iransom

I was able to remove the left or driverside timing belt cover and get a good look at the timing belt. It seemed tight and in place. i mark a location on the belt with some chalk and when I attempted to crank the engine I notice the time belt had not move. Is that normal?

First, thing in the morning, I will remove one or both of the end covers and look for a broken timing belt. Is it common for a broken belt to cause the cam position sensor to go off?

Also when I had both the green and black connectors connected at the same time I started to hear a clicking noise until I disconnected one of them. Is there a way to clear the codes when the car wont start?

I located the green and black connecters and connected the green connecters and got a code 13 and according to the Haynes manual code 13 is the cam angle sensor. I hope its not the timing belt. Are there any symptoms or sounds that would let me know that its the timing belt?

I went to the junk yard and got a used camshaft sensor and the car is still having the same problem crank but no start. Is this a part that I should buy new? How can I test the cam sensor?

I finally got the codes read which is something I should have done at first. The only code given was 13 which is the camshaft sensor. I could not locate the green and black connecters so I disconnected a white connector and it gave me the code. Next the salvage yard for the part.

How do I manually turn the motor to conduct a crankshaft position sensor test?

Is there a way to manually check the codes? If so please provide the steps. I was told that the code reader for the year of my car 1992 is expensive. Is it possible to rent one? I will check with the different auto parts stores today. The area where the crankshaft sensor is located is covered with debris. Could this affect that part? Thanks for your responses. Info only: My car has over 234000 miles and the timing belt was replaced last year.

I did the reading and I got a 11.74 voltage from the yellow or middle pin on the cable from the battery. The two end pins gave no reading. How can I tell if the igniter is bad? I got it from the salvage yard.

:DI have a test light and a digital multimeter. Please describe how I would check for the 12 volts from the battery to this yellow cable and where is this cable located. Is it the small three pin cable that plugs into the ignition coil cable? So I need to have the ignition on but not trying to crank it. I checked fuse #16 (ignition) and it was in good condition.

I conducted an ignition coil test using a digital multimeter on the three-terminal connector from the coil. Terminal 1 & 2 I got a reading of 1.2 and for terminal 2 & 3 I got a reading of 1.1. Haynes manual recommended 0.63 to 0.77. Could this also be a cranshaft sensor problem? A few times recently while driving on the hwy it was hard to accelerate and almost stalled.

I removed a hose from the fuel filter and tried cranking the car and plenty of fuel came out. So, this should let me know that the fuel pump and fuel pump relay is working properly. Please confirm. Also, where is the crank position sensor?

Thanks for your reponses. We check for sparks but no sparks. The ignition coil and igniter came from a 1992 Subaru Legacy at the salvage with 274000 miles. I am going to take the coil to autozone for testing and is there a way to test the igniter? Could this also be the fuel pump relay going bad?Thanks for your responses.

I have a 1992 Legacy. Its automatic. Last Thursday it stalled on me in traffic. It had gas in it. As i tried to start it, it would crank but not start. I had to have it towed. Today, I used a test light on the coil and got no light on the two outside wires. We changed out the ignition coil and the igniter but with the same results. Now we are looking for the fuel pump relay but cant find it. Can someone provide the location for the fuel pump relay and any other ideas would be of great assistance.

Sorry, for not stating that its a 1992 Subaru Legacy. I am getting a strong order smell inside the car. It happens when its warm and cold. I haven't notice any fuel leaks. How can I tell if its the EVAP canister or the EVAP Purge Solenoid? Also, where is the EVAP Purge Solenoid located? I also get the smell through the vents.

I think I posted to much. But I want to thank you all for the quick responses and valuable information.

Thanks for the response and the link. This steps in the link was basically how I plan to do it. However, going through the preparation steps today jacking up the car and looking at the area I had only one problem it was with the spring pin. The opening was at the top and the head was at the bottom. Please confirm that I can rotate the axle to put the spring pin in place for the hammer and punch. In hindsight I should have tried this when I had the car on jacks this morning.

Thanks for the response. Following this procedure was basically my plan. However, going through the preparation steps today jacking up the car and looking at the area I had only one problem it was with the spring pin. The opening was at the top and the head was at the bottom. Please confirm that I can rotate the axle to position the spring pin in place for the hammer and punch. In hindsight I should have tried this when I had the car on jacks this morning.

I am the owner of a 1992 Legacy L and I am planning to install a new or remanufactured driveaxle on the front right side. My question for the members, do I need to remove the complete catalytic converter or just the front and how difficult will it be to remove the front or both?