me and the car (having 5th gear is a great savings!) and not bad being a mix of highway/city driving.

Does anyone know what the length of this bolt is? I finally found the matching size but I'm not sure the length of the bolt.

looks like it's 42-43 mm the larger bore must of been the single piston caliper for the front on the outback.. Not sure why they had a single and dual piston for the outback model period.

Ah that makes sense now

I'm powder coating a NEW caliper to replace my passenger side which needs replacing.. Anyways everyone seems to think 345F @ 15 min for a cure temp is too much for the boots (my rotor temps have hit over 589F) so I'm wondering should I buy some replacement boots? And if so does anyone what the bore size is? I got burned from rockauto not long ago and ended up with 4 useless dustboots because they are about twice the size of the OEM seals.

Yep heat build up and all. Too bad they have nothing but 85A replacements

I forgot about checking the AC to see if I had a reading.. I remember before I totaled my old legacy the dashlights really flickered I really think that alt was on it's way out it got shorted a few times because of the wire was frayed on the output. Anyways as soon as I get back I will check, I do no with no loads on it will provide about 14 V I have no clue how old the reaman Subaru Alternator is.. I know the Subaru reman sticker is on it still so maybe not older then 5 years?

Sorry for the long delay in the reply, so I don't understand I assume the 97 outback has the same mount I had in my 95 Legacy? I might try and pick up a mirror tomorrow if I can find one.

I was thinking about this (sorry been busy this past week) I was driving at night and I was leaving a parking lot and I sat at the stop sign for a few and my HVAC blower was on 2 with no AC on I noticed at idle I see my dash flickering more then normal.. I've converted the dash over to LED a good 5 months ago so It's caught my eye. Anyways I'm still using the battery that came with the car I'd have to guess it's maybe 2 or 3 years old... Anyways I was wondering maybe the battery is draining faster then normal because of it's age? Things I've noticed if I have the headlights on the dash turns on, maybe like 5 months ago my dash gauges would be all still lit up (if this makes any sense) but now it fades pretty quick to off because the LED's are 12 V so once they start to fall under 11.5 they fade. I think it would be wise to do the battery first then at the same time do the cables then recheck again?