aba4430

To the OP - please refer to this thread for leads. The Brat shocks should still be available from the dealer. I ordered mine a few months ago from these folks. This is the link to the struts on their site. Price is excellent for genuine struts, and they may even waive shipping. Tell them you were referred from this site.

Go with Subaru part or this one. I just replaced mine a couple of months ago with the BA part. It is the Three Five brand from Japan and most likely the original part. Cheaper at RA if shipping does not get you. Brat Ball Joint

Spal fan linked above installed satisfactorily in the Brat. No clearance issues. Fan assembly is sturdy and there is a tad more space between the water pump tip and the back of the fan. Swapped the original connector from the existing fan onto the Spal, using pin terminal removal tools etc. Works very well without any relays added.

If the part-underhood picture depicts your car, then you do not have the three fusible links to start with. That is the box that the auxiliary battery positive cable is connected to. There are three fusible links (short jumpers) that connect to the terminals. This is just a start as stated.

Thread revival - I need to fix the horn on my 87 Brat. Presently, if I press the horn pad it will on occasion blast the horn. I know the horns are OK. However, pressing the horn pad @5 times, it will blast one time, qualitatively. So I have a contact problem. Question, how do I safely remove the horn pad from the steering wheel without breaking it? I do have two screws on the back side of the wheel. I want to clean and lube the contacts as a first shot. The pad has never been removed before. TIA.

You have asked for Hitachi P/N's for 80 to 84's. I can tell you that the manual transmission 85 to 88 2 door hatches and Brats used Hitachi distributor P/N 429878900; autos used 429879100. The coil P/N's are 429887810 for manual transmissions and 429887310 for manual and autos. So I think either coil can be used for the manual's. Note, I have been running a Hitachi CIT-32 (I will check the number again) coil on my 87 Brat since 2012 with no issues. Not sure if these 85 to 88 P/N's are helpful. Separately, AZ has several options for coils, including a couple of NGK's: Ignition Coil Options at AZ Correction to the Hitachi coil P/N I have been using since 2012. I stated above it was CIT-32. It is actually CIT-126.

I am presently in the process of accessory wiring clean-up and will add periodic updates. All I am focusing on are the numerous wires for fog lamps, added relays for headlamps, added door locks, aftermarket stereos/subs, relays for horns. The only original wiring issue I see is associated with the dealer added AC. This too, you can carefully organize a bit better. Other than this, there are no real issues with the organization of the original wiring and No rerouting necessary. Accessory Wiring Clean-Up With Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block

OK, thank you for the clarification.

The bearing was moving in the housing. Did not look OK to me.

Rather than start a new thread, adding to this one. Other than a crimper for open barrel terminals (to construct my own relay sockets), I have the necessary parts for upgrading the wiring of the Hella headlamps on the Brat. My plan is to use 2X Bosch relays with dual #87 terminals. I plan to run relay triggers (#86) from the dimmer switch inside the cab for the lo/Hi and Hi lamps. Question about the ground trigger (#85) on the relays - do I run dual grounds (2X each for the Hi/Low and Hi) from the lamps to terminal 85, after cutting the ground returns from the lamps back to the switch? This means the grounds will not be feeding back to the headlamp switch???? The remaining connections are fine, i.e. fused power from battery to #30 and power out via dual 87 terminals to the lights. TIA.

I relocated my alarm siren from the right side shelf (right of spare tire) to the left front fender area, and installed a 12 position fuse block in the area. Used a galvanized lumbar tie plate from HD, coated it up a bit with primer and black color and mounted it on 4X 1" Nylon spacers. The fuse block is mounted on this plate using 1/4" Nylon spacers and M4 SS hardware. Now, the slow process of cleaning up the accessory wiring begins.

A DOT approved, well designed and adjusted LED is fine. I have factory LED lamps (low's, fogs and the brake lamp) on my Nissan Titan Pro-4X and they are very good. I have the Hella's on the Brat and my goal is to add relays as soon as I receive my terminals. My Hella driving lights are on a relay and plenty bright, but the low and high beams at this point are mediocre. I expect an improvement after the relay upgrade. All remaining external lamps including the turn's on my Brat are Sylvania LED's.

Philips has come out with sealed LED beams for us 4-lampers. Hi Beam Low Beam

They have replaceable H1 (high beam) and H4 (Hi/Lo beam) bulbs.

OK, my vacuum switch checks out OK. However, when I pull vacuum on the diaphragm with a hand pump (loan-a-tool at Autozone) I hear a hissing leak every stroke. I will pull it out and play around with some adjustments, but believe I will have to source a replacement. Any leads (Toyo, Nissan, Mitsu, Suzuki equivalents) appreciated.

You received the single low/Hi beams with the H4 bulbs. The part number for the kit with two lamps etc. is 003177801. The lamp assemblies with P/N's 003177801 and 003177001are equivalent.

Here is a decent troubleshooting guide from Auckland. Testing Vacuum Solenoid Valve

Thank you DaveT and Bennie. Will troubleshoot and provide an update.

The idle up system has not been functional on my 87 Brat since the day I bought it in 1993 with @63K miles; has 145K miles now. It has the dealer installed AC setup with the idle up vacuum motor mounted with three relays on the right strut mount. If I remember correctly, one of the tubes to the idle up motor was connected to the vacuum line going into the firewall via a Y-connector (there may be a check valve to this line as well). However, I am not sure, it has been several years since I took the Y connector off etc. I need to hook the vacuum motor back up and get the idle speed compensated when the AC runs. Would someone have the plumbing diagram for the vacuum motor connections. My vacuum motor and/or the diaphragm (with an arm that pulls the throttle when the AC is turned on) might also be bad, and I will have to source these components as necessary. However, I want to plumb everything correctly and test it out prior to throwing new parts blindly. TIA. PS. Is there a simple way to check the vacuum motor?

Thread resurrect: OK, so I have lived with the low reading voltage gauge for years, but it is bugging me now and I need to make some extra effort to fix it. I have been doing several other fixes to the Brat, and why not tackle this nagging issue once and for all. I will clean up the mounting contacts and have also read that there may be an unconnected ground under the dash. However, several past half hearted attempts have failed to find this elusive ground wire. Any further obvious leads I need to pursue, other than cleaning up mounting contacts for the gauges and general wire troubleshooting.

I received my relays, blocks and wiring over the past few days and am now waiting for the block terminals to arrive. The relays and blocks are Bosch, wiring is Ancor and terminals are Hella. I will be adding relays to my headlamps and have added some trivial relay sourcing information here: 1. You can get these relays at a decent price from FCP Euro. The two types I obtained are: Bosch Multipurpose Relay Bosch relay with dual 87 terminals 2. The blocks are: Bosch relay block Will be making my own wired blocks. The relay with dual 87 terminals will be used for the headlamps and possibly replacement horns (?). The multipurpose relays will be used for other general upgrades and or replacements. I have already replaced my under dash single and three under hood original gold toned AC relay's with the multipurpose ones. Have also received an 11" Spal fan as replacement for my aux fan that has been making terrible noises occasionally. Will need to figure out how to wire this with a relay. I believe the auxiliary fan may already take power from the battery via the under hood relay(s). Spal 30100411 Will update suitably.

That wagon is in great shape. I remember buying those Premier? alloy wheels from Boomershine Subaru in Atlanta in the late 80's, for my 81 GL hatchback (FWD, EA81). I wish I had taken the wheels off the car prior to selling it at @165K miles in the early 2000's. My Brat would be wearing them now.

A little positive color contrast under the hood also adds some power. Every little bit helps.

Resurrection of a slightly older thread - My Brat behaves in this manner. When the headlamps are on, the aux fan does not work. I thought something was amiss with it, but if this is normal, I am good. Separately, I have been scanning fan related threads as my aux fan is getting ready to quit. I picked up this fan as a replacement. Am awaiting some relays, sockets and wires to be delivered and will install.

So I was tired of just laying my hood support rod flat as my holder was broken. It has been like this for the past few years. The P/N for the holder is 657214080; it is still available and is under a buck at SPFY. However, it is one of the newest parts on my Brat. Simple things such as these parts can add a few horsepower to the older Subaru's and a bunch of 's. Please disregard the dirty engine compartment. I need to clean it up well.