1-3-2-4

because from what I looked and searched around here the o-rings that are on the lines that go to the compressor are prone to leak.. heck it hissed when I went to move the compressor out of the way when I pulled my motor. *edit 3 cans should be enough

Yeah it's AVCS Active Valve Control System

A recharge takes about 3 cans right? My charge must of leaked out the high pressure line with the o-ring on the compressor.. I went to turn the AC on after I did the headgaskets and I noticed the compressor did not kick in, that's when I later saw the traces of oil around the port.. Now lucky I still have some left over AC o-rings but since I have to recharge I might as well do the dryer as well.. Last year was painful in the winter without AC help clearing the windows... I sure as heck don't want to wait that long.. lol and I thought I would not have any more use for my manifold gauges and vacuum pump.

almost coming up to 2 weeks in and my overflow bottle is still at it's proper full line mark and my oil level is fine I've got about 680 more miles to put on the car before I make my final 1,000 test, after that I will feel ok for 3+ hour trips.

I just had this same problem.. what happened was my motor while the two lower pins where in the transmission the motor was a little twisted that the studs on the motor mounts prevented the engine from sitting in.. I had the same gap you did after I got that in and lowered the engine it popped right in.

Its tight so will try brake cleaner

Oh man I must of got oil on the crank and I just put a brand new dayco belt on the belt is squealing like crazy.. and sometimes when you stop and turn the wheel that's when it gets heavy feeling a squeals the most.

yeah I don't plan on running it for long it's just what I had on hand.. trust me it's going to feel good not having to buy a bottle like every 3 weeks or more if it boiled out. Same goes for oil.. I had so many oil leaks I had to buy a qt every week.

see the little hole where the drivers switch is..does anyone know if it had some type of lens on that area? Because I look inside and I can see a little green light but almost all I see are missing for some reason.

I just have to remember to change over to antifreeze before it gets cooler as I'm running straight water right now. I was thinking about adding a little water wetter to it. any pros or cons about that? lol

:-/

good to see it's fixed

What the heck does "power window sub front" mean?

LOL Not really it can be helpful in some ways.. but I can't figure why they would only offer it on the postal model.. the switch can't be that much over the normal switch.. and correct me if I'm wrong but I still don't think Subaru has any late models with express up. I know the dealer is not going to have them in stock i'm curious what they go for.

I think it should fit.. like the door locks the trim will fit left or right.

I ordered from that same guy my water pump was not GMB but Artix wells not sure if it's a DOHC thing but mine had belt markings I had problems with the tensioner idler as well you need to use the sleeve and bolt from the old one so don't throw it out with the trash! The issue with mine was the sleeve was too fat and the bolt was threaded the whole length and not half like the OEM. Other then that everything else was fine.

car stays nice and cool I gotta do the oxygen sensor next week It is really near the end of it's life

I'm thinking maybe I can go to the dealer and just get the switch? It can't be that much can it?

yeah I don't see it anymore but I'm going to monitor for the first 1,000 miles. one more thing sometimes my idle is still a little too high when stopped like 1,000 rpms and sometimes it's normal around 750.

I think I saw in a FSM or someplace that the postal versions had a express up and down for the driver window? I wonder if it's the switch that has that feature? I wonder if that would work to have express up on a non postal model?

Are you talking about the 2.2? because my 2.5 has a EGR and it's a 5-spd but my 2.2 legacy was a 2.2 and no EGR.

That is true.. I was testing the resistance with the wires I had in my car.. and low and behold I think it was the wire for #4 was reading Zero on my meter but yet I got no code..

making sure it adds up