JacksonRally

Some of the earlier pics are gone but it gets going again around page 10 or so. As far as longer travel struts.....some rally coilovers have a little more travel but if you have a properly dampened strut you can get away with a mild bolt on coilover. Check out what Barrett from All Wheels Driven (out of Oregon) has to offer. Great struts and great price. I just recently went to a 04 STI strut on my car which has a touch less travel than I had stock but valving is waaaay better. I am also working on a prototype long travel strut (10'' of useable travel) but you are looking at around 4k for the set. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=765 Here is the bolt on package with the long travel strut (bolts onto an Impreza chassis also)

You have described my car to the "T"

Yeah went through the EJ a bit, new headgaskets, resealed oil pan and new timing belt/tensioner/idlers are the major bits. And yes sticking with the dr Right now I am getting a bit frustrated seeing my car sit outside collecting cob webs like crazy right now. I really really really need to find some time to get it back in the shop and get going on it again.

Forester Im building for my brother. 98 2.5 dohc 4eat -Jackson Rally prototype lift -Jackson Rally long travel prototype 50mm inverted struts -30x9.50x15 BFG ATs -JR tube skid frame -05 STI hubs/knuckles on all 4 corners -Subaru 4pot front calipers with JR rotor/hat -STI rear Brembo calipers -05 STI front control arms -04 STI front axles -Custom JR spec Summers Bros. rear axles -ABS removed with JR stainless hardlines -CB radio -Satellite radio -Ham radio -added 12v outlets front and rear cargo area -Optima Red Top *in the works* -Roof rack -4 forward facing Baja Designs prerunner hid lights -2 rear facing aux lights -1 rear facing amber light -Front and rear plate bumpers with 8000lb winch -Rock sliders Still a work in progress but finally got it up and running to take some quick pics outside the shop

With any luck I will have my xt6 clutch in a few weeks. Then I can finally install motor and trans!!!!!

Well the shocks are not a bolt in. They will require fabbing up a new upper shock mount.

Back to the topic at hand GL update I pulled all of the factory brakelines out of the engine bay. Got rid of the hill holder that I disconnected anyways. I resprayed the booster and got a master cylinder out of a newer Legacy. Now I am making new stainless hardlines. Here are the lines out of the master to the rear lines. New muffler, 2.25'' in 2.25'' out And finally the start to my suspension rebuild. Fox 2.0, 10'' stroke coilovers for the rear. They dont exactly fit or bolt on but they will

Ill have my brother start a thread on the build. Now the Forester is getting closer I can start to put some time in on the GL again.....soon. Tires are 30x9.50x15

ok so heres whats really been keeping me from working on the GL Im building my brother a Subaru wheeler. Heres the FOZZWLR

Just noticed your location. Not many people from CA on here. If you want you can cruise up to my shop to check out a couple of projects I have going on. I think all of your questions will be answered. Shop is in Murrieta, north of you up the 15.

Talk about sloooooow goin. Im just about ready to work on my car again. Next will be to order xt6 clutch. Then clean up engine bay a little more and install motor/trans. Hoping to make some progress in the next couple of weeks.

First post says no one makes these??? I've been making them for a few years now.

Thanks for the tip. I havent crossed that bridge yet.

In this pic you might be able to see where I had to cut 2 lines. These are the lines that would bolt right up to the EJ p/s lines. I had to cut these down because the fitment was a little off with the EA crossmember as they come up behind the pass side and the EA used to cross the front and end up at pass side. Im thinking I will try to re-flare these lines. I am already planning on re-making the lines that come right off the pump. Otherwise fitment is direct bolt on! Pretty sure any Impreza/WRX/STI rack will work up to 2004. In 2005 the crossmember changed and so did the rack mounting.

Free I work on Subies all day building rally cars and what ever else someone wants to turn their Subaru into, plus my buddy has a Subaru shop in town where he does any and everything mechanical so we aquire a ton of newer parts. It was pretty much just lying around.

I can assume it is a quicker ratio, havent looked that up. But mostly the new stuff is just newer, a little better technology, little beefier, shouldnt leak like my GL rack did and should have a better feel. Also I can get ahold of these easier than another GL rack.

It might be a little tough to see but here is where i welded in a piece of strap to keep the trans mount from moving after the rubber was torn. Here is the GL rack Here is the WRX rack Here is the rough cut to get WRX rack to fit Finished trimming Installed And heres a shot of the cut core support (trying to get 01 radiator and ac condenser to fit)

When I first got this car I replaced all of the o rings in the rack but it seemed to still leak. Now that the car is apart again I figured I would tackle the rack again. I pulled it out and put it on the table then for some reason I decided to compare it to an Impreza rack that a customer brought in and surprisingly the way they mounted looked similar. Everything else on the Impreza rack is way beefier. So 2 hours later I modified the engine crossmember enough to fit an 02 WRX steering rack!! I still have to clean up the enlarged hole but will take pics tomorrow. After dealing with the rack I decided to pull the trans to clean up the engine bay/firewall. After a few torn cv boots there is a nice layer of smudge that needs to be cleaned. So I drained the trans fluid and was just about to put the drain plug back in when I noticed something metal about to fall through the hole.....I pulled out an entire dipstick I thought somehow mine had busted off of the handle and fell down but nope, seems that at some point someone broke it off and left it in the trans. Ill just keep on keepin on cause Ive been driving it around for a year and a half like that. Im hoping to get an xt6 clutch real soon then the motor and trans can go back in!

Cool. Glad they are bringing them back. I put a call into ARB US today and they said they have been getting a bunch of inquiries about fitment into a rear r180. They wont have them in the States til mid March and when they do arrive the tech department is going to check fitment in a rear r180. Ill give them another call in about a month.

I was looking into this at one point for the R200 which was used in the front of many Nissan 4x4s. I had a buddy of mine at the local Off Road Warehouse call ARB USA and they make a locker for the R200 but my question was will it work for the R200 rear diffs out of the Z cars. They said if its an R200 then it will. Not difinetive but I agree that its just the carrier so it should work. It would be nice to have someone at ARB say "YEP" to be 1000% sure before someone shells out $1100 or more. Either way I just have to say FINALLY

06 wrx wagon 1'' Jackson Rally lift 215/75/15 BFG at's 15'' OZ Rally wheels 87 GL wagon 5'' front 4'' rear Jackson Rally one off lift 30'' BFG at's undergoing ej25 swap

Thanks! Yeah its a ea d/r :cool:

Thanks! Its definetly a labor of love. (1)The plate I made is actually .5'', I did at one point do all the proper measuring and it should actually be some where around 14.5mm-15mm thick (dont remember the exact number) But from what I've read 99.9% of the folks doing this run a .5'' plate. Im pretty sure the difference can be made up in the clutch cable adjustment. I started out with a $70 piece of 6061 aluminum at 17''x14'', now its only worth like 3 bucks in scrap . To make it I had a ej block and a d/r case lying around and started with the 2 bottom bolt/stud holes and made those super precise and then transferred all the ej holes from there (including dowels). Then with the 2 bottom holes dead on I slid the plate onto the d/r case and transferred those holes to the plate. Then cut the profile with a jig saw. Total 8 hrs of my own labor. (2)As far as the motor mounts I guess I never caught onto why they would tear but what you said makes sense. I will just fix it like I did my trans mount. Im gonna set the motor then just weld a piece of strap from plate to plate on the motor mount itself. This will not allow the mount to move at all. I know this will dramatically increase the vibrations from the motor into the chassis but thats how I do it on race cars. If its too much for a daily driver then I will just mimic the way the mounts already have the hard stop just a bit closer so they dont allow the motor to jump when they stretch. I think I have all of the a/c stuff I need but if I dont I will see if you do. I really cant wait for this to be done Ive been missing out on too many wheeling trips. The next real hurdle I have is to make all new a/c, heater ducting. Not gonna be fun. A little at a time I guess.

Makin progress Widdled out this bad boy saturday

I did two things I told myself I wouldnt do. 1 was tear into the harness to remove abs stuff. Hours later I pulled out all of the abs crap from the engine bay harness. 2 was make my own motor plate. Oh well its almost done then I can finally drop the motor in. Still have a ton of work to do but its getting there.