1-3-2-4

Starting the project now.. one question do I really need to drop the header? I ask because the bolts to the first cat are solid.. I'd have to cut them off.. Having said that I got to the motor mount bolts with no problem..

I got as far as mounting some SSC P7 LED's for the reverse lights but I blew the driver which was also like $40 I plan on running something brighter then 900 lm. But with it being so close to being fall I might not worry about the taillights till early next year.

hah I was in the works of custom LED turn signals.. I'm hoping that guy in NY that had the JDM tails can still get me a good price since I was so close i did not have to pay the huge shipping.. they did come in a rather large size box about 20 some lbs. the funny thing was it was a pain to get the old stuff out.. I remember snapping the center garnish in half trying to break the seal. Only thing left over is the drivers side taillight which I still have in my living room today.

Aww man... haha sorry for the hijax I would of felt better if I could of taken those bits off and put them on the car Oh well.. the lights i got pretty cheap because of a misspelling on ebay.. no jacked up $200 shipping...

Says Legacy instead of Subaru on the center part. the back up lights have a Fresnel lens And no stupid finisher lights AKA known as those stupid side marker lights on the rear tail lamps on the side body.

the JDM tails clears up the rear so nice Im still pissed somehow my ************ing deep sockets went missing so I was unable to pull my damn JDM tails off the car when it got totaled.. now I have to rebuy all that chit over again.. and like you said it's a ripoff for shipping.

I thought it was a good time to use Amazon 1 month prime trial.. next day for the clutch kit for $3.99 can't beat that with a stick! I just hope my card wont get hacked like it did last time :-/ For people that did this before did you label or take a lot of pictures or do both? It's going to be messy for 2 days then I have a break in the weather... I hope to do some time lapse stuff

Yeah I tried telling her.. the sad thing is the car has yet to hit 100K I told her to take it back and have them flush it but again fell on deaf ears...

I should show this thread to my aunt.. long story short her coolant was low and I noticed it needed to be flushed (she has a 95 ford taurus btw) so because it was low and the temp was climbing I added like 2 bottles worth to the car.. Anyways the idiot at the shell service station was like the car does not need to be flushed.. no $hit i just threw in 2 bottles which really diluted the whole system... she's never had the car flushed before.. I gave up trying to tell her...

What year IAC did you take apart? I took mine apart on a 95 it's nothing but a coil magnet which controls the shutter. I used a whole can on the IAC and it was fine.. you are right nothing much to clean but I was able to control moving it without fighting a magnet.

I have high idle on my car.. it's high enough that I can put the car in first gear and let the clutch out slowly and it will ride along like it's in a auto not putting on the brakes. I'm going to guess it's my IAC I had the same problem on my 95 the idle would but jumpy right after starting when warm.. on this car it shoots up to like almost 2K when warm. Stupid me I was right at the dealer today and I forgot to pick the gasket up for the IAC...

careful on rubber hoses with the carb cleaner it makes them hard and brittle.. I got a little too careless one day with it..

Well other things you can check are the resistance of the spark plug wires.. they don't last forever.. make sure they don't get too close to the injector wires because some cheap wires can cause a misfire by being too close.. Spark plugs whens the last time they were replaced? Also the coil pack resistance can be checked as well but most of the time one that starts to go bad tends to have a misfire like 3 & 4 or 1 & 2..

The MAF code could be a bad connection.. sometimes over time the connections can oxidate.. or moisture can get in those areas. The other stuff not too sure about.

lol been in my closet for like a year and a half the screws for it are in the ziplock back.. that and my front seal are leaking like mad... I hope it's not going to rain but it seems like it's going to :-/ Oh well...

p0183 - Fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input P0341 - Camshaft position sensor circuit range error P0403 - EGR circuit malfunction P1100 - Mass Air Flow sensor or circuit malfunction

One question... 4th picture down why does that cylinder wall look funny? was that because of the cooling neglect? It's like a chunk of metal went away..

Misfire on what cylinders?

I guess I got everything.. starting off the week with two days of rain.. but who cares if you get wet.. Uploaded with ImageShack.us new T-stat Almost $5

For Monday... Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Question im at the dealer now the oring for the back of the pump the part number is 806919050 ?

I have to go to the auto store today to get a 18 in long extension so I will be picking up some brake cleaner anyways.

My 97 OBW does the same as far as sticking and what you describe my guess is it has a spring to help providing some resistant pressing and coming back up.

hmm coolant smell? Did it smell hot?

looks good!