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Posts posted by Russ Hill
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The secondary idle jet should probably be a 50. With a 60 it won't transition very well, and will be boggy when you put your foot on it.
Both jets 50? or should I drop the primary side to a 40 or 45?
I was alredy thinking about a 45 on the primary......
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Do not over tighten the nut that holds the linkage on. The sign of a tight nut is high idle.
Replace fuel filter(s) before the Weber goes on.
Thanks,
I forgot to mention that when I opened it up to look at the jets, the fuel bowl was filthy....... It would have had jet issued as soon and I fired it up, I was shocked that it was assembled like that..... Word to the wise, open and inspect the carb before you throw it on
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No pics needed really...it is a direct replacement. Remove the nut, remove the weber linkage, install the hitachi piece, put the nut back on. Bingo bango, done.
Thanks, for some reason, I was thinking there were spacers used...
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Finally pulling the weber off of the shelf for the install on the old '83.
Now I'm just prepping.....
stock EA81, 4X4 4Spd, with a 2WD dizzy
- It's the K662 kit
- Idle jets are 50 and 60
- Mains are both 140.
- Air correctors are 160 and 170
- The nozzle is 60
That all looks pretty close, at least good enough to get it started.
But, I have searched and can't find an old thread that had good pictures of the Hitachi kinkage swap.... Can anybody point me to it?
any advice on the jets?
Thanks guys
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Most of us I think! I'm in Vancouver (WASHINGTON!)
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Mind linking to them? I'm getting ready to install one myself.
http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm
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I found them in the Old, Old, Really Old, linked to USRM . They seem to be missing from the stickied one, we ought to fix that.
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Sorry,
The old thread in the USRM has lost it's pictures....
I just got my Weber and would like to see step by step pix. Also, does anyone have Cameron's old fuel line routing diagram?
Thanks
Russ
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^^^What he said.
What He said ^^^^^
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It's condensation, very common in cold weather. If you had coolant in the oil it would look like pancake batter (trust me :-\ ) change the PCV valve.
Also, pull off your PCV line and valve then, take some stiff wire and make sure that the fitting going into the intake and the rubber line is clear. The PCV port and line tend to get blocked by carbon, this causes crank case pressure to build up. This could be the source of your oil leaks.
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If you already have the PS rack, you can avoid trying to find scarce EA81 PS parts and install the much easier to find EA82 power steering pump using my adapter kit
This will give you 2 advantages over the stock EA81 setup. First, the parts are easier to find for the EA82 units, and second, there is no tensioner hanging down in harms way on the passenger side head to get reipped off off-road.
Here it is mounted on a EA81. Works with SPFI conversions and Weber carb conversions.
-Bill
That's pretty sweet Bill.
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I would like to get power steering. Did the '83 have it stock? I dont think it has the pump, but there are fittings on the rack. There is 4 fittings, but only two are hooked up. Where do the 4 go? Thanks.
You will need the rack and crossmember (with pump and lines attached), steering column, brackets, power steering thermostat housing (seriously) and your passenger side head has to be tapped for the bracket.
You can probably get it all from one car in the u-pullit. I also have a complete power steering parts car here in Vancouver/Portland. It's pretty much a bolt on as long as your passenger side head is tapped.
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I noticed it last week too, here it looked like they mixed it with water and layed it down before the ice hit. At least here in western WA, we rarely see snow, so they won't wip it out too often. :-\
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Great,
I have an FSM that shows the bolts and I'm pulling the windshield too so it all works out!
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I'm going after a MINT dash pad for my '83 in the u-pullit, But, I've never pulled one before. Any Tips?
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I'm the original owner of my '83 GL 4X4 Wagon.
This thread got to pulling out my receipts, I seem to have lost my original sticker and purchase paperwork. It seems like I paid less than $9.8000.00 but I can't remember.
My '85 cost $11,000 I remember that.
I have pretty much replaced everything (except the motor, it has never been open) once in 250,000 miles. All I've had to do is the usual maintenance and replacement stuff, water pump, starter, clutch. ETC.
Right now the car is apart in my garage because I'm rebuilding the front end and the motor is in the shop for a reseal job to close up nagging leaks (but it ran perfect).
I redid the rear of the car a while back. I figure that the car will be good for another 200,000 when I get it back together this time.
I plan on respraying the paint this summer
I will never sell this car, It's a family member!
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Anybody ever bought a car cover for their wagon,
I need one for my '83
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Does anyone have a source for the stock green?
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Original owner '83 GL 4X4 Wagon.
205,000:banana:
I have replaced the the clutch once, 1 alternator and 1 starter
I'm pulling the motor this week to fix the Oil leaks and have the head gaskets done (they aren't leaking, I just figured it was time).
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Makes perfect sense to me! I'd install an EA-81 in one anytime! I HATE EA-82's
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Where is it?
I have no power to the pump, I'm guessing the fuse but it isn't marked on the panel.
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Hmmm,
I doubt it's the pump. On my power steering Subies, the steering is light even when the car is off.
Could be the rack, could be the steering box. Look to see if something is binding up. Try it with the wheels in the air.
Hi Everybody,I have question about power steering. I have hard time to turn wheels, seems like something wrong with my power steering. Sometimes is better and other time worse. I had that problem, before I replaced transmission, but after was all good. But After while it got worse and worse. I checked fluid and it's low little bit, but nothing major I think. Could be low on pressure or pump is dead. Could someone give some opinion what could be possibly wrong. Thank you so much.
Kristian
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I've never tried just sliding the motor forwards, That might work......
I'd just pull the motor. You can easily have it out in under an hour. I completely swapped the motor in my Hatch last year in about 90 minutes.
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Hey, that guy stole my idea!!!!!
Man...
It's too bad exhaust has to exit behind the rear tires in Washington.....
prepping for Weber install
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Thanks guys, I'll run over to Bartosh here in town, they should have a pretty good assortment of weber jets.