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Like others said it's the HG's I had the same symptoms.. It got really bad if you turned the AC on which caused extra heat from the condenser to be put on the radiator. I got my parts ready like a month ahead before I did the pull (took a week) and after that it was done.

Mine was aftermarket.. But I took off the door panel for drivers side and figured out which wire was lock and unlock.. and If I remember right white/red was lock and white was unlock. I found a source for constant 12V and that was about it. My system was the Bulldog keyless entry.

installed new keyless system

Wait.. not all of them are located in the passenger side beside the glove box.. I know on my 97 OBW it's right under the kick panel right under the steering column. Not sure where the switch over was but I guess it became too much of a pain in the rump roast to get to where the old location was.. I know that's true I ended up with a bloody hand.

Sorry late to the party.. It's the Head Gaskets. Mine did it back in April as the video lists.. I finally changed them in Aug. Been fine ever since then if it's not already been said it's how the sender for the gauge is because of no coolant running over the sensor to cool it down then When the piston is not pressuring the radiator it starts flowing normal again. I took many pictures of the old gaskets never made it to the oil passages (thankfully) About 3,000 Mi on the new gaskets.

Nevermind I installed the keyless entry myself and it works fine

Anyone know where I can tap in for a constant 12V source for a keyless entry?

it's not possible to have just the hatch to unlock is it?

Quick question are the door switches a (-) setup? Not at home right now to see if the manual shows the schematic.

when mine rusted it happened at the J bend in the pipe plus that part was filled to the top was mud and crud.

That's what I was thinking myself

god damnit I've been looking for a rear spoiler for my outback for the longest time hardly anything on ebay.. and the dealership is a true ripoff.

Mine is really bad lol at least you had a few working.. it sucks by the time it starts clearing up due to all the heat in the cabin I'm burning up.. I'm going to wait for it to cure a few days myself since it was only like 50F today besides I'm just about out of painters tape anyways.

ugh.. well it was easy to find the breaks.. slowly moving along... 12v... then it's gone.. SO many of the lines are in poor shape it had to been a tint that was removed forcefully.. I hope I can clean up the look of the rear since I used painters tape to mask the color is lighter so when removed you can see on the outside rear.. I only started on the passenger side since that's where the (+) is. this is just part of it..

haha next time I go off road I'm going to mount the ECM up higher myself.. learned the hard way last year with the '95 Legacy.. I guess muddy water came in around where the tube for the AC drain line goes out and.. well the ECU got soaked good.. I was on the trail with nipper and neo and I got out of the car and walked away with the car still running and that's when I heard it die... long story short neo saved my rump roast had the exact same ecu in his car lol.. it would of been a painful way back since it was like 70 some miles from home.

So with this last storm and it getting colder I should of did this a little sooner.. but to get to the point.. I'm trying to figure out how to find a break in the lines.. OK.. if the wire had a break in it it should show (lets say 12 V) 12 V most of the length until you hit the break and it goes to 0 V right? On a wire that's ok it starts at 12 V one end and tapers off on the other end right? it's painful because I think pretty much all the lines have issues.. must of been a tint or something on the rear glass? I do get battery voltage to the tabs and a bit down the wires but it's hard to say for sure where the breaks are.. I do know you never see any defrosting action in it's current state.. i did buy a repair kit but not sure how well it's going to work.

Not seeing that here.. I can still see body parts for my car.

that's odd.. I never heard anything like that before.. Today we got our first frost and it was 35F out this morning and my car had no problems.

my ebay kit came with Japanese bearings as well. I've put almost 4K on my kit. (did it the same time as the Head gaskets)

reminds me of this green legacy sedan I saw last year when we got all this snow.. it was spinning like crazy to get up the hill only the fronts spun.

changed the valve cover gaskets on my friend's wife's '02 Forester I had fun Also fixed the dead clock issue.. yes it was 501 and I think the resistor 300 or 301 that was also coming up from the PCB.. that was done in like 10 min.

I'm saying with the car running and you see something like 12V output from the alternator then it's NOT charging the battery and the car will soon then die again. You can clean up the terminals

Stick the red probe from the volt meter to the post on the top of the alternator and stick the other to the battery negative terminal and if you don't see 14V with the engine running the alt is week or shot. Also another test is to set the meter to AC and see if it's outputting AC (should not) when running.. that can cause odd things to happen and nasty things. if the belt was replaced it does not mean much.. in order for it to not work the belt would have to be so loose that the PS pump would squeal before the alternator did.. besides the PS would feel heavy when turning if the belt was loose.

Sounds like the alt went.. Mine did that really bad when I drove down to VA.. it only did it once when I was leaving work but I thought I could do it again but nope.. in the end I think the alt output wire was grounding to the alternator body and did it in.. I should of known because I changed all my dash lights to LED's and they were flickering like mad in the days it got really bad and it burned out a good few of them..

nope no wear