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I think when I did mine on the legacy I used heat and PB blaster after that it started to come off.

Aww man I feel for you with that ********************* of a cop.. I'm just speechless.. I hope you find it intact.

Ah ok I've heard of some people saying they did not put the pins back so it's best to mark where they go in case they don't put them back. Hopefully that wont be the case

About the flywheel resurface do I pull out the pins and mark where they go back or is that the shops job to pull them?

I always thought they were pretty pricey.. I checked them out for used transmissions.. I think they wanted like $1,000+ for one that was listed as broken or not tested..

nice I was too chicken to think I would be the first to buy them and find that they would of been too cheap. nice to know if I ever need them

I somehow came upon this manual searching about heads.. not sure if it's been posted here or not but pretty cool info.. and man the EZ engines look like a pain to work on. http://phantomotaku.com/SVX/011822-MSA5P0631C.pdf

Uhmm wow.. I thought that messsage never got posted.. for some reason this site makes my HTC evo run very slow on typing it's like a 3 second delay on each key press.. I just backed out because it took so long to type.. Anyways what I was going to say was I was asking on Garage journal yesterday about if I could of used my digital caliper instead of the micrometer but given the limits in the FSM I was better off with the mic instead. I don't do anything serious with my caliper because it seems to vary sometimes when closing back to zero.. I do use it if I come up to some large size nut that I'm unsure of the size. the one I have is also a vernier mic but I might pick one up in metric later.. I just can't see using it much after doing the valve adjust

I was asking on the garage journal yesterday about this, my digital caliper does like

Ha yeah I figured that much I dont trust any digital one yet

So I picked up my first outside micrometer that can do 0.0001" all because I need to check the shims on the car.. Seems to be pretty handy

lol no the rear seal on the back of the engine is like 4 times larger and if it's not leaking then no need to touch it since it hardly ever leaks.. it's really the rear oil separator plate cover that tends to leak. but in a timing belt kit depending on the kit and your motor a DOHC kit should at least have 4 cam seals and at leak one crank seal that goes where the crank pulley is.. just take it easy and don't gouge the metal.

yeah I slept on it and woke up this morning and I understand now, I forgot to pick up a micrometer last time I was out

my cam seals on my Ej22 were leaking bad and so was my PS pump.. it would never hold the right level cold or hot. oddly as it is my EJ25 does hold the right level at both temps.

I was reading over at 2.5RS and they have a topic on removing the engine but someone made a good point, and I figure I would ask you.. would removing the driver's axle off the transmission stub help any? If everything is still the same one is a nut and the other is a bolt?

my 95 FWD impreza lost reverse back in 2004 it was not worth the hassle I just got rid of the car. The first time I noticed something was not right was backing up to the gas pump which is on a small hill It was slipping.. Soon later I had to push myself backwards when leaving work.

I was looking in the haynes manual last night, now people say the shims falls right out but haynes says you need a tool to push down on the bucket to remove the shim but turning it? Also anyone that has the haynes manual can someone tell me what's on page 2A-7 & 2A-8 since someone ripped it out when i got the book new. The way haynes says to find the new shim is a little confusing.. they say Exhaust valve S= (V +T) - 0.010 inch T = Thickness of the old shim V = Valve clearance measured S = Thickness of the new shim

I might be doing it all over again.. my struts were blown very bad on my 95 Legacy at like 230K my current OBW has 225K on it and I'm sure it's the same factory struts when new.. I had no clue that the springs were so cheap at the dealer I might do all 4 before winter I hope..

LOL I just wanted to do it faster...

I have a tube of ultra grey seems pretty pointless now that I have the anaerobic stuff..

Hopefully my late uncle has something in the basement he was a linesmen

I Yeah I don't want to lift from that area too I think someone posted where the lifting points were before I'd have to check a little later.. head is pounding.. I also know some people say to take the intake manifold off before you take it out and some people lift by it... So anyone know about the shins for the exhaust valves? More like how do you measure and find out the replacement shim you need? Is it subtracting the gap and the current installed shim?

When lifting it tends to tilt forward right? I'm sure I can find something to hook around it

I decided to put my engine picker together today while it was 100F outside.. and while I have a stupid cold.. I'm not sure when I started my timer but I was done in a little under an hour.. I had to store it in the basement just in-case someone tries to walk off with it, but the basement is down some 3 shallow steps haha going to be fun getting it back up the steps when it's time.. Did anyone use a engine leveller with it? Hmm for my first time I wonder how long it's going to take... I took these pictures because I'm working in some tight spaces. That line to the EGR a offset wrench will work best on it right? I might have to give it a shot of PB blaster the compression fitting is a little rusted.

^ Funny I heard it was the other way around when searching online as far as driving hard and whatnot.