aba4430

To the OP - please refer to this thread for leads. The Brat shocks should still be available from the dealer. I ordered mine a few months ago from these folks. This is the link to the struts on their site. Price is excellent for genuine struts, and they may even waive shipping. Tell them you were referred from this site.

Go with Subaru part or this one. I just replaced mine a couple of months ago with the BA part. It is the Three Five brand from Japan and most likely the original part. Cheaper at RA if shipping does not get you. Brat Ball Joint

Spal fan linked above installed satisfactorily in the Brat. No clearance issues. Fan assembly is sturdy and there is a tad more space between the water pump tip and the back of the fan. Swapped the original connector from the existing fan onto the Spal, using pin terminal removal tools etc. Works very well without any relays added.

If the part-underhood picture depicts your car, then you do not have the three fusible links to start with. That is the box that the auxiliary battery positive cable is connected to. There are three fusible links (short jumpers) that connect to the terminals. This is just a start as stated.

Thread revival - I need to fix the horn on my 87 Brat. Presently, if I press the horn pad it will on occasion blast the horn. I know the horns are OK. However, pressing the horn pad @5 times, it will blast one time, qualitatively. So I have a contact problem. Question, how do I safely remove the horn pad from the steering wheel without breaking it? I do have two screws on the back side of the wheel. I want to clean and lube the contacts as a first shot. The pad has never been removed before. TIA.

You have asked for Hitachi P/N's for 80 to 84's. I can tell you that the manual transmission 85 to 88 2 door hatches and Brats used Hitachi distributor P/N 429878900; autos used 429879100. The coil P/N's are 429887810 for manual transmissions and 429887310 for manual and autos. So I think either coil can be used for the manual's. Note, I have been running a Hitachi CIT-32 (I will check the number again) coil on my 87 Brat since 2012 with no issues. Not sure if these 85 to 88 P/N's are helpful. Separately, AZ has several options for coils, including a couple of NGK's: Ignition Coil Options at AZ Correction to the Hitachi coil P/N I have been using since 2012. I stated above it was CIT-32. It is actually CIT-126.

I am presently in the process of accessory wiring clean-up and will add periodic updates. All I am focusing on are the numerous wires for fog lamps, added relays for headlamps, added door locks, aftermarket stereos/subs, relays for horns. The only original wiring issue I see is associated with the dealer added AC. This too, you can carefully organize a bit better. Other than this, there are no real issues with the organization of the original wiring and No rerouting necessary. Accessory Wiring Clean-Up With Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block

OK, thank you for the clarification.

The bearing was moving in the housing. Did not look OK to me.

Rather than start a new thread, adding to this one. Other than a crimper for open barrel terminals (to construct my own relay sockets), I have the necessary parts for upgrading the wiring of the Hella headlamps on the Brat. My plan is to use 2X Bosch relays with dual #87 terminals. I plan to run relay triggers (#86) from the dimmer switch inside the cab for the lo/Hi and Hi lamps. Question about the ground trigger (#85) on the relays - do I run dual grounds (2X each for the Hi/Low and Hi) from the lamps to terminal 85, after cutting the ground returns from the lamps back to the switch? This means the grounds will not be feeding back to the headlamp switch???? The remaining connections are fine, i.e. fused power from battery to #30 and power out via dual 87 terminals to the lights. TIA.

I relocated my alarm siren from the right side shelf (right of spare tire) to the left front fender area, and installed a 12 position fuse block in the area. Used a galvanized lumbar tie plate from HD, coated it up a bit with primer and black color and mounted it on 4X 1" Nylon spacers. The fuse block is mounted on this plate using 1/4" Nylon spacers and M4 SS hardware. Now, the slow process of cleaning up the accessory wiring begins.

A DOT approved, well designed and adjusted LED is fine. I have factory LED lamps (low's, fogs and the brake lamp) on my Nissan Titan Pro-4X and they are very good. I have the Hella's on the Brat and my goal is to add relays as soon as I receive my terminals. My Hella driving lights are on a relay and plenty bright, but the low and high beams at this point are mediocre. I expect an improvement after the relay upgrade. All remaining external lamps including the turn's on my Brat are Sylvania LED's.

Philips has come out with sealed LED beams for us 4-lampers. Hi Beam Low Beam

They have replaceable H1 (high beam) and H4 (Hi/Lo beam) bulbs.

OK, my vacuum switch checks out OK. However, when I pull vacuum on the diaphragm with a hand pump (loan-a-tool at Autozone) I hear a hissing leak every stroke. I will pull it out and play around with some adjustments, but believe I will have to source a replacement. Any leads (Toyo, Nissan, Mitsu, Suzuki equivalents) appreciated.