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How can you fit that in the plug hole? in the meantime I just took a wire hanger and made a sharp pointy tip.. maybe with some WD-40 I can yank it out?

GD I had this happen to me as well the effin hard plastic somehow broke but left the stupid boot on it (why does it need to be rubber?) I'm effin stuck.. and I gotta be to work at 2 AM.. I took the valve cover gasket off and everything.. Help!!

This is not good!! Here's what happened.. that part that broke off well it's that like kinda hard rubber.. two things.. I took the valve cover off which only helped just a little but the damn effin plugs are still so recessed I can't get down to remove it.. and I can't put the new plugs on.. My only next thing is to torch a piece of metal and burn the rubber around the spark plug unless anyone can come up with something better right now.. I gotta be to work at 2 AM.

The other end is on the plug in the head I gotta get the plug out to get that piece off so I can put the new plug wire on. I'm saying is it more room to stick my tool in above or under the motor?

Just curious.. I have to remove the plug for #2 because the tip part that goes on the plug cracked and got stuck on the plug.. blame it on the last owner for buying cheap wires.. that will explain why I had misfires on #2 Anyways my question it seems you have more room working under the car to take the plugs out?

My OEM failed around 226k dealer only has the MLS kind now

Mine did not start overheating until I started pushing the car harder on the highway.. the crazy thing is I had one or 2 overheats before I took my 654 mile trip out to MI. Never overheated the whole way to and from. It did start overheating more when then AC was on. The worst was when the however rad hose blew and I got stuck made it to a rest stop and met up with some people that needed help as well, got a lift to get some supplies.

ahh sucks.. dealer emailed me so late it took me about an hour and a half to get to the place and just as I was walking out (they close at 5 pm I arrived at 4:45) they locked up I'd have to put it on tomorrow.. but yea put a full tank it and I haven't hit 200 miles yet and im on empty again.

replaced it 2 months ago I got the hood damage to prove it

Ah good info I tried to check around but I never found any info about that. I guess I wont know till the dealer tells me when the order is ready. I know it's not related but my idle is crazy high every time I leave in the morning Not after just starting but when moving to leave and I clutch in.. I hit almost 2K get on the highway for like 10 min blah blah after that it's fine. I don't know how many more times I can keep cleaning the IAC It's hard to dump sea foam in it because you know the car cuts off almost instant when you disconnect the large hose.. having said that I'm avg about 20 MPG now which is lower then say 6 months ago.. Not too sure plug wires can gain me at least 4-5 extra MPG? Seems too fair fetched?

Not me it was the last owner of the car.. I would never buy them.. I was going to buy the NGK but ordering from the dealer was the same price so just went with that.. However I don't think I will get them today for customer pickup.. Also I'm narrowing down for misfires.. if it still happens when I need to do a compression test when I had my heads resurfaced the shims got mixed.. However I did a vac test awhile ago so it's normal.. idle to red line will pull strong it's just that sometimes from idle to maybe 3K is the misfire range. like I said in the other thread they wont most likely have my order ready until next week (subarupartsforyou) but what dealer does not have plug wires and a t-stat housing?

under the passenger side intake manifold. has a large hose going to it with a plug on the top. here it is in my hand

Most of the time I would not of bothered asking but having just ordered some OEM wires from the dealer, these cheapies I have on the car now sometimes.. the mirefires get rather crazy more so when you have shifted into 2nd.. makes it look like you can't drive a manual.. a while back ago I tested them all with the specs in the manual.. and 3 out of 4 were in spec.. other one was shot.. having done logging my misfires are all at TDC.. So I wonder maybe the heat of the engine bay changes the Ohm of the wires? The funny thing about all this is you would think the CEL would light up on the first misfire but not always.. but when it does it 3 & 4 or 2

Well I placed the order with Subaru parts for you.. while I would hope they would say the parts are ready today.. it might not be until next week... but really what dealer does not keep a T-stat housing and plug wires in stock?? I'd hate to make the 46 mile drive up and the stuff not ready and I need to go back up during the week.

well at least I feel more revealed i guess it only leaks when pressure builds after the system sits for a bit.

I think i figured out the smell looks like the tstat housing is leaking... Which will explain why I'm missing coolant.. Not a huge leak which is why it took so long to find

wow that's crazy..

It's not the slides that are stuck but the piston getting stuck and causing uneven wear.. I'd have to flush the system again since I did it about 2 months ago but it's no big deal. Don't need the motive power bleeder. So yeah I will do just the fronts.. when I got to my final dest. I checked the rotor temp I was showing 522 F for the driver front and 90 F for the passenger front.. yeah.. If it's anything like the passenger side it's the inner pads

The pistons are sticking in both fronts now.

Both fronts are sticking again while driving, the rears seem fine for now but I don't recall seeing too many people with stuck calipers in the rear?

haha I don't know what's harder.. me when I pulled my engine for the head gaskets or doing the heater core. At least from what I saw picture-wise it did not seem all that bad.. I just don't know how much the part costs.

So I've been noticing that I have a coolant smell coming from my two vents in the center mostly happens when you first turn the heat on but the smell goes away in a few min then happens again the next time the car sits and all. Most likely the heater core but not sure how big the leak is? can't be that big since I don't have any dripping.

I had a stupid tow truck driver try and tow my other Subaru i owned when my fuel pump went out with just the front end raised.. I think we moved like 50 Ft before the rear's locked up.. and the car was in neutral. Had to wait another hour for the same guy to come back with a flat bed...

I wont know for sure till this weekend when I line up the crank.. I do remember something about trying to get the two cams lined up but them still looking off when doing the belts?

I figure while I'm waiting for a replacement cover I happen to look at the marks Of course the intake cam is not lined up since that's the way the motor stopped and I did not have my breaker bar with me to move it over.