1-3-2-4

also make sure none of the wiring is hanging down near the axles.. I'm not sure if mine was factory but my wire was so long it was rubbing on the passenger side drive axle and I caught it before it wore out the wire (got the protective sleeve)

First of all carfax and all the clones are expensive for what's really just showing you past info.. having said that I know what I need to do as far as the transmission as talked about in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121920 but given this is a Ej25D I gotta check the normal things they are put down over... HG. my question is the valves and how to adjust them really which is why I made this thread.. I mean how many owners really do that? is the adjustment like every 100K or 105K miles? The shim piece I'm just using a feeler between the lobe and the shim right? I'm going to ask about the timing belt but just in case I get the "I don't know" I'm looking over the service manual here and I'm not sure how the DOHC is... but it says not to rotate the intake and exhaust cams after the belt is off, but if I remember wont one side be under load? I know when I did mine on the EJ22 it was easy as pie but I had to keep it so it would not snap back. I mean if I gotta remove the cam sprockets to replace the seal behind it, it's going to move.. if I'm reading right the passenger side when rotating the cams will have the valves open but the drivers side will be closed when lined up? I know I will triple check by rotating the engine by hand to double check

What is the right stuff? three bond I've never seen locally..

can I use RTV to seal the tranny back up?

just put all the pictures in one post one after the other.

Yeah for sure..

hahaha that's good enough for me!

heheh what do I win?!?

My blinkers and back lights total are going to run me around $70 total red and amber 3 stars cost a lot

whoo done after 3 1/2 hours! a single LED on will be bright enough so 2 is going to be very bright! it was hard to have them centered but that's more because I should of used a larger heatsink size I wont know for sure until I plug it in the car I can't tell which is + and - in the car.. one side of the connector has a silver dot on it so I don't know what that means.. I'm going to be doing LED blinkers I expect it to be around 3-5% brighter then stock.

Well I'm feeling good enough to start modding my map lights now I have yet to touch anything since that package came in like a month ago.. I'm pretty sure from 97 all the way to an 02 wrx the connections fit.

I have a 1/2" breaker bar so I should be ok since i'm going to be doing all of this I should replace the rear separator plate? Did they still use plastic back in 97? I still got the plate and the screws in the closet. I'm going to guess my jack at it's max height is tall enough to slip the tranny out sideways

anyone know what size the driveshaft bolts are? I need to get some hand tools since mine are all SAE sized.

glad everything worked out!

are they 6" round? I was going to put lamin-x on them but I'm unsure how good that stuff is.. I asked in off topic but it hasn't been posted yet.. My question is how does it hold up to say being maybe 6 hours a day in the sun? I'm thinking about getting clear for the headlights

That makes sense

This is the 93 legacy? The green plugs are for reading the codes

Yeah I find most of that is for side markker lights or turn signals

trying to guess your car and year...

out of all of this I'm shocked OBX never decided to make a R160 rear LSD.. I mean it can't be that much harder.. but I know they more cater to the FWD crowd.

ah I understand.. question, the pair of jackstands I have now the max list is 16 3/8" is that high enough to take the tranny out while it's turned sideways? I've never tried to lift at the max height because for one I never needed to go that high. And I'm going to guess it's going to be better off if I can raise the car level? I'm sure that high of an angle is going to be a pain. finally I can have reason enough to get another jackstand and another is to check the replacement transmission while it's in the air. Anyone have a part number to that bushing linkage that held in by the spring pin that connects to the shift rod? if I'm going to drop the tranny then I want a nice feeling shift I'd hate to go to the dealer and just print out a picture and point to it and they are clueless *edit is the part # 35047AC030? I thought it was only a $24 part..

I'm sure it's going to need another transmission but what fun is it to just take it out and not open it Speaking of that what can you get for the transmission in scrap?

Nice glad you saw that thread I need to go back over with it.. once things settle down and I do open my tranny I will feel more at ease doing it.. I could of used a a LSD in the front and year this past snow.. I got stuck in the snow it took me about 3 min to get myself unstuck.. the front right and left rear got down to the pavement but too much snow. I think it had more to do because it was a tad uphill because i got home and I used my car to plow a lot that had 5 inches down..

Thanks

They are wired to turn off when the high beams are on right? I can't remember for sure since I wired mine so I could turn them on independent from the headlights