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That's not what I have.. from the master cylinder is a banjo bolt on both ends which goes to the clutch damper then another banjo from that to the slave cylinder.. how in the heck can they not have the part number for it?? I can't drive the car at all because brake fluid is leaking out from the line that goes to the slave cylinder.

I have a 97 legacy outback and I thought I had the right number however the hose from the slave cylinder to I guess is the clutch damper is banjo on both ends.. The part I have is part number 37251AC001

The funny thing is the one that's on the car now was one from ebay about 2 years ago.. I had a new one still in the box from ebay until about 2 months ago I installed it on this women's car.. I have my doubts about how long these ebay sensors last.. and before anyone asks yes I installed it in the right direction.. it's only because part of the metal casting is higher in that spot (that's why the sensor slopes upwards)

yes the EGR moves when I rev i, last time I cleaned it the pipe that goes to the BPT was the one that was clogged and not the copper pipe to the head.

Yeah it was nuts.. I mean when I opened my hood I had coolant dripping from it.. so I assumed it was something uptop. Shes good now.. I just need to fix these rust spots now

lol it sucks I had AAA before but the gold card.. well I got my membership back last year (white card) and I was about 10 miles from home when my old Ej25d spun a rod.. so not knowing how many miles you get (gold I think is 100 miles) they told me the first 3 miles were free and I think anything after that was $5 a mile.. I almost said WTF on phone.. I got one more year until I can get the gold card again lol, I was trying to keep my speed up to keep the air moving but I swear you run into real idiots.. come on.. 10 mph on the back road really? At that time the temps started to rise very rapid so I just pulled over. crazy how it for being so low blew all up ontop of my motor

Oh well I ended up just getting it from the dealer I needed the hose but that was a few hours ago, I guess a lot of people must be out enjoying the outdoors funny stuff like this always happens in stop and go traffic, when the car started to hit the upper range of the temp I pulled over and just called AAA waited an hour and towed me to my destination 2 miles away (yes I was that close) It was a ripoff for that hose but I was not driving all the way to subarupartsforyou in Milford I would of never made it.

Does anyone know if this hose can be picked up from advance or autozone? The dealer wants $22 for the hose.

This code is back and the car has a huge loss in power and sucks up fuel in the process I can hardly get 200 miles from the tank at the moment.. I have this and the P0325 code.. I cleaned out the pipes in I think early Dec or late Dec. Can't be clogged up already.. I remember I cleaned out everything because I took the IM off to powdercoat it and cleaned all the lines.

Heres the spoob that happened yesterday.. I got a harassing phone call from this guy about the car and I told him I'm going behind someone else who fucked the car up.. they adjusted the stop screw, IAC and TPS.. I said keep it up and the cops will be glad to visit you.. so he slowed his tune down saying he was sorry.. So he ended up screwing up the car again.. he threw the TPS out of wack again so the point where the 4EAT AT light flashes on the dash on start up and the code for the TPS circuit too low code shows.. He adjusted the IAC while the car was running.. adjusted the idle stop screw while the car was running.. the car idles about 1000 in park and around 700 or so in gear.. He says this is the car that brings home the money... But yet the brakes on the car are shot to spoob to the point where you have to press the brakes to the floor in order to stop.. IMHO I'm done with that car.. they want to screw it up go right ahead!

I set it so it mirrors my own working car.. The only codes now I'm left with is P0507 and p1507 I'm about this close to throwing my hands up and getting a throttle body from the yard and replacing it.. Too much crazy stuff was messed with this car... Mind you this women has really bad brakes.. I told her about it (whole wheel shakes when putting on brakes) and a huge amount of air in the lines.. to the point if you press the pedal to the floor it's like lightly pressing the brakes on a working system.. Told her and she said.. I know! It's OK I don't drive fast.... next thing I know it will be metal on metal or metal to brake fins..

Well OK that code is gone but I have two new codes... P0507 and p1507 The car is a automatic so could the inhibitor switch be bad?

I should of said I check the sensor to ground and I got something like 5.1v and signal to ground and that was fine Mirrored my car settings and as soon as I started the car the idle went between 1000 and 2500 over and over

The code is p0122 about the tps circuit.. Long story short a friend had another do some work and got a code for the sensor and the car shakes bad.. So looking at it I see he adjusted the TPS and stop screw.. I'm having a hard time getting it to idle normal and not try and idle at 1500.. When the cell for the TPS comes on car is really really down on power. So now I took measurements from my onw can and saw the stop screw was really off as in the top bar was resting on the throttle body when closed.. My voltages when at idle are .48v and 4.56v WOT haven't tested yet after mirroring my cars settings.

OK I did with the soldering iron and cleaned the mad film with cleaner with a q-tip and took it out on the highWay doing wot runs and it's OK now

Hmm I tested with my meter as well I see no bad connections under the cover.

The rubber seal on the harness right? I own 5 soldering irons so it's no big deal.. I hope it's not going to be a pain to get the cap off.. I just don't want it to happen during rush hour if I take the car this evening.

The year is in my sig, the engine is a 22E with 25D heads, no work done in the past 3 months.. I ended up spraying the MAF and it started and ran fine.. I ended up backing up into my spot at home and I sat in the car and the car just stalled on me.. I waited about 5 min and I started it up and it ran normal. If I pull the MAF harness the car will die instantly. I notice the harness no longer clicks to lock on the MAF and for what reason I don't know why. but it's not like it's falling out as well.

I was driving in traffic and as always in stop and go the car dies in middle lane.. I did get it started but it lacks power but I can't find much info about this other then cleaning the mad which I will do since I was able to make it to the auto store. Anyone else have this issue before? What did you do to fix it?

It's a SUS so it's a 2.5 DOHC. And yes before the battery on my phone died I noticed I was checking the wrong wires so the TPS is fine.. the IAC on the other hand I don't know.. the friken PCV hose that leads to the block was fully blocked.. I had to clean that out plus drive 40 miles to get the a replacement PCV hose connector because it snapped on the first pull of a hose.. Anyways, I did not fully take off the IACV because of the gasket issue so I just did the front side of it.. I do have a spare one from a EJ22.. what I used to clean it was throttle body cleaner which is what I had on hand.

Also the car is a 99 legacy sus with a auto..

I get codes p0507 and p1507 cleaned IAC and may.. Testing tps pins 1 & 2 I get 5 v idle and 1.0v wot

I haven't heard anything back yet but I will ask her what led up to it blowing.

She just told me it did crazy over heat white smoke from exhaust and under hood.. She found a motor for $500 Plus tax and her mechanic will do it for $325 She is not sure of the mileage on the motor but the place as a warranty for 30 days.

I tried to tell her that.. In the case when I replaced my EJ25 with a EJ22 (I'm going a different way with my motor) I took the heads off the ej22 which had sitting for who knows how long.. it has some pretty hefty rust in one of the cylinder walls, no way in the world would I take one right up and stick it in a car and run it. 189K is on the low end.. I had a '95 legacy and I had 225K on that and the only reason I don't have it and the motor was because it was totaled.