1-3-2-4

Since I got a little paranoid I went ahead and washed it in soap and water really well.. Just sitting in the box now I wont install it until Monday or Tuesday.

yeah the red & black is what you should of used that stuff is solid.

I had this stuff since like '04 or '05 never opened I just want to know if it's still good?

hey the valve clearance for the EJ25D is: Intake: 0.20 Exhaust: 0.25 Is that right? That number above sounds very large.. I'm looking in my FSM under On car services under engine specifications. *edit haha forget it forgot that's in mm

I can tell you right now most if not all of the wielders they have are too powerful for exhaust tubing.. I used the 90 amp and it's easy to burn holes if your not careful.

Interesting today I could not get the clutch to slip much at all today only a tiny bit when going WOT in 3rd it slipped for about a second.. I hope all that massive slipping is not what I think it is.. as far as it being the seal on the transmission since I don't want to put too much into it.

I think JB wield is good for up to 600F something like that.. i remember when I was doing a cut off shield for my HID JB Wield was the only stuff that could stand infront of the bulb and not melt like the other glues.. I was peaking like 345F

hmm interesting they are like grade 10 bolts or something like that right?

Ah ok, Wed my valve cover gasket and slave cylinder and intake manifold gaskets should be here. I'm right now trying to find a torque wrench that measures in in pounds I think the lowest one of mine goes down to is 5 Ft pounds. besides I don't think most Tq wrenches are really that on point at a low setting like that.

Oh man what I men to say/add in was the sealant for the caps they say not to add to much to block the oil passageways. in the FSM it's depicted as this unless the line is showing going straight then going around the hole

Do you happen to know the size of the bolts? They look to be around 11-12mm?

I hate to bring this up in this thread but why is that TSK1 kit so expensive for something that only looks like $60 in parts?

They are, assuming you have a 95 legacy L? the part number should be 30531AA111

yeah I was reading over your thread and I'm sure it will be easy enough when I have the motor in front of me to look at. I printed out the whole FSM so I should be well covered on specs and what to seal.. only thing that has me a tad confused is the cam caps the arrows they point to is it just a single thin line horizontal top and bottom?

for those that ordered the amazon KSB04 clutch kit is the shipping time really 5-8 days? might be a good time to try amazon prime..

Thanks GD and and impact gun to the FW bolts lol... I do have a Tq wrench and from what I can see and heard the FW bolts can round easy.. at least that's what I heard.. I wont get to see for myself until the weekend next week

Well it came early today but Fedex dropped it off on the wrong floor. What I'm trying to do is when I do take it off how to keep the flywheel from turning.. As you know everything Subaru is always a special tool so I'm sure someone here as thought of something to keep it from turning?

kinda.. leave the top outer bolts in by a few threads just in case the head wants to fall off the block.. other then that it's easy..

Another way to tell is when mine snapped I would bring the pedal back up with my hand and lightly press it again, if it snaps back down on it's own it's for sure snapped.

In that case it sounds like you clutch cable snapped.

Are the nuts rusted? I had an issue like that before.. I had to use something else to hold one of them while I turned the first to loosen it up. is the car movable with the clutch pedal stuck down?

do you have two nuts on the cable? one is a lock nut to keep the adjustable one from moving.. from my last time of having to replace two cables they tend to fail at the crimp near the fork or my last cable that broke the clevis pin at the clutch pedal just shattered when coming off the expressway. if the cable's not broken you need to adjust the nut adjuster to get the right engagement point for the clutch. also the cable can stretch but since I can't see the cable you need to figure out if it's broken.. In my case I used a cheap video camera and sat it down looking at the clutch fork and saw it was moving at the same time I was moving it.. And also it's been awhile but I think with you having the rod so far out the clutch it stuck to the floor.. I think it should be the other way around... It's been over a year since I had a cable clutch car but it sounds like you need to play with the adjustment more.

I have this CRC throttle body & air-intake cleaner can it be used to clean off the surface of a flywheel?

21 lbs

Pictures 6 & 7 show me what they go to http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1106_subaru_oil_system_upgrade/sti_pickup.html